This Aussie ‘space-ship’ is the definition of smooth sailing

The ship: Scenic Pearl

• Commissioned 2011, refurbished 2019
• Suites 80
• Passengers 159
• Crew 56
• Decks Four
• Length 135 metres
• The cruise Highlights of the Rhine and Moselle rivers in France, Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands, 14 nights and 15 days

Scenic Pearl is one of 12 “space-ships” in Scenic’s European river cruise fleet (not an extra-terrestrial reference, “space” refers to its roomy cabins and public spaces). The ship was commissioned in 2011, then had a significant refurbishment in 2019. Six years on, it still looks polished. There’s a strong Australian contingent among the passengers, as well as many passengers from the UK and Canada. Apart from one or two multi-generational groups, most of the passengers are aged 50-plus.

Boarding

Embarkation in Basel is seamless. We’re transferred from the old-school luxury of the Schweizerhof Hotel opposite Zurich’s Hauptbahnhof by coach and just over an hour later we arrive at Dreiländereck dock, near Basel’s city centre. There’s a short queue at reception for check-in or the option of a casual lunch in the Panorama Lounge Bar for those happy to wait. As usual, I’m in a hurry to see my room, so I decide to wait in line. Five minutes later, Bobby, my private butler for the duration of the cruise, is accompanying me there. It’s all so smooth and soon after, I’m having lunch in the bar.

The design

The ship’s style is laid-back luxury with a focus on quality and comfort, with just a little touch of bling. In the suites, that means chic tones of black, grey and white matched with timber finishes and glossy marble. In the public spaces, an attention-grabbing marble reception desk, and more marble in the bar and dining room add to the conventional contemporary styling.

The spaces

Like all ships navigating the Rhine’s many locks, the ship is narrow and flat, taking its cue from the shape of the barges transporting cargo along the river. Fortunately, that’s where the cargo comparison ends. Inside, the hotel-style dining room, bar and reception feel welcoming. The Panorama deck is a favourite spot, a small, sheltered outdoor space that’s perfect for a pre-dinner wine or an afternoon coffee. For those who enjoy unobstructed views, the sun deck hits the spot.

The balcony suite

My balcony suite is only 19 square metres, yet feels surprisingly spacious. I have a queen bed, a generous wardrobe with a safe and a complimentary mini-bar stocked with beer, wine, spirits, mineral water and juice. There’s also a charging station for the ship’s audio guide equipment, Australian and European power outlets and a stash of complimentary crisps and chocolate wafers.

Once I’ve unpacked, my suitcase slides easily under the bed. A cleverly designed narrow granite bench at the door is the perfect place to drop my room card, sunglasses and other bits and pieces. The bench then curves out to become a narrow desk space with a chair tucked underneath. Sliding doors open to the narrow balcony (just wide enough for two chairs and a small table) that can be fully enclosed or, at the press of a button, opened to the elements.

The bathroom is impressive, with a roomy shower space, storage, high-end toiletries and two luxurious robes. A smart TV shares itinerary updates and ship news, but after day two refuses to update, so I find out what I need to know the old-fashioned way, with a hard copy or by asking at reception.

The food

The main dining room, Crystal Dining, has buffet and a la carte options at every sitting and the menu is designed to cater for a range of preferences and allergies. As a pescatarian, I’m well looked after with DIY salads, cheeses, excellent breads and a vegetarian and fish option at every sitting. That’s an achievement in a menu that tries to offer a local element, considering the Germanic love of pork, sausages and bacon.

Given the limited selection of public spaces on the ship, every effort is made to vary the dining options. For early risers, the Panorama Lounge has all-day tea, coffee and pastries, or you can order breakfast in your room. The River Cafe (part of The Panorama Lounge) has a small selection of snack foods such as cakes, sandwiches and savoury pastries all day.

Diamond deck passengers are entitled to an exclusive fine-dining experience at La Rive during their cruise. A separate space in Crystal Dining, the multi-course meal comes with silver service, wine matching and food delivered with a flourish. Passengers can also book a table at Portobello Dining, an Italian-ish experience on the Diamond Deck. The change of dining settings is welcome, but the food is still coming from the same kitchen and it shows.

Wellness

Scenic Pearl manages to squeeze in a surprisingly diverse choice of wellness options, including a small gym with weights and treadmills, an outdoor walking track, spa treatments, and a serene salt therapy lounge, where the temperature- and humidity-controlled room lined with salt bricks is a relaxing place, with claimed benefits for your respiratory and immune systems. I try all the options except the spa treatments on my first day, then revert to my usual slothful habits. Stretches at 7am also sound delightful, but the appeal of a lie-in followed by an espresso and breakfast is stronger.

Entertainment

The ship’s Panorama Lounge offers after-dinner entertainment ranging from trivia to dancing and guest performances, including the chirpy Swiss duo enthusiastically demonstrating the art of cowbell ringing (to the complete bafflement of one or two passengers). Interesting history and itinerary-related talks, wine tasting and a strudel-making demonstration round out the on-board offerings.

The crew

How do crew members stay so upbeat? The crew are universally helpful, friendly and attentive, so much so I become self-conscious about the state of my cabin, knowing that the minute I step out, someone will be in to tighten a sheet, hang up my robe or leave a chocolate on my pillow.

The verdict

Scenic has a loyal following for good reason. It gets all the basics right. A reliable option in the highly competitive European luxury river cruising market, its “space-ships” offer roomy cabins, well-considered itineraries and excursions, excellent staff and service and an all-inclusive price that makes the cruising experience stress-free. Although the ship lacks some of the amenities of other river cruise vessels (even in Scenic’s own fleet), you’ll likely only notice their absence in bad weather (which is a good excuse to settle into your cabin and make use of room service).

The details

Scenic’s 15-day Romantic Rhine and Moselle rivers cruise between Basel and Amsterdam costs from $6995 a person for 2026 departures. The cruise includes visits to Colmar and Strasbourg in France, Trier, Koblenz, Dusseldorf, Rudesheim am Rhein and Cochem in Germany, Antwerp in Belgium, and Veere, Utrecht and Nijmegen in the Netherlands. Phone 1300 413 245; see scenic.com.au

Our rating out of five

★★★★

Swell

Scenic’s included excursions are well-chosen, led by well-informed and engaging guides, and make every effort to be accessible for all abilities.

Not so swell

Outside set meal times, snacking options are limited to a small selection of hors d’oeuvre, sandwiches and cakes, and the menus start to feel repetitive after a few days.

The writer travelled as a guest of Scenic.

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