I ditched my extra legroom upgrade for a downgrade on this flight

The airline: Hawaiian Airlines

• Route Sydney to Honolulu, Alaska Airlines flight AS852 operated by Hawaiian Airlines as flight HA 452.
• Frequency Five times weekly (Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun).
• Aircraft Airbus A330
• Class Economy, seat 22C
• Flight time Nine hours, 46 minutes

Checking in

”This has never happened before. Maybe your ESTA visa [mandatory for US entry] has been revoked” is not what you want to hear while attempting to board a Hawaii-bound flight. Yet here we are, the ground staff diligently attempting to contact US Immigration – this is beyond the airline’s control – who after an hour permit boarding. What was the glitch? No one knows, but now down to the wire, I sprint to make boarding by impersonating Usain Bolt going for (airport) gold. In stark contrast to my sweaty, hyperventilating self, the gate staff are a vision of serenity with flower hair ornaments, greeting me with an “aloha”, “mahalo” or some other Hawaiian permutation. The blood is pounding too loudly in my ears to be sure.

Baggage

It’s an incredibly generous allowance, with a 32kg checked bag, 11kg carry-on, plus the option to purchase a second, 32kg bag for just $100.

Loyalty scheme

The program is Atmos Rewards, and the Honolulu-based carrier is now part of Oneworld, good news for partner airline members such as Qantas frequent flyers. The move followed Alaska Airlines (a Oneworld member since 2021) completing its acquisition of Hawaiian in late 2024.

The seat

It’s a 2-4-2 configuration and a light load with 171 passengers in the 192-seat main cabin, meaning that a lucky few score an empty row for sleeping. Maybe to ease the check-in trauma, I’ve been upgraded to a roomy Extra Comfort seat (11G), directly behind business class, normally a major win with 12cm extra seat pitch. But with bulkhead row’s rigid armrests, I request a downgrade to my previous economy spot, which had an adjacent spare seat. As the last to board, the steward kindly suggests I go back “and shop”. Taking no prisoners, I do, selecting all four seats in the centre of row 22. It’s a “buy one, get three free” sale. The seat texture is smooth. I know because I’m face-down in the foetal position shortly after take-off (it’s been a big day), the tropical, pretty teal with smart grey pops giving calming Hawaii-aquarium vibes. The pitch is 31 inches (79cm) with 18 inches (46cm) in width, and I’m cocooned in three blankets; Hawaii may be tropical, but this plane sure is Arctic.

Entertainment + tech

The screens aren’t the largest or sharpest, but there’s a decent variety of entertainment, and I actually enjoy the safety video, showcasing various Hawaiian locations and cultural traditions. Technology is limited to a USB port.

Service

I need shades. Service is undertaken with blinding, white smiles. The pristine white teeth are as much a part of the uniform as the hibiscus-decorated, water hue shirts. Service is fast and discreet, and I feel like “ohana” (Hawaiian family) from take-off.

Food

Departing at 9.50pm, passengers are asked to lower their trays if they want a late-night snack. I skip the midnight sandwich for extra sleep. Breakfast is the winner: piping hot pancakes with a side of crisp, freshly cut fruit and a blueberry Chobani yoghurt.

Sustainability

Hawaiian Airlines aims for net-zero carbon emissions by 2050. Initiatives include the introduction of fuel-efficient Boeing 787-9 Dreamliners and using electric power instead of jet fuel at Honolulu’s gates – saving about 5933 tonnes of CO² annually.*

One more thing

HA flight numbers have been replaced with AS (Alaska Airlines), but flights remain on Hawaiian Airlines aircraft, bearing the iconic tail image of the female silhouette of Pualani, the “flower of the sky”.

The price

From about $930 return, Sydney to Honolulu in economy class.**

The verdict

For some, Hawaii is the destination, others are connecting to direct flights to San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York, or like me lassoing the opportunity for a tropical stopover. Clearing US customs here painlessly is reason alone to fly to the mainland via Hawaii; it’s quick, in an empty hall, with a friendly officer.

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

*For more information about air travel and sustainability, see iata.org

**Fares are based on those available for travel three months from the time of publication and subject to change.

The writer flew at her own expense.