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Farmers tending rice fields, fishermen in jukungs, women in traditional dress. Five-star resorts, choked roads, mass tourism. Both traditional and modern life are juxtaposed in Bali, and it’s a relationship of co-dependence.
The Balinese rely on tourists visiting from Australia to underpin their economy, while Australians depend on Bali to provide what has become their favourite international destination.
The so-called Island of the Gods accounted for one in five of all overseas bookings by Australians in 2025, according to Webjet.
So it’s not too much of a surprise to learn that Australian travel company Luxury Escapes named Bali their top-selling destination in hotel room sales for two years running, with an average stay of six nights.
But where do visitors begin these days, especially when it comes to deciding on somewhere to stay? There are now thousands of hotels, resorts and villas across Bali as development marches on at a mind-boggling pace.
Perhaps your idea of the ultimate Bali holiday is free-flow cocktails and massages, exploring the island’s phenomenal food scene or experiencing its ancient culture, which can be traced back centuries.
Maybe you want a wellness getaway with yoga and daily spa treatments? All of the above? Or perhaps you’d prefer to lose the crowds altogether in search of the Bali of old. All this and more can be found – you just need to know where to look.
Before booking, it pays to remember Bali’s peak tourist season is July and August; the shoulder season months of May, June and September are arguably better times to visit.
That can mean less humidity and minimal rain with competitive package holiday deals on offer.
The rest of the year? The rainy season runs from November to March; while humidity spikes and frequent tropical showers are ubiquitous, fewer tourists means less traffic, fewer crowds and better value.
We’ve road-tested six different properties – from one in Seminyak’s bustling heart to another in the lush Sidemen Valley (dubbed the new Ubud) – to help you find the perfect fit.
FOR CHAMPAGNE-BEER BUDGETERS
Double-Six Luxury Hotel Seminyak
The lowdown Across from the buzzing thatched-roof beach bars lining Double Six Beach, this 146-room hotel offers a wraparound pool, rooftop sunset bar, five food outlets and a serene spa. Expansive 80-square-metre suites (some with plunge pools, others with direct access to a 120-metre pool) come with freestanding baths, espresso machines and 24-hour butler service.
What they say “With a beachfront location, speakeasy-inspired decor, spacious all-suite accommodation and extensive dining options (including a rooftop bar with panoramic sunset views), it’s not difficult to see why Double-Six is one of Luxury Escapes’ most sought-after Bali properties.”
What we say The Double-Six’s locale at Seminyak’s southern end lands you in prime sunset session territory. The downside of this is it can get noisy (tip: ask for a room away from the street unless you enjoy loud music). Down a welcome drink of iced lime and vodka (optional) before hitting Seminyak’s bustling streets. Browse stalls and small shops selling sarongs, floaty dresses and knock-off shoes as well as cheerful day spas where $7 to $8 buys you a 30-minute reflexology treatment or massage. Bali’s phenomenal food scene lies on your doorstep, but Double-Six’s own Suzi-Q and Plantation Grill and Sling Bar hold their own (the Lagoon Bar is nothing to write home about). Order a margarita to pair with tapas-style share plates of Peking duck dumplings, miso cod and black pepper beef bao buns at Suzie-Q. Dry-aged meats (try the A5 Japanese wagyu striploin), line-caught seafood and martinis are the order of the day at Plantation Grill and Sling Bar, flaunting 1920s Great Gatsby style with its double-vaulted ceiling and gold chandelier. The welcome bread basket and performance by the resident soprano are highlights.
Don’t miss Happy hour in a sunken circular pod at the Rooftop Sunset Bar with 180-degree vistas of the sun dipping into the Indian Ocean. Or cross the road for toes-in-the-sand beach bars, complete with bean bags, colourful umbrellas and cool tunes.
Essentials Five-nights for two from $1999 twin share, including breakfast and lunch or dinner daily, two hours of cocktails a day, massages, dinner at The Plantation Grill, three hours of daily kids’ club access and more.
