When it comes to great food, New Zealand is cutting Australia’s lunch

“This is like mana for our industry,” says Ben Bayly in between mouthfuls of paua, New Zealand abalone, which here at Bayly’s flagship Auckland restaurant Ahi has been braised, served with a paua emulsion and topped with crisp shards of kumara.

We’re dining together and discussing the Kiwi food scene, in particular the impending arrival of the iconic Michelin Guide. Mana, Bayly explains, is a Maori word that means authority, power, influence, prestige. It’s a spiritual thing, deeply revered in its homeland, sought after and respected.

And that, according to Bayly, one of New Zealand’s leading chefs, is what the Michelin Guide will bring to the local culinary scene: authority, power, influence, respect. Mana.

There may have been some head-scratching on the Australian side of the ditch when Michelin’s arrival was announced by the Kiwis late last year. New Zealand getting Michelin? Is that like Saudi Arabia getting a cocktail bar guide?

But those who have been to New Zealand in the last, say, 10 years would have understood immediately why the nation’s government elected to spend an estimated $A5.5 million to have Michelin, the world’s most respected food guide, come to cover restaurants in Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown, after Tourism Australia passed up the chance (at a much higher cost).

There’s something exciting going on in the NZ food scene, as a wave of talented chefs and cooks harness the high-quality produce this land boasts thanks to its deep seas, its volcanic soils, its sunshine and rain.

In just a few months, New Zealand will have Michelin stars. How many, and for whom, we don’t know yet. But it’s an exciting time for the country and its cooks, and just reward for talent and toil.

“For so long our cooking was just about feeding the machine before you go to bed,” Bayly says. “No one had given it much thought. But this generation that’s here now, Henry [Onesemo], Jack [Cashmore], Vaughan [Mabee], they don’t know it, but they are the giant shoulders that people will be standing on. In 100 years, people will be looking back on these guys like the Auguste Escoffiers, but in a humble Kiwi way.

“And having the Michelin Guide come here is a stepping stone in that, a pivotal stepping stone. It’s our government saying, you guys deserve to be seen. You guys are an important part of our economy. You guys are part of our national identity.”

Over on Waiheke Island, fellow Kiwi chef Josh Emett, who is familiar with the Michelin system after 10 years working in Europe and the US with Gordon Ramsay, says the guide will give a huge boost to the local scene.

“For New Zealand, you need to be part of that global conversation,” he says. “Otherwise it’s like having the Olympic Games and gold medals, which is the pinnacle for sports, but your country is not allowed to enter. You know, you can be New Zealand champion, but …”

You may be wondering, okay, so what is New Zealand cuisine? And unfortunately, the answer is that there is no good answer. New Zealand food isn’t a set of famous dishes, it’s not a defined group of ingredients or even an established flavour profile. And the country’s best-known chefs aren’t comfortable attempting a description.

“Do we really have to force it?” asks Emett. “Do we have to really define it? Because it’s not a five-year plan. It’s a 150-year plan. It will evolve over time.

“New Zealand’s got an incredible food scene, and it’s extremely seasonal. And the produce is great. But when I go to Australia, I don’t obsess over finding Australian cuisine. I go and eat in great restaurants. Australia and New Zealand have a similar problem, where we can’t – and we shouldn’t have to – define what it is we do.”

Over at Ahi, Bayly agrees. “It’s a hard thing to do, to define a cuisine,” he says. “I think the question of what is New Zealand food will be answered in 50 or 100 years.

“It’s my opinion – but I’m 100 per cent right – that our national dish is the hangi. I want that for the record. I want that written in our parliament. I want every single tourist to come here and experience a hangi.”

With Michelin on its way, now is the perfect time to turn your attention to the Kiwi food scene and discover hangis (ground ovens), and everything else that makes this country’s cuisine so great.

Below are eight of our favourite regions for dining and drinking, featuring foodie experiences on par with any nation. Because New Zealand is a serious food destination, and it’s open for bookings.

AUCKLAND AND WAIHEKE ISLAND, NORTH ISLAND

Why go

New Zealand’s largest city is foodie central, and where you will find the country’s best-known chefs and top-end cuisine. Auckland is richly diverse, with everything from night markets featuring affordable Pasifika cuisine, to neighbourhood bistros and Euro-style wine bars the likes of Grey Lynn, Mount Eden and Parnell, to hotels with excellent restaurants such as Britomart and the Viaduct. Meanwhile, a 40-minute ferry ride will take you to Waiheke Island, a wonderland of produce, an outcrop filled with wineries, distilleries, breweries, fine-dining restaurants and casual eateries.

