3 days ago
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Layered along with silk crêpe kaftans in the Australian Fashion Week debut of First Nations designer Verity van Ermel Scherer were deeply personal references.
A recording of Verity’s late grandmother Valerie van Ermel Scherer’s experiences with the stolen generations played during the resort and swimwear show, leaving usually stony-faced front-row veterans with tear-filled eyes. But after the final bow, it was all business as the proud Larrakia woman remained laser-focused.
“My dream is to be in talks with major stores such as Net-A-Porter, The Iconic and Revolve,” Verity said following the applause on the rooftop of the Museum of Contemporary Art in Sydney. “I have been communicating with my manufacturers about being ready for bulk orders. I am in the right place.”
It’s a big step for Verity, with the label currently only available through the Van Ermel Scherer website. “This is my moment,” she says.
Since the Australian Fashion Council took over as operators of AFW in 2024, the business of fashion has been at the forefront of decision-making. Last year, designers such as Gail Sorronda were rejected from the program because they were not open to orders from international stores. That policy has been relaxed (Sorronda was invited back but politely declined), but it’s still about the bottom line, along with bikini bottoms.
“Australia is a small market, so for brands to really grow they have to look overseas,” says Kellie Hush, AFW fashion director. “The feedback when AFC took over was that there wasn’t enough buyers coming to Australian Fashion Week.”
“After last year’s success we’ve got buyers from the Middle East here, we’ve got buyers from the US, we’ve got buyers from Europe, so it’s incredible.”
AFW has paid for the flights and accommodation of buyers from Net-A-Porter, Liberty and Selfridge’s department store in London, Harvey Nichols in Doha and Revolve in the US.
Luxury e-tailer Net-A-Porter is the dream for many labels. Their best performing Australian brand is Zimmermann.
“Australian designers excel at effortless, relaxed and feminine designs,” says Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying officer, Net-A-Porter. “They feel so wearable, yet elevated and they naturally resonate with our customers too.”
“We’re excited to explore some new designers, as well as seeing the new collections from some of our favourite brands.”
Posse, St Agni and Deiji Studios were the brands Chartrand is focused on, which would be great if they were on the official schedule. Plenty of labels are ready to ride on the sequinned coattails of designers participating on the main runway.
Charlotte Glover, womenswear manager for Australian e-tailer The Iconic, is focused on established labels such as Aje, Carla Zampatti, Lee Mathews, Bianca Spender, along with emerging brands Courtney Zheng and Madre Natura. They’re all on the main runway.
“For us, Australian labels are a core part of The Iconic and make up 60 per cent of our general sales,” Glover says. “It’s about finding a brand with right storytelling that’s ready to scale things up.”
Verity is ready and waiting.
Runway highlights day one of Australian Fashion Week
Carla Zampatti
Maticevski
Buluuy Mirrii
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