FOR SHOPAHOLICS, BEACH CLUB LOVERS AND EPICUREANS
Kleo Seminyak – JdV by Hyatt, Petitenget
The lowdown Marking the debut of JdV by Hyatt in South-East Asia and just steps from Petitenget Beach, the hip Kleo Seminyak hotel offers 60 mid-century-inspired rooms, a Riviera-styled rooftop pool and bar, a Southern Italian-inspired restaurant and a local design narrative.
What they say “A tranquil escape in modern studios in Seminyak. Moments from the buzz of Seminyak Square and Eat Street, this retreat blends modern comforts with a traditional Balinese influence, offering sanctuary after a day of island exploration.”
What we say Explore Petitenget’s lively enclave from this retro-inspired newcomer. Boutiques and homewares stores like Kim Soo, buzzing eateries like Motel Mexicola and Sea Circus, and beach clubs are a stroll away. Spacious rooms (some with views over Petitenget Beach) feature clean lines, eclectic colours and Zen-inspired bathrooms. Rooftop Social is a good spot for poolside sundowners beneath yellow and white striped umbrellas though it could get crowded once bookings pick up. Skip breakfast at the in-house Zia Tina — with your choice of Seminyak’s finest cafes on your doorstep, you’d be crazy to eat in.
Don’t miss Perth-based chef Will Meyrick’s latest Bali venture Buzo, a Japanese-Italian mash-up (Itameshi). Melding Italian warmth with the zest of Japanese izakayas, expect dishes like tempura zucchini flowers, lobster and prawn popcorn, and gochujang miso pork ribs with ponzu chilli dipping sauce. Order a Crystal Colada to get you started.
Essentials Four nights for two people with daily breakfast and free-flow cocktail hour from $999.
FOR LUXURY AND WELLNESS SEEKERS
AYANA Bali, Jimbaran
The lowdown This sprawling property is a kingdom unto itself, offering four resorts, 30 restaurants and bars, 14 swimming pools, a world-class spa, its own private beach and an 18-hole golf putting course.
What they say “This flagship property of AYANA Bali is an expansive retreat perched on the cliffs of Jimbaran Bay, offering ocean vistas. Dining is a highlight; sunset at cliffside Rock Bar is a must, but guests can savour various culinary experiences. It has multiple pools, a secluded beach and a wide array of activities encompassing wellness, fitness and cultural experiences.”
What we say Choose from AYANA Resort, AYANA Segara and RIMBA by AYANA, but if the budget extends, nothing beats the newly renovated AYANA Villas. Step through ornate kori kuwadi doors to your private cliff-top pool sanctuary with manicured lawns and 180 degree Indian Ocean views. Petal-strewn, Roman-style baths, four-poster beds draped in indigenous textiles and butlers on speed dial await (who will chase away troops of monkeys that may surround your villa). Golf carts ferry guests along frangipani- and bougainvillea-lined pathways to yoga, the thalassotherapy pool (the world’s largest), cooking classes or poolside and alfresco dining. It’s hard to fault this property but being far removed from outside restaurants, bars, day spas and shopping, does make guests a captive audience.
Don’t miss Loved by the Insta-set, the Rock Bar is perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the ocean – you need to visit at least once. Be warned though: relentless selfie takers can detract from the experience while the cost of bottled water (not provided) is outrageous.
Essentials Three nights twin share in AYANA Bali Pool Villas with daily breakfast, nightly dinner, Rock Bar access and more from $3999.
FOR THE FLOP-AND-DROP CROWD
The Mulia Bali, Nusa Dua
The lowdown Merging three properties in one to create one of Bali’s biggest resorts, this award-winning property offers multiple pools, a vast fitness centre, spa and ocean vistas, plus a portfolio of high-calibre restaurants and bars. Its white sand beach locale along Nusa Dua’s five-star resort strip adds to its appeal.
What they say “Indulgence is king at this ultra-luxurious Bali resort just steps from Nusa Dua Beach. Among the palm-fringed grounds are six swimming pools, nine restaurants and bars serving everything from Chinese to Mediterranean fare, cocktails and high tea. Find your zen at Mulia Spa among the Finnish saunas and meditative steam room or sink your toes into the secluded stretch of white-sand beach.”