Eat + drink

In Auckland, don’t miss the gloriously blistered pizzas at Oohfa (oohfa.co.nz), the well-executed Italian at Pici (picipasta.co.nz), the wine-bar goodness of Apero (apero.co.nz), and the considered charm of Alma (alma.nz), Gilt (giltbrasserie.nz), Esther (estherrestaurant.com), Hello Beasty (hellobeasty.nz), and Ahi (ahirestaurant.co.nz). In Waiheke, check out Josh Emett’s Oyster Inn (theoysterinn.co.nz), sip whisky at the Heke (theheke.co.nz), and go all out at Mudbrick (mudbrick.co.nz).

Don’t miss

If you visit a lot of fine-dining restaurants, you may be jaded with chefs telling you their whole life story. Like, just feed me guys. But then you meet Henry Onesemo, a largely self-taught Samoan chef who reinterprets the food and experiences of his childhood through a fine-dining lens at his Parnell restaurant Tala (tala.co.nz). The result is warm, charming, enthralling, and ultimately delicious. A truly outstanding dining and cultural experience.

Make it happen

Air New Zealand (airnewzealand.com.au) flies from Australian ports direct to Auckland, which is a true year-round destination. Stay at the QT (qthotels.com).

HAWKE’S BAY, NORTH ISLAND

Why go

There are two sides to Hawke’s Bay: the urban landscape, dominated by Napier, Hastings and Havelock North, all of which boast great places to eat; then there is a slew of high-end wineries to visit (Hawke’s Bay is known for reds, though there are excellent whites appearing), many of which have restaurants on site.

Eat + drink

Napier and Hastings have regular farmers’ markets, and both towns have great coffee (as does Havelock North, at St Martha). For fancier dining, in Napier check out Bistronomy & Vinotech (bistronomy.co.nz), or the stylish Central Fire Station Bistro (centralfirestation.co.nz), and in Hastings, Restaurant Ari (restaurantari.co.nz) has made a splash since opening. The wineries include Swift Wines (swiftwines.co.nz), which has a friendly new cellar door; Trinity Hill (trinityhill.com) does good syrah; Linden Estate (lindenestatewinery.co.nz) is perennially popular; and Mission Estate (missionestate.co.nz) just celebrated its 175th anniversary.

Don’t miss

The Craggy Range winery (craggyrange.com) boasts not only the best restaurant in Hawke’s Bay, but one of the best in New Zealand. Craggy Range holds three chef’s hats, NZ’s (current) highest honour, and was awarded Winery Restaurant of the Year by Cuisine magazine in 2025. The food is superb, the views stunning, and of course, the wine beautiful.

Make it happen

Napier is a one-hour flight from Auckland, or a five-hour drive. Hawke’s Bay is great year-round, though autumn and spring are especially lovely. Stay at the art deco Masonic Hotel in Napier (masonic.co.nz).

WAIKATO, MANAWATU-WHANGANUI, NORTH ISLAND

Why go

There’s a wild, elemental land in the middle of New Zealand’s North Island, a place of volcanos and rugged plains, of steep hills and vast lakes. The best food here comes, as it should, from that wild land, from the rivers and lakes and pastures and forests, cooked by a handful of talented chefs, one of who is taking Kiwi dining to new heights.

Eat + drink

In Taupo, upon the eponymous lake in the Waikato region, head directly to Embra (embra.nz), chef Phill Blackburne’s intimate fine-diner that’s leading the way with thoughtful local cuisine. Nearby, luxury lodges such as Huka (hukalodge.com) and Poronui (poronui.com) have private chefs cooking up some good fare. Further south of Taupo, in the town of Ohakune, near Mount Ruapehu, Magic Chilli (magicchilliohakune.co.nz) does a fine curry – though trust us, the best is yet to come.

Don’t miss

The Chef’s Table at Blue Duck Station (thechefstable.co.nz) in the neighbouring Manawatu-Whanganui region, has no right to exist. It’s like a kiwi (the bird): it makes no sense. How is there an exclusive 10-seat fine-dining restaurant perched on a mountaintop in the middle of nowhere, and how is it this good? That probably comes down to the skill of British chef Jack Cashmore, who has created a restaurant that’s only open for four dinners a week, is only accessible via mud-splattered ATV, and is stunningly successful. This will be the highlight of your trip.

Make it happen

Air New Zealand flies from Auckland to Taupo; from there, it’s a 2.5-hour drive to Blue Duck Station. This area is open year-round, though the Chef’s Table closes during winter. Stay at the Suncourt Hotel in Taupo (suncourt.nz).

WELLINGTON, NORTH ISLAND

Why go

Only one Kiwi city can mount a true challenge to Auckland’s gastronomic dominance, and that’s the capital, Wellington. The food scene here is dynamic and diverse, where cosy neighbourhood bistros sit across from industry-leading breweries; where cocktail bars abut fine-dining restaurants, and where chefs take sustainability and ethical dining seriously. Wellington also has great cafés.

