On this 16-hour Qantas flight, is the upgrade worth it?

The airline: Qantas

• Route Paris to Perth QF34
• Frequency Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday
• Aircraft Boeing 787-9
• Class Business, seat 10A
• Flight time 16 hours, 20 minutes

Checking in

For a year now, the Qantas 787-9 Dreamliner has been flying between Perth and Paris. On a, for me, unprecedented business-class flight, I am curious about two things: is the upgrade worth the extra thousands of dollars (or points), and can I bear flying such a long leg, non-stop? At the start, I am sceptical.

I do enjoy the airport experience though: priority check-in and boarding at Charles de Gaulle are both swift and painless, as is entrance to the American Airlines lounge, available to Qantas business travellers.

Baggage

Two pieces of up to 40 kilograms total, with the maximum single piece of 32 kilograms. Carry on is one bag of up to 10 kilograms, or two smaller bags combining to make 14 kilograms.

The loyalty scheme

At the time of writing, eligible Qantas Frequent Flyer members can earn up to 30,600 points and 510 status credits in business class (return); return flights are 707,200 points plus $1496 in taxes and charges (plus the challenge of finding a seat), and upgrading from economy to business is 130,800 points each way. Points required and taxes, fees and carrier charges are subject to change.

The seat

Business class seats in the main cabin on the Dreamliner are in a 1-2-1 arrangement, all facing forward. I am in row 10A, a window seat. Awaiting me is a fluffy white pillow, a mattress-topper, some Qantas pyjamas, a large blanket and a little canvas pouch full of goodies. The seat sports charging ports and ample storage as well as multiple nooks to tuck books and laptops. A huge step up from economy.

My aim is to sleep as much as possible – I have a big day on my return – so I test the easy-to-use recliner facility. Seat width is between 23 and 24 inches (58-61 centimetres), and converts to a flat-bed with a width of 24-25 inches (61-63.5 centimetres) and length of 80 inches (203 centimetres). At 181 centimetres tall, I am comfortably accommodated. My travelling companions are split on whether to change into the pyjamas at takeoff, or after the meal service. I choose bedtime – no regrets – then discover how truly opulent the mattress topper is. Highly recommended.

Food

With more time aloft, the main meal is served a few hours after takeoff and, to business passengers, in three distinct courses. I choose the Asian-style salmon salad entree, with big, satisfying chunks of salmon and a crisp salad, followed by a beef fillet for main. It is flavoursome, with a tasty horseradish sauce, roast potatoes and leek, but unfortunately lukewarm around the edges, and the knife is not quite up to sawing through it. Without the colourful surrounding of other courses, its presentation is also a little beige. Note to Qantas: serving food like a restaurant requires a little more focus on presentation. As for dessert – the French cheese was so deeply refrigerated I could barely taste it.

Entertainment

There are plenty of charging ports but there’s no Wi-Fi on the flight – I take that as a positive. At first glance, though, there isn’t much to entice me on the in-flight system. After some searching I find a couple of intriguing and quirky films I’ve never heard of, but which I thoroughly enjoy. Nothing like being strapped in for 17 hours to encourage thinking outside the box (set).

Service

After dinner service, the Dreamliner crew dim the cabin lights and ready you for sleep. You’re being gently manipulated. And it works.

I lie down about 4pm Paris time and wake up over the Indian Ocean about 8½ hours later. As I stir, customer service manager Christopher Marchioro offers me an unprompted piccolo latte to prepare for breakfast. It’s the little things. It is both delicious and perfectly timed.

Regular travellers have complained in these pages that Qantas has gone downhill, but I found the service attentive without being unctuous. Marchioro tells me the crew prefer the longer flights because of a sense of being unrushed. That’s how it feels to me.

Sustainability

Qantas says its amenity kits on board now use recycled or renewable materials such as bamboo, removing 7 million individual pieces of plastic annually. They are also in the process of removing plastic wrapping on business class mattress toppers for flights departing Australia.

The price

From $10,335 Paris to Perth, business class, return ($11,983 to Sydney via Perth; $11,658 to Melbourne via Perth).**

The verdict

Qantas starts its “Project Sunrise” flights – direct to London and New York – next year. Despite my misgivings, this long flight is a breeze. Uninterrupted time in the air leads to unhurried sleep – as opposed to lugging myself around an intermediate airport in the small hours. I suffer virtually no jet lag and hit the ground running.

Is that worth the $9000 (return) difference in fare compared to economy? Depends on your bank balance I guess.

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

The writer travelled as a guest of Qantas.

*For more information about air travel and sustainability, see iata.org

**Fares are based on those available for travel three months from the time of publication and subject to change.

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