Plate up
How do you mark the beginning of a new year? With resolutions that may or may not be acted upon? With a hangover that may or may not go away before January 2? Or perhaps by eating a certain food thought to bring good luck in your culture? The latter option is what many people around the world take up. There are traditional New-Year foods eaten in many countries, from lentils in Italy – meant to represent coins – to suckling pig in Austria; tamales in Mexico, and black-eyed peas in southern parts of the US.
In Japan, meanwhile, they eat mochi, a rice cake made from mochigome, a sweet glutinous rice. This is soaked and then traditionally pounded with a wooden mallet in an usu – a large mortar – until it’s a smooth, sticky mass, which can then be moulded into various shapes, sometimes with a sweet filling.
First serve
Mochi has long held spiritual and cultural significance in Japan. There are records of mochi being used in important Shinto events – childbirth, marriages – as far back as the 8th century, while in the Tale of Genji, written in the 11th century, there’s mention of nobles using strands of mochi to symbolise long life during New-Year festivities.
During the Muromachi period, from the 14th to 16th centuries, those of the samurai class began making kagami mochi – two balls of mochi stacked on top of each other – and placing them in an alcove in their homes to attract prosperity in the year ahead. These kagami mochi are still popular in Japan, and are traditionally placed on family altars on December 28.
Order there
Mochi treats are available almost everywhere in Japan, though for high-end versions, check the food hall at the Isetan department store in Tokyo (cp.mistore.jp).
Order here
In Sydney, there’s mochi and other Japanese treats at Azuki Bakery (azukibakery.com.au). In Melbourne, sample excellent mochi at Hareruya Pantry (hareruya.com). And in Brisbane, try Fuji Mart (facebook.com/FujiMartBrisbane).
Make it
Want to try making your own mochi at home? Follow Jane de Graaf’s recipe on Good Food.
One more thing
There’s another classic New-Year’s treat in Japan, too: toshikoshi – long soba noodles. Its strands are meant to represent longevity and prosperity.
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Ben Groundwater is a Sydney-based travel writer, columnist, broadcaster, author and occasional tour guide with more than 25 years’ experience in media, and a lifetime of experience traversing the globe. He specialises in food and wine – writing about it, as well as consuming it – and at any given moment in time Ben is probably thinking about either ramen in Tokyo, pintxos in San Sebastian, or carbonara in Rome. Follow him on Instagram @bengroundwaterConnect via email.

