Eat + drink

Rita (rita.co.nz) is the restaurant everyone wants in their neighbourhood: it’s small, cosy, friendly, and the kitchen only serves a set three-course menu every night, meaning you don’t have to make any decisions and will always be well-fed on seasonal ingredients. Garage Project (garageproject.co.nz) is right across the road. Elsewhere, Jano Bistro (janobistro.co.nz) creates elegant tasting menus, Ortega Fish Shack (ortega.co.nz) is a much-loved seafood joint, and at Hillside Kitchen (hillsidekitchen.co.nz), chef Asher Boote creates meat-free menus of foraged and home-grown ingredients.

Don’t miss

Up in the hills of Kelburn at Graze (grazewinebar.co.nz), chef Max Gordy is also working hard on ethical cuisine, buying only local ingredients, cutting waste to a minimum and even fitting out the restaurant with second-hand appliances and furniture. Impressive stuff, but even more impressive is how tasty his food is.

Make it happen

Air New Zealand and Qantas (qantas.com) fly direct from Australia’s east coast to Wellington. The Windy City is best from September to May (skip winter). Stay at the Intrepid Hotel (theintrepidhotel.com).

MARLBOROUGH, SOUTH ISLAND

Why go

If you have ever, in your entire life, considered drinking sauvignon blanc, then you know about Marlborough. This wine region, on the northern end of the South Island, is synonymous with that white grape varietal, a global brand that is the envy of marketing departments around the world. Marlborough has much more going for it, however, than mass-produced savvy B. This is a relatively quiet, friendly place with boutique wineries to balance out the big players, not to mention restaurants and bistros making use of high-quality local produce.

Eat + drink

Arbour Restaurant (arbour.co.nz), in Blenheim, is what Kiwi fine dining is all about: high-end food cooked with skill but served in a way that’s casual and friendly. While you’re in the area, don’t miss Harvest (harvestrestaurant.co.nz), with its focus on local produce, call into the Mussel Pot (themusselpot.co.nz) to try the region’s green-lipped mussels, and check out Number 11 Restaurant at Wairau River (wairauriverwines.com).

Don’t miss

Steer clear of the wine-producing behemoths in Marlborough and check out some of the amazing boutique producers. Organic small-batch producer Hans Herzog Estate (herzog.co.nz) is probably the best of them, though make time to visit Te Whare Ra (twrwines.co.nz) and Clos Henri (closhenri.com). And don’t forget Elemental Distillers (rootsdrygin.com), which makes award-winning gin.

Make it happen

Marlborough is accessible by air from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, or take the ferry from Wellington. The region is open year-round, though looks best in autumn. Stay at the Peppertree (thepeppertree.co.nz).

QUEENSTOWN, OTAGO, SOUTH ISLAND

Why go

Many Australians would be familiar with Queenstown, having been drawn by the adventure sports and natural beauty. But Queenstown is also a culinary hub, the home of perhaps New Zealand’s most exciting avant-garde restaurant, not to mention its best-loved burger joint. Nearby you will also find one of NZ’s key wine regions, Central Otago, a producer of world-renowned pinot noir.

Eat+ drink

In Queenstown and surrounding villages such as historic Arrowtown there’s a huge spread of dining and drinking establishments that cater to many budgets and tastes. If you’re after fine-dining, check out The Bunker (thebunker.co.nz), or Nest (nestqt.co.nz), which combines good food with spectacular views. Blue Kanu (bluekanu.co.nz) is popular for its Polynesian-Asian fusion, while Fergburger (fergburger.com) is an icon for a reason. In Central Otago, call into the cellar doors at Felton Road (feltonroad.com), Chard Farm (chardfarm.co.nz) and Mt Difficulty (mtdifficulty.nz). Elsewhere in Otago, Moiety (moiety.restaurant) does excellent, high-end dining in Dunedin.

Don’t miss

The table booking every foodie in New Zealand wants to score is at Amisfield (amisfield.co.nz). This winery-restaurant, run by chef Vaughan Mabee, has three hats from Cuisine magazine and is ranked No.99 by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants; it’s sure to attract the attention of Michelin judges. What you can expect here is a meal like no other – playful yet skilful, high-concept yet sustainable.

Make it happen

Air New Zealand and Qantas fly direct from Australia’s east coast to Queenstown. The city is most popular in winter, though has a lot to offer in the warmer months. Stay at the Carlin Boutique Hotel (thecarlinhotel.com).