What we say Don’t let the enormity of this five-star mega resort put you off – its scale doesn’t in any way compromise what is an exceptional offering. Three individual resorts – The Mulia Resort, The Mulia and The Mulia Villas – each come with their own lobby and accommodate more than 1500 guests spread across 30 hectares. At the property’s highest point, 108 stand-alone villas come with their own pool, 24/7 butler service and elevated sea outlook. The 111 suite rooms at The Mulia, meanwhile, come with a jacuzzi, ocean vistas and Egyptian cotton sheets. Marble, hand-blown glass chandeliers, statuesque fountains towering over pools (including a splash pool with waterslides), attentive staff and manicured gardens are on offer. Similarly to the Ayana, however, it can feel like exposure to local culture is limited.
Don’t miss Lunch poolside at Soleil, famous for its Sunday brunch of Mediterranean and pan-Asian inspired dishes. The Cafe’s mind-boggling buffet (some claim it’s the world’s best hotel buffet; downside is it gets crazy busy) features seven cooking theatres and a dedicated dessert room with chocolate fountain and fairy floss stand.
Essentials Five nights with daily breakfast, dinner and free-flow cocktails from $2999.
FOR YOGIS, FOODIES AND DENDROPHILES
The Impiana Private Villas Ubud
The lowdown Ubud’s latest five-star retreat is tucked into a steep hillside overlooking the Ayung River valley. Five enclaves named after Bali’s flowers – Cempaka, Kamboja, Melati, Anggrek and Teratai – house 35 suites and 35 pool villas. A central thatched restaurant and bar overlooks an infinity pool and sculpted rice terrace. An Asian grill restaurant and spa is due to open on the river’s edge.
What they say “Surrounded by Ubud’s jungle, these newly opened five-star luxury suites and pool villas offer a peaceful escape, some with panoramic views over the sacred Ayung River. Combining sleek interiors with open-air living spaces, expansive balconies and Balinese decor, Impiana Private Villas Ubud is a sanctuary that blends with its natural surroundings.”
What we say Luxurious seclusion is on offer at this new jungle getaway by Indonesian architect Popo Danes. Wake to birdsong and butterflies before breakfast at Bijan, with its soaring roofline covered in traditional alang-alang thatched roofing. The food and beverage offering is a work in progress ($43 for a nasi goreng is excessive and almost half the cocktails weren’t available) but staff bend over backwards to look after you. A tiered infinity pool, shaded by traditional Indonesian umbrellas, overlooks rice fields and is complete with water buffalo and duck sculptures. Venture into Ubud via complimentary shuttle (a 15- to 30-minute drive depending on the traffic) for the markets, Campuhan Ridge Walk, Ubud Palace and coffee at expat favourite, Seniman Coffee. Return for a swim beneath the stars to a soundtrack of croaking frogs and geckos.
Don’t miss Syrco Base, the exceptional farm-to-table restaurant by Netherlands Michelin star-awarded chef Syrco Bakker. Degustation menus range from five to 17 courses inspired by Bakker’s Indonesian grandparents. Ubud staple, Hujan Locale, housed in a charming two-storey shuttered building by Will Meyrick, is also a must for authentic Indonesian street food. Try the sate babi (pork) merah and beef rendang. Honey and Smoke, yet another Meyrick outlet, offers a wood-smoked, grilled and fired menu in a Wes Anderson-inspired speakeasy along Jalan Monkey Forest.
Essentials Three nights for two, including daily breakfast, daily lunch or dinner, daily cocktail, wine or beer, and one 60-minute massage for two people from $1059.
FOR SEEKERS OF THE REAL BALI
Samanvaya Sidemen
The lowdown Hemmed by rivers, rice terraces, and sweeping Mount Agung views, this adults-only sustainable resort is found in the largely undeveloped Sidemen Valley – dubbed the new Ubud. It offers 28 rooms and villas along with a yoga studio, two infinity pools, two restaurants and a stunning new spa and bathhouse.
