Escape the notorious heat of this European capital at this breezy hotel

The hotel

Ace Hotel & Swim Club Athens

It’s hard to tear yourself away from the pool.

Check-in

Just a 30-minute taxi ride from either central Athens or its port (if you’ve arriving by cruise ship, as we were), Ace Hotel & Swim Club is at Glyfada, on the so-called Athenian Riviera. Brigitte Bardot and Frank Sinatra were among the glitterati who visited the region in its mid-century heyday; currently a skyline of cranes signals the major redevelopment the area, particularly neighbouring suburb Elliniko, is undergoing as it once again becomes the coastal getaway of choice for both city residents and overseas tourists.

The ground floor houses Good Chemistry cafe and Sebastian restaurant.

Housed in the former Fenix Hotel, the 120-room hotel’s design is by French studio ciguë in collaboration with Greek architect Aris Konstantinidis. The original building’s Brutalist structure and a certain 1970s resort charm have been retained, but with contemporary interiors and a dynamic sense of place.

The look

Vintage pieces and works by local artists create a relaxed lounge area patronised by locals.

A beaded textile behind the front desk says “Kalos Tous” (Welcome All), and the vintage lamps, bold rugs and comfy seating certainly make you feel instantly at home (albeit in a very stylish, light-filled one). Art is a major focus, with large-scale murals, collages and works by local artists throughout, while the use of copper, wood and richly coloured ceramic tiles lends vibrancy to white walls and polished concrete floors.

Outside, the generous pool area gives off Palm Springs vibes with yellow sun umbrellas, striped day beds, private cabanas and a bar with bamboo ceiling, rattan chairs and a kaleidoscopic mosaic installation. It’s very hot during our stay so we spend a lot of time here, and appreciate the jugs of iced water that are delivered regularly.

The room

The rooms are compact but comfortable.

Despite Athens’ large population of stray cats, there’s not a lot of room to swing one here (although we did request two double beds, so other configurations may be more spacious). The bathroom is a one-at-a-time proposition and there’s minimal storage, especially if you’re travelling long-haul with a large suitcase.

But the beds are very comfortable and we loved the covers by Greek Egyptian designer Salma Barakat, as well as the custom wall sconces and the cantilevered balcony (with two lounge chairs) that overlooks the pool. Some details need attention: we couldn’t work the main light, there was no opener for the capped bottles in the mini bar and the single-use-plastic toiletries could be replaced by an environmentally friendly option.

Food + drink

All-day dining at Sebastian.

The food throughout our stay was excellent. From the bliss of arriving to an Australian-style cafe in the lobby area, to a final-night dinner in the brand-new pan-Asian restaurant, we could have happily eaten every meal here. Good Chemistry (which is also at Ace Sydney) serves superlative coffee, sandwiches and pastries (the cinnamon buns!), while all-day restaurant Sebastian segues effortlessly from Greek-style avocado toast at breakfast to wood-grilled whole sea bass with lemony roast potatoes and a perfectly dressed green salad at dinner.

The rooftop area is perfect for sunset.Trudi Jenkins

Meanwhile sunset cocktails at the rooftop bar were surpassed only by salmon tataki, beef short rib and green mango salad at the newly opened and impressive Sora (Japanese for “sky”). Props to executive chef Elvi Dimitris Zyba who oversees it all.

Out + about

It’s a simple trip into downtown Athens, either directly by tram which is a little slow, or by taking a taxi to the nearest metro station, Elleniko, and then the no 2 line to Syntagma, where you’ll find the central square and parliament building, plus all the main sights and museums within walking distance.

The tram also goes (in the other direction) to Glyfada’s main boulevard with its boutiques, restaurants and bars; while further afield is Lake Vougliameni, fed by both a thermal spring and sea water, and the 5th-century Temple of Poseidon positioned dramatically on the cliffs at Cape Sounion.

The verdict

I would definitely return here, I loved the modernist design and relaxed feel. The pool and sea breeze make it a pleasant escape from busy (and often hot) Athens city, but key attractions are still within easy reach.

Essentials

Ace Hotel & Swim Club Athens, Artemisiou 1, Glyfada, Greece. Rooms from €152 ($275) per night (low season). See acehotel.com/athens/

Emirates flies to Athens via Dubai; see emirates.com

Our score out of five

★★★★

Highlight

The food here is remarkably good, making it tempting to stay put and just chill. Not a bad thing.

Lowlight

Service is inconsistent – sometimes exemplary, sometimes understaffed or too casual.

The writer was a guest of Ace Hotel & Swim Club Athens and Oceania Cruises.

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