It opened almost a decade late, but this airport still feels futuristic

The airport

Berlin Brandenburg Airport (BER), Berlin

The flight

Swiss Air Berlin to Athens (via Zurich) from Terminal 1

The arrival

My Uber ride from Prenzlauer Berg to the airport is free of traffic; given it’s a yawn-inducing 5am on a Sunday, that’s not surprising. At other times, I’d opt for the 30-minute trip on the Airport Express (FEX) from Berlin Central Station or the S-Bahn, the commuter train, numbers S9 and S45. The airport’s train station is in Terminal 1; to get to Terminal 2, head to arrivals (Level E0) and follow the signs.

The look

BER’s reputation precedes it: the airport’s much-feted opening was delayed by almost a decade due to construction gaffes and a budget blowout (it eventually opened in October, 2020). Locals joke that by the time of opening, even the architecture was outdated. On this, I disagree. BER is modern and striking: the spacious hall (the check-in area) features floor to ceiling glass, warm French walnut trim and a lovely limestone floor. From the ceiling of Terminal 1 hangs a massive metal “net” of red, a sculpture known as The Magic Carpet. (I don’t see them, but apparently other novel artworks reference travel, including coins that are embedded in the floor).

Checking in

The automation here is at another level. First, I view the overhead screen; so massive, it wouldn’t look out of place in NYC’s Times Square. Next, the check-in and baggage area comprise computerised stations. After working my way through the onscreen queries, I attach the resulting luggage label, scan the barcode with the handheld scanner and – relief! – the bag whizzes off. Until I hit the security line, I haven’t spotted one airport official. (I find out later that you can, indeed, deal with people at check-in counters). In any case, a cyberattack here would be ghastly: one occurred two weeks later (in September 2025) that caused massive delays and problems for weeks.

Security

My early arrival at the baggage security area means fewer people, though I wait for a couple of “faffers” ahead of me who use multiple tubs. Other passengers report that this is a bottleneck in busy times. This area uses the newer CT scanning operation where you plonk the entire unopened bag into the bin: computer, electronics, the lot. The next step, border control, is automated: I scan my passport, stare at the camera, and – whew! (again) - I’m cleared.

Food + drink

Once through, I relax. I’m rapt by the food court, called “Market Place”, though I’m not hungry. That doesn’t stop me from ogling at the German delis that have a decent stock of delicious-looking stuffed rolls. Other options include Japanese and Italian, plus healthy options and an international burger chain.

Retail Therapy

Again, there’s enough here to keep one very happy. From pharmacies to a good bookshop, electronics to a LEGO store. As for something local? There’s the fourth-generation-run FALKE, a luxury hosiery and sock brand and Ampelmann, that sells items featuring the iconic hat-wearing walking symbol on (former East) Berlin’s traffic lights.

Passing Time

I find it a relaxing place to pass time, especially by window shopping. For families, there’s a good kids’ playground, and “napcap” sleeping cabins, for those on layovers. The Wi-Fi is strong and efficient. (I don’t see the lounges, named Tempelhof and Tegel, but a German friend says they ooze “business style”; you can use them for a fee.)

The verdict

For all the past criticism, I have no personal gripes and my impression is positive. Luckily for me, I avoided the cyberattack. Passengers’ main complaint seems to be the long lines at security. So perhaps the lesson here is to follow my lead – book an early flight.

Our rating out of five

★★★★

The writer travelled at her own expense.

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