CHRISTCHURCH, CANTERBURY, SOUTH ISLAND

Why go

Christchurch’s rebuilding after the 2011 earthquake was more of a reimagining, and the city these days is a pleasure to explore, a place where art and creativity takes centre stage, and the culinary scene thrives. In the wider Canterbury area, there’s also a fine-dining highlight in sleepy Lyttelton, locavore cookery in Kaikoura, and underrated wine from the North Canterbury region.

Eat + drink

Maori guide Riwai Grace blends traditional stories with modern-day fare on a cultural food tour with Amiki (amikitours.com). It’s one of the best ways to get to know Christchurch. Next, check out high-end offerings at Inati Restaurant (inati.nz), wander Riverside Market and do a wine tasting at Cellar Door (cellardoor.nz) before casting your net – so to speak – further afield, with a “catch and cook” experience at Hapuku Kitchen in Kaikoura (hapukukitchen.co.nz). Finally, call into the legendary Kaikoura Seafood BBQ Kiosk for grilled lobster.

Don’t miss

Mapu Test Kitchen (mapu.co.nz) in Lyttelton is not a normal restaurant: it has no set opening hours, no menu and no wine list. Diners can buy a ticket for one of six seats around chef Giulio Sturla’s kitchen and watch as he prepares amazing meals using local, seasonal, sustainable produce. It’s a privilege to be involved.

Make it happen

Air New Zealand and Qantas fly direct from the east coast to Christchurch. The city is great year-round. Stay at the Observatory Hotel (observatoryhotel.co.nz).

SOUTHLAND, SOUTH ISLAND

Why go

If you haven’t tasted “Southland sushi” you haven’t lived. But we’ll get to that. Like Ruapehu, this is a wild and elemental region at the far south of the South Island, buffeted by Antarctic winds and cold ocean swells. In cities such as Dunedin and Invercargill, and inland Te Anau, you will find cooks making using local produce such as Bluff oysters, whitebait and salmon in a range of warm, friendly venues.

Eat + drink

Southland sushi is the somewhat ironic nickname given to cheese rolls, a classic Southland snack of bread slathered in a mix of cheese, mustard and onion-soup powder, rolled up, skewered and grilled. Find it in its heartland at various Invercargill bakeries. Elsewhere, the Fat Duck in Te Anau (thefatduck.co.nz) is an award-winning gastropub.

Don’t miss

Bluff oysters are famous around the world: they’re native, flat oysters harvested from the cold waters of Foveaux Strait, known for their creamy, briny flavour. The Bluff oyster season runs from March to August, though May, when the Bluff Oyster Festival is held in the town of Bluff, is the best time to sample them.

Make it happen

Air New Zealand has flights from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch to Dunedin. Best time to visit is in the warmer months, or May for the oyster festival. In Te Anau, stay at Lakefront Lodge (lakefrontlodgeteanau.com).

The writer has visited New Zealand with assistance from Tourism New Zealand. See newzealand.com

FIVE UNDERRATED KIWI REGIONS FOR FOOD AND WINE

Wairarapa, North Island

The wine region, just north of Wellington, has similar terroir to Burgundy in France, and as such produces world-class pinot noir and chardonnay. This is a small and often overlooked area that’s centred around the town of Martinborough, which provides walking-distance access to numerous wineries.

Gisborne, North Island

North of Hawke’s Bay, Gisborne is an easy-going coastal city with surf beaches, dive sites and strong links to Maori culture. There’s also high-quality wine made in the surrounding countryside, and plenty of restaurants in town at which to enjoy food and wine. Try Flagship Eatery (flagshipeatery.co.nz) and Neighbourhood Pizzeria (neighbourhoodpizzeria.co.nz).

Waipara Valley, South Island

Here’s another criminally underrated Kiwi wine region: Waipara Valley, part of the wider North Canterbury region, home to talented winemakers and untapped terroir. Black Estate (blackestate.co.nz) is perhaps the standout, a biodynamic winery with an award-winning restaurant, though Greystone (greystonewines.co.nz) and Pegasus Bay (pegasusbay.com), among others, are also great.

Nelson, South Island

Across from Marlborough, at the top of the South Island, Nelson has no shortage of high-quality fresh produce, and cooks who know what to do with it. Check out Arden (arden.nz), with its contemporary food and wine, Hopgoods (hopgoods.co.nz) for bistro-style fare, and New Asia for excellent Chinese.

Bay of Plenty, North Island

If you want to understand and experience Maori cuisine in New Zealand, the Bay of Plenty, the region to the east of Auckland, is the place. In Rotorua, head to one of many Maori cultural centres for a traditional hangi. In Mount Manganui, try Solera (solera.nz) for fine dining and Izakai (izakai.co.nz) for Kiwi-style Japanese.