6 hours ago
2
The hotel
Borneta, Barcelona, Spain
Check-in
Borneta Barcelona’s convivial rooftop terrace and swimming pool.
Few cities have suffered more from overtourism than Barcelona, with even fewer having mounted such an aggressive campaign to fight it. So, after an absence of more than a decade, I arrive with a sneaking apprehension at the reception I may receive. Luckily, I’m here in the low season when tensions over tourists are more muted, yet from the cordial airport cabbie to the affable hotel reception staff, I needn’t have worried. Suddenly, the prospect of my two-night stay at the 92-room boutique Borneta Barcelona is looking much brighter, especially since the hotel is situated in El Born, an up-and-coming barrio, or neighbourhood. Its time has truly come.
The look
The light-filled terrace.
Fashioned by the London design-based house Thurstan, Borneta Barcelona is entered through the imposing Porxos de Fontsere collonades which extend handsomely along Passeig de Picasso (ring a bell)? Here you’re right opposite Parc de la Ciutadella, a major urban green lung hosting the city’s zoo and the Catalan parliament. Inside Borneta Barcelona, virtually the entire ground floor is consumed by a thoughtfully designed and furnished restaurant, bar and commodious guest lounge where the emphasis is commendably as much on comfort and relaxation as it is on an abundance of style.
The room
Borneta Barcelona Hotel… light-filled, unlike a lot of other boutique hotels.
My 28-square-metre fifth floor junior suite has direct access to the hotel’s compact but convivial rooftop terrace and swimming pool which overlooks the public park and the city beyond. This suite features its own private terrace with an outdoor shower and urban vistas, including that of Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar, an example of Catalan Gothic architecture which provided inspiration for Antoni Gaudi’s more famous Sagrada Familia, a 15-minute ride by taxi from the hotel. The inviting but unpretentious room is decked out in warm accents designed to reflect the earthy palette of Barcelona itself. Unlike so many boutique hotels nowadays, it’s light-filled with the interiors designed to not only impress but provide genuine comfort.
Food + drink
Eat in at least once at Volta.
Cal Pep, Barcelona’s celebrated tapas diner, is only a five-minute walk from the hotel, but due to its popularity, it can be subject to queues, especially for the coveted counter spots. But to savour more contemporary Spanish cuisine you really needn’t leave the hotel. Its in-house Volta restaurant and bar serves creative, share-based Mediterranean dishes featuring the best of the region’s superb local ingredients from small-scale artisan producers.
Out + about
Exceptional local produce.
Even though this is an area less troubled by the tourist throng than other Barcelona barrio, many of the city’s leading attractions are easily reached from El Born and the hotel itself. Head along its narrow, boutique and gallery-filled streets to Museu Picasso, known for the early works of the legendary Spanish artist. Further along is the floridly decorated concert hall, Palau de la Musica Catalana, an art nouveau architectural masterpiece. Elsewhere, take a meander through the bustling Mercat de Santa Caterina with its bold swirling modern-day roof addition daubed in the colours of the produce on sale inside.
The verdict
An abundance of style care of London design-based house Thurstan.
If your aim is to be in the action in Barcelona but not held captive of it, then this beauteously boutique bolthole with a deceptively appealing location is a smart choice in an oft crowded Catalan capital.
Essentials
From $385 for a classic room (low season); Borneta Barcelona, Passeig de Picasso, 26, 30, Ciutat Vella, Barcelona, Spain. Phone: +34 935 47 86 00. See miirohotels.com
Our rating out of five
★★★★½
Highlight
El Born is a beauty; a distant, though not too distant, alternative to a busier Barcelona barrio such as the all-too-popular Las Ramblas.
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Lowlight
It can be difficult, especially for the jet-lagged, to stay awake long enough for Barcelona’s night owl dining hours, so don’t be coy about making your main meal a daytime affair.
The writer stayed as a guest of the hotel and travelled courtesy of Viking Cruises and Etihad Airways. See vikingcruises.com.au; etihad.com
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