The former head chef of a three-hatted restaurant has opened a West Melbourne pop-up for summer

It must be summer: Cam Tay-Yap has opened a new pop-up for casual hangs and fresh flavours. Last year the chef rigged up a charcoal grill in the car park of an Oakleigh South bouldering gym. This time he’s in the old Earth Angels space in West Melbourne, five minutes’ walk from Queen Victoria Market. His Pebble residency will occupy the corner spot until April, then hospitality group Tsunagu Project (Hareruya Pantry, Le Bajo Milkbar) will open a tempura restaurant in the space.

Tay-Yap was the head chef at three-hatted Amaru when he was named The Age Good Food Guide Young Chef of the Year 2024, an honour shared with Lily McGrath. (McGrath has just taken a huge step in her career, too, taking on the head chef role at CBD Japanese grill Robata.)

“Going from fine dining to a car park to an indoor space is surreal,” says Tay-Yap. “Unlike the car park we don’t have to battle Melbourne’s weather but being in an actual room with a ceiling and a kitchen feels more legit, which is a bit scary.” There are 34 seats in the restaurant, a dog-friendly courtyard at the rear, and an upstairs room for private dining. Unlike the car park version, this Pebble has a liquor licence: Good Food endorses the fat-washed kaya toast vodka.

Tay-Yap and his wife and Pebble collaborator Trish Pham recently returned from six months travelling around Asia, a mix of holiday and restaurant pop-ups with old colleagues and new friends in destinations including Singapore, Tokyo, Bali and Ho Chi Minh City.

“In a personal growth sense I have no words,” says Tay-Yap. “Before we left I was tossing and turning about what to do next. I felt lost and disillusioned by things in Melbourne. Going away for six months has given me a fresher feeling.” One big question was: why cook? “I wanted to figure out why I do what I do. Are you cooking to get a Michelin star or three hats? Are you cooking because you like cooking? Turns out I just really like cooking and being in kitchens.”

Pebble’s freewheeling Asian fusion menu is inspired by the pair’s travels: you could think of it as light-hearted, nimble fine dining. Tuna ceviche leans Vietnamese, the fish topped with compressed papaya and Vietnamese mint “leche de tigre” tying it together. Mushroom rendang pot pie has its roots in Malaysia, where Tay-Yap was born, but it’s served with herb oil that includes native Geraldton wax. Hong Kong is the inspiration for a mochi-draped mango sorbet garnished with peaches and apricots.

Family is at the heart of Pebble: Pham is balancing work as a sonographer with restaurateur duties; Tay-Yap’s mother Sim Tay will be a frequent presence; the decor is a transposition of Pham and Tay-Yap’s lounge room.

“All our artwork, framed photos, plants and crockery are here,” he says. “Our house is barren – it actually looks like we’ve been robbed.” The idea is to create a feeling of welcome, along with a culinary experience. “As a chef I do my best with the food but I want to take ego out of it. I’ve realised that vibe and friendliness are at least 50 per cent of what gets people to come back, especially to a neighbourhood family restaurant like this.”

Tuesday-Thursday 5pm-late; Friday-Sunday noon-late

225-229 Victoria Street, West Melbourne, pebbledining.com

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