Tell someone you’re headed to Bathurst, and they might naturally assume you’re a petrolhead, a fan of the annual supercar races held at Mount Panorama. But this gracious town – NSW’s oldest inland city that came of age during the goldrush – is finally emerging as a destination in its own right, with impressive new accommodation and an exciting food and beverage scene, all presented in a rich mantle of history. Here’s how to make the most of it on a three-day itinerary.
DAY ONE
Afternoon
Approaching Bathurst after driving via the Blue Mountains, it’s hard to resist the siren song of the bold white signage etched into the mountainside of Mount Panorama. Head up the mountaintop – named Wahluu, meaning to “watch over” in Wiradjuri language – to tackle the circuit, a public scenic drive outside of race times. Resist the urge to put the foot down, however – lurking highway patrol vehicles are a constant presence to deter hoons.
Back on the flatlands at Littlebourne Guest House, owner Annabelle Warren’s passion for the circa 1830 homestead that she has painstakingly restored is palpable as she recounts stories of its chequered past. Annabelle’s own love for contemporary art and design is infused into the historic bones of the sprawling property, creating a joyful masterpiece of understated luxury.
Evening
After a soak in the cast-iron tub featured in each individually styled suite at Littlebourne, head into town where several new restaurants are creating a culinary buzz. Norma Joan, set in a leafy courtyard off William Street, celebrates the flavours of the Central West paired with an all-regional wine list; while down the road in the 150-year-old Royal Building, Bootleg Dining fuses classic Italian and modern Australian cuisines in a menu based on seasonality. End the evening with a game of billiards on Littlebourne’s full-sized table, sipping a wee dram of local Grange Distillery whisky or cinnamon-infused liqueur.
DAY TWO
Morning
When the Morgan family first moved to a dilapidated, 50-room Scottish baronial manor on the outskirts of Bathurst in 1968, six-year-old Christopher was in heaven, riding his bicycle through the empty hallways of his own personal castle. More than 55 years later, Christopher continues the legacy of his father Rex, whose guided tours of the mansion since 1969 proved a crucial source of income to restore and maintain the property over the years. Today, a self-guided tour of Abercrombie House provides a fascinating peek into a much-loved, albeit eccentric stately home. A new basement cafe and gallery, as well as a calendar of high teas, concerts and kids’ night tours, provides added incentive to linger.
For further insight into Bathurst’s colonial past, Lawson’s Estate at Macquarie Farm – the oldest European farm west of the Blue Mountains – provides a snapshot of life in crueler times, with original convict barracks standing as a contrast to the Georgian-style homestead. Accommodating groups of up to 30 in four impeccably restored buildings, the property is also open for guided tours on Sunday afternoons or weekdays by appointment.
Afternoon
After a casual lunch over a local brew at Reckless Brewing Co, delve deeper into the history of the region at the goldmining towns of Sofala and Hill End. Take a self-guided walk through the four streets of Sofala visiting antique stores, cafes and the Royal Hotel, or head to the public fossicking area in Hill End to try your luck panning for gold. There are more than 10,000 gold rush artefacts on display at History Hill Museum, where a 175-metre purpose-built underground mine gives some idea of the claustrophobia miners had to endure.
If admiring beautiful animals and the art of dressage is more your style, Winterwood Sport Horses at Glanmire is an equestrian’s dream. Established by fifth-generation Bathurstian and horse herbalist Cath Cox, this breeding facility for award-winning warm-bloods also offers training clinics with classical master José Mendez, whose philosophy of harmony and mindful communication creates confident partnerships between horse and rider.
Evening
Celebrity chef Matt Moran’s reimagining of an historic old pub near his family farm at Rockley is a symbol of Bathurst’s burgeoning foodie scene – a combination of authenticity, sustainably sourced local produce and innovation that elevates the country pub experience. Join the raucous locals in Rockley Pub’s front bar before retiring to the quieter dining area for a truly memorable meal.
DAY THREE
Morning
After browsing in quirky local shops such as The Barn, which reflects the urban cowboy vibe of the region, pause over a pot of tea and delicious homemade treats at Bake, Table and Tea. Owned by tea aficionada Mel Kelly, this homewares store features, among gifts and baking essentials, a huge range of quality teas including offerings from Harney and Sons, Larsen and Thompson and The Organic Tea Project.
To sip and savour, take a seat at the in-house cafe showcasing 50 loose-leaf teas, with Mel on hand to guide customers through mini high teas as well as exclusive tastings of white, oolong, green, black and herbal varieties. Pair with delicious scones, jam and cream, made fresh in-house every day.
Afternoon
Depart Bathurst on the Oberon driving trail, travelling via O’Connell and its historic Aussie pub. Wander through Australia’s largest private cool climate garden, Mayfield Garden at Oberon; or stop by the delightful Essington Park, a boutique farm stay and cooking school curated by chef and domestic goddess Simmone Logue. As well as offering evocative accommodation in converted shearers’ quarters, Simmone also runs regular one-day workshops in a rustic woolshed, from classes in sourdough making to creating basketry and garden structures from willow. The affable Simmone also hosts seasonal dinners served with local wines, a personal love song to her beloved farm and the bounty of the region she calls home.
The writer was a guest of Bathurst & Backroads. See bathurstandbackroads.com.au
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Julie Miller scrapes a living writing about the things she loves: travel, riding horses and drinking cocktails on tropical beaches. Between airports, she lives in a rural retreat just beyond Sydney.