Meet the next big name in Australian fashion

2 months ago 21

For five long years artist Jordan Gogos has been the next big thing in Australian fashion. The graduate collection of budding designer Mary Argyropoulos has arrived just in time for Gogos to relinquish the unofficial honour.

“When I started out I had an aesthetic, but I wasn’t good,” Gogos says. “Mary just goes hard.”

“From the moment I met Mary I knew straight away that one day I will end up working for her.”

Model Katya Gray wearing the finale piece from UTS student Mary Argyropoulos’ graduate collection.

Gogos’ insights go beyond Argyropoulos’ 14-piece collection for the University of Technology Sydney, where Greek fabrics paying tribute to the Fates of mythology and ’80s influences were united by Indian weaving techniques, creating pieces on the crafty side of couture with heavy doses of cool.

“I worked in Jordan’s studio for four years and something that he taught me is how important craft is,” says Argyropoulos, 23.

Argyropoulos in one of her own creations.

“We see a jacket, and we think it’s beautiful, but we have forgotten the process and story of making of it. Jordan’s not afraid of textiles. He’ll just go to the studio, rip things up and take advantage of the materials to create.”

Argyropoulos put Gogos’ ripping lessons into practice for her finale piece for last month’s graduate show, a postmodern power dress made from strips of leftover fabric from her other creations.

“I had a lot of family and friends come and help me cut those hand strips, which was a fun day just sitting in the backyard with the Greek coffees coming out,” Argyropoulos says.

The Greek influences continued with the budding designer’s beloved Yiayia helping to crochet pieces and hem unwieldy fabrics.

“Often, when students take inspiration from familial and cultural histories, it can be more subdued or ambivalent, as if they are still working something out,” says Todd Robinson, a senior lecturer in the UTS fashion and textiles program. “Mary’s work, in contrast, feels like a confident, contemporary proposition, an articulation of who she is as a modern Australian woman with Greek heritage.”

Those Greek connections also played a more practical role, thanks to Yiayia’s bread knife.

“I had to use her knife to carve the shoulder pads from foam pieces found at Reverse Garbage. They took four days to make. You can’t just buy them in that size,” Argyropoulos says.

Having finished her studies, the designer is now facing a future in a tumultuous industry but is eager to further hone her skills overseas. Internships at Marni and Maison Margiela are on her dream board.

“I would wash the bathrooms at Margiela. I’m not afraid of starting at the bottom,” she says.

Gogos already sees Argyropoulos as on her way to the top.

“In a time of quiet luxury, what’s wrong with having something by Mary, that’s fierce, like her?”

That could mean Argyropoulos starting her own label, sooner rather than later.

“I have worked on Australian Fashion Week with Jordan for four years, so the novelty has worn off but seeing my name there might feel different,” she says.

Make the most of your health, relationships, fitness and nutrition with our Live Well newsletter. Get it in your inbox every Monday.