2 hours ago
2
September 17, 2025 — 12:00am
The train: Galicja, Europe
- Route Berlin, Germany to Krakow, Poland
- Distance 603 kilometres
- Operator PKP (Polish State Railways) Intercity
- Class First class
- Frequency Daily, departing 8.52am
The journey
Berlin to Krakow aboard PKP Intercity’s service Galicja (EC 59), taking just over seven hours. The train then continues to Przemysl in south-east Poland.
Boarding
Arriving via S-Bahn train, I step into the futuristic interior of Berlin Hauptbahnhof, the central station opened in 2006 to knit together the German capital’s rail transport. Decks of rail lines are stacked beneath a glass and steel exterior, serving the S-Bahn, U-Bahn, regional trains and international services. Sadly, my first-class seat reservation with a first-class Eurail pass does not grant access to the Deutsche Bahn lounge. Instead, I grab a coffee at one of many food outlets and head to Platform 12 once my train pops up on the departure screens.
The seat
First-class seating on the Galicja is within a six-seat compartment, with two sets of three blue-upholstered seats facing each other (by comparison, second-class seating is in an open carriage). The seats are comfortably padded and have a decent amount of width and leg room, with luggage racks overhead. The best seats are the ones by the window, allowing those passengers the use of a small fixed table and a sweeping view of the passing forests and cities of Poland’s Silesia region.
Oddly, I don’t have an assigned seat number on my seat reservation; I suspect this is a problem which only affects pass-based reservations booked via PKP’s website. It’s a nuisance, as I have to keep moving seats when people board with tickets that do have seat numbers. However, I meet many fellow passengers as I move around: including JJ and Jennifer from the US, Frank from Finland, and Luis and Laura from Brazil. Compartment seating encourages conversation, as you might have guessed from my knowing everyone’s names.
Baggage
PKP has no size or weight restrictions on luggage, as long as it can be stored safely above or below your seat.
Food + drink
A delightful bonus of this service is its dedicated dining car, operated by the WARS Catering company which has been around since just after World War II. It offers tables for two or four, with red-upholstered seats and timber tabletops. Its spring to summer menu has a lengthy list of international dishes and Polish classics, the latter including dumplings with cottage cheese, potato and fried onion; potato pancakes with yoghurt and parsley; and meatballs with potatoes, beetroot and dill. As I order a bowl of zurek na zakwasie staropolskim (literally “Old Polish sour rye soup”), I peek inside the kitchen and am pleased to note big pots on stoves. When the soup arrives at my table it’s in a ceramic bowl with real cutlery and accompanied by a basket of bread, all very civilised. The soup is tangy and delicious, bulked out with boiled egg and sausage. At PLN18 ($7.50), it’s also a bargain.
One more thing …
If you’d rather dine at your seat, download the WARS app and order online.
The price
A first-class seat aboard the Galicja costs PLN195 ($81.50), while second class is PLN130 ($54). If using a Eurail pass, the compulsory seat reservation costs €4 ($7). Note there are two more Berlin-Krakow trains each day: the 12.52pm service called Wawel (named for Krakow’s castle), and the 4.52pm train Odra (named for the river along the international border). Book via intercity.pl
The verdict
The Galicja is a well-judged balance of old and new: its comfort and service levels are up-to-date, while its compartment seating and dining car are welcome reminders of classic rail travel. It’s a thoroughly enjoyable way to reach Poland’s most beautiful city.
Our rating out of five
★★★★
The writer travelled courtesy of Eurail, Visit Berlin, and Visit Malopolska.
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