This ’80s Bali resort blends nostalgia with bargain-priced luxury

11 hours ago 1

The hotel

Bali Mandira Beach Resort & Spa, Legian, Bali

Check-in

Bali Mandira Beach Resort & Spa in Legian.

Bali Mandira Beach Resort & Spa in Legian.

Staff are formally seated behind desks at reception as guests fill out paperwork on arrival, which is a more traditional approach compared with some of Bali’s newer resorts. Having rocked up about 11am after a red-eye from Sydney, I’m near ecstatic to discover they’re able to accommodate an early check-in.

The look

Azul Beach Club at Bali Mandira Beach Resort & Spa.

Azul Beach Club at Bali Mandira Beach Resort & Spa.

It may have been around since the early ’80s, but this 43-year-old beachfront resort on Jalan Padma in Legian is ageing gracefully. Expect the well-maintained facilities of a luxury hotel for less than $280 a night. With flourishes of Balinese architecture and a Bintang-swigging, Legian-loving crowd, it’s a nostalgic throwback to the Bali of old (if you haven’t watched the clip of Redgum’s I’ve Been To Bali Too on YouTube, do so immediately). Among its two hectares of immaculately landscaped grounds are 189 rooms across a random patchwork of accommodation, including six newer villas with private pools and classic Balinese-style red-brick cottages in two-storey duplexes. The vibe is relaxed with guests chilling on their patios as their bathers dry on adjacent racks, and it immediately takes me back to the Bali of my 20s. Those with kids are socialising at the swim-up bar at the lagoon pool while the waterslide in the nearby children’s pool gets a solid workout. For guests sans offspring, the infinity pool at Azul Beach Club overlooks the sprawling gardens and is a private, more tranquil oasis for adults only.

The room

Mandira Club Suite is spacious and comfortable.

Mandira Club Suite is spacious and comfortable.

As part of the club benefits included with my beach-chic Mandara Club suite, the mini-bar is complimentary for a single raiding and free canapes and drinks are offered in the Suling Lounge every day from 5pm to 6pm. At 55 square metres, the suite is spacious and comfortable, but a tad dark. The only natural light is through a picture window made of glass doors with white shutters, which can be fully opened to allow for fresh air, although it lacks privacy. An oversized daybed and decor including indigo-dyed loungers and hand-woven rugs uplift the space, though mind the slippery wooden floor.

Food + drink

Azul Beach Club serves charcoal-baked lobster with a side of reggae.

Azul Beach Club serves charcoal-baked lobster with a side of reggae.

Head to Azul Beach Club for tiki-inspired cocktails and casual eats, such as grilled prawns and a mammoth charcoal-baked lobster with garlic and parsley aioli (ask for the sauce on the side) for the bargain price of IDR545,000 ($53). The venue hosts live gigs four nights a week, including reggae and salsa. Indonesian options such as sop buntut (oxtail soup) can be found at all-day Celagi restaurant. The themed nights held on the lawn every week are a nice touch, and include a Balinese cultural dinner with babi guling buffet, and a circus iteration that will likely have you in stitches.

Out + about

The hotel’s central location on Jalan Padma is enviable, with Legian Beach directly opposite. Turn right and walk down Jalan Padma and you’ll find Bali’s ubiquitous sports bars, tattoo shops and typical tourist shopping. The bright lights of Seminyak are a 25-minute walk along the beach.

The verdict

The writer highly rates the massage treatments  at Glow Spa.

The writer highly rates the massage treatments at Glow Spa.

The premise that a hotel can’t be everything to everyone is a myth: this laid-back stay strikes a balance between being family-friendly and a fun hangout for couples.

Essentials

Mandira Club Suites from IDR5,887,500 ($577) a night. There are 48 accessible rooms. Jalan Padma No.2, Legian, Bali, Indonesia. See balimandira.com

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Rating out of five

★★★★

Highlight

I had the best Balinese massage of my life at the hotel’s unassuming Glow Spa, and that’s saying something, given I lived on the island for five years.

Lowlight

The hotel still uses plastic straws and early on my first morning, the gym was overrun by a group of kids under 10 who were using the space as a playground. A cruel awakening.

The writer stayed as a guest of Bali Mandira Resort & Spa and with assistance from Jetstar. See jetstar.com

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