Port guide: Edinburgh, UK

Scotland’s capital is quirky, history-filled and austerely beautiful, but you’ll have to plan ahead to make the most of your cruise time.

Who goes there

Although not a key European port, plenty of cruise lines call into Edinburgh during British Isles cruises and wider itineraries that connect to Iceland in the one direction and Norway (often via the Shetland and Orkney islands) in the other. Among them are Azamara, Holland America, MSC, Norwegian, Ponant, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas and Viking.

Sail on in

The Firth of Forth is a deep indentation into the east Scottish coast, but wide enough to rob you of great views. You’ll be able to spot the silhouette of crag-perched Edinburgh Castle as you get closer. On a big ship, you’ll sail past Edinburgh itself and get a great view of the iconic red cantilevered Forth Bridge, an engineering feat of the Victorian era that is now World Heritage listed.

Berth rites

It’s complicated, with various cruise ports on the Firth of Forth used by various ships depending on their size. The most convenient is Leith or adjacent Newhaven, which are Edinburgh suburbs. Big ships tender you ashore at South Queensferry 15 kilometres away, while others dock at Rosyth (24 kilometres) on the other side of the Forth Bridge, both inconvenient unless you’re on a shore excursion.

Going ashore

The old town between castle and Holyrood Palace, linked by the Royal Mile, is thick with the history of beheaded queens, body snatchers, witches and literary greats, but its once brooding atmosphere has been banished by tourist hordes. Elsewhere, check out the National Museum of Scotland and National Galleries, which hold works by the European greats but have a particularly interesting section on Scottish painters. The Georgian “new” town features trim townhouses built around quiet squares. The Royal Botanic Garden is one of Europe’s best, especially during rhododendron season.

Don’t miss

Edinburgh Castle is one of Britain’s most-visited tourist attractions. It dominates the city from atop a sheer rock that is the remains of an ancient volcano. The oldest part of the castle is the 12th-century Chapel of St Margaret. The remainder dates mostly from the 16th and 17th centuries and includes the former parliament house, a splendid timbered hall, and an exhibition of the Scottish crown jewels. At 1pm daily, a gun is fired from the battlements.

Get active

Cycling is best beyond the city centre, with pathways running along disused railway lines and the Union Canal; the cycle path between Leith and old-fashioned seaside resort Portobello is particularly good. Walkers should head along Water of Leith Walkway, with rugged outcrop Arthur’s Seat a more lung-challenging alternative that rewards you with terrific views over the city and Firth of Forth.

Retail therapy

Princes Street is the city’s main shopping drag and, as a bonus, adjoins Princes Street Gardens and has marvellous views towards the old town and castle. You’ll find many big high-street shops and the St James Quarter shopping centre. Head to George Street and William Street for a more boutique experience, and Stockbridge for quirky independent shops.

Further afield

At the historic port of Leith – which has a trendy revamped waterfront – you can clamber aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia for a stickybeak at this iconic vessel. Linlithgow, 30 kilometres away, has an old high street, medieval church, Victorian-era canal and the picturesque loch-side ruins of the royal palace in which Mary Queen of Scots was born. Excursions might also take you to St Andrews for a round of golf, Stirling Castle, the National Museum of Flight (which features a Concorde), or the picturesque Trossachs hills and lochs.

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