What they say “Tucked deep in Sidemen Valley, Samanvaya is an adults-only retreat. Framed by Mount Agung views, rice terraces, and the Telaga Waja River, this tranquil hideaway blends eco design with handcrafted furnishings. Twenty-eight boutique rooms and villas spill across the hillside, each oriented to make the most of the valley views. On offer is yoga in the open-air shala, two infinity pools, and a brand-new wellness complex featuring a hydrotherapy circuit, sauna and herbal steam room. A deep connection to the surrounding village makes Samanvaya a strong option for a getaway in Bali’s largely undeveloped east.”
What we say Founded by New Zealand couple Tracey and Rob Rackliff in 2017, Samanvaya’s recently expanded offering includes 10 new wellness riverside villas, along with the Ananda Spa and Bathhouse. Built from locally sourced materials, the new villas, spa and bathhouse offer dramatic panoramas over rice terraces. Slip off your silk kimono and step into the warmth of the herbal steam and sauna, followed by a soak in therapeutic baths (ranging from eight to 40 degrees). Reflexology, rose quartz facials, traditional Balinese therapies and massage are delivered in (mostly) serene treatment rooms. Open to outside guests, restrictions on phone use and loud conversation at this extremely popular new spa and bathhouse aren’t always enforced. The new inhouse Sahaja restaurant is considered the best in the valley and the views from the outside terrace are staggering. With limited options outside the resort, however, it can start to feel a little repetitive, particularly on longer stays.
Don’t miss Explore the bucolic valley on the back of a scooter (helmet on, please) along winding roads through local villages to the cascading Gembleng Waterfall. After a steep, sweat-inducing climb, reward yourself with a refreshing dip in the natural rock pools (the best is found at the top) and a fresh coconut from a warung offering valley views. Go early to beat the crowds. While the Sidemen Valley is still relatively undiscovered, this gorgeous waterfall is already on the Insta-radar.
Essentials From $266 a night in a Sundari room for two, including breakfast; $690 for Sari Wellness Villas. Add on use of the bathhouse for $40 a person a day; scooter and waterfall tour $40.
VILLAGE PEOPLE: WHERE TO STAY IN BALI
Nusa Dua
Pros Ideal for a flop-and-drop holiday, with a string of five-star resorts close to the airport. A stay here revolves around dining, spa and pool time.
Cons A resort bubble, Nusa Dua feels far from buzzing restaurants, shopping, good coffee, traditional Balinese life.
Uluwatu
Pros Home to world-class surf breaks, towering limestone cliffs, gorgeous beaches, laid-back eateries, upscale beach clubs, and views for days.
Cons Access isn’t easy nor is getting to the beaches, many of which are reached via steep stairs. Everything is spread out, so you’ll need transport.
Ubud
Pros Jungle, serene rice fields, a thriving arts scene, great restaurants and a strong wellness bent.
Cons Ubud town itself is crowded, noisy and traffic-choked.
Seminyak
Pros A buzzing restaurant, bar and cafe scene, with cool beach clubs, boutiques, day spas and a long sweep of beach that makes the perfect sunset destination.
Cons Overrun with tourists, narrow streets, noisy and pricier than other parts of Bali. Choose your location wisely, or you’ll spend all your time stuck in traffic.
Canggu
Pros Rolling surf breaks, rice paddies, beach clubs, hip cafes and restaurants.
Cons Bali’s influencer and digital nomad capital is overcrowded, expensive and lacks Balinese culture. Did we mention the horrendous traffic?
THE DETAILS
Stay
Packages and rates for the featured road-tested Bali properties can be found on Luxury Escapes’ website. Luxury Escapes’ travel consultants can also advise which area will best suit you. See luxuryescapes.com
Fly
Virgin Australia operates daily flights between Sydney and Denpasar (Bali) and twice daily flights from Melbourne, using Boeing 737-800 aircraft. Flight time is between six and seven hours. VA has flown this popular route since 2009, when the airline operated under Virgin Blue. See virginaustralia.com
The writer visited Bali as a guest of Luxury Escapes, Samanvaya Sidemen and Virgin Australia.
