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Spain’s most popular cities need little introduction. Despite high-profile anti-tourism protests in some of its major cities, the likes of Madrid, Barcelona and Seville are still open to business and indeed to visitors, and it goes without saying that each is home to splendid architecture, classy hotels and superb food.
But what about Spain’s plethora of lesser-known lights? Even if you did bypass Barcelona, which, really, you needn’t do (see below), there are still the cities on this list of Spain’s most populous cities (based on official estimates) from which to choose to enjoy.
There are obviously plenty of other smaller Spanish cities which are well worth a visit too, but if I haven’t included them, it’s because their population figures fall outside my 30 most populous places list, with each entry scored out of 10.
THE WORTH-A-VISITS
ALMERIA
Population 201,946
One of Spain’s warmest cities (even in January, temperatures hover around 17 degrees) has almost all the crowd-pleasing aspects of its better-known rivals – year-round sunshine, a wide, sandy beach with a palm tree-lined promenade and an Old Town dishing up top tapas – but with far fewer tourists. It’s definitely worth considering. The legacy of past grandeur abounds in the 10th-century Moorish fortress high above the city. If you prefer more recent history, there’s an unexpected statue of John Lennon, who visited when he was filming Richard Lester’s 1966 black comedy How I Won The War. 7 out of 10 See turismodealmeria.org
PAMPLONA
Population 208,243
Almost a century after Ernest Hemingway set his 1926 novel The Sun Also Rises in Pamplona, his legacy still looms large in street names, bars and tourist trinkets – not to mention the frankly insane annual San Fermin bull-running festival he famously described. The bulls are best avoided and, anyway, there’s plenty else to see. Come and admire the Gothic cathedral, the baroque town hall, 17th-century noblemen’s houses, pavement cafes and pintxos bars, but visit out of season if you can and head out of town too. Like Barcelona, Pamplona has suffered from overtourism lately. 7 out of 10 See pamplona.es/en
SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE
Population 210,486
The Canary Islands’ regional capital of Santa Cruz de Tenerife has a buzzy, big-city vibe and the largest carnival in the world after Rio de Janeiro. It also has Spain’s sixth-highest skyline, grand parks, plazas and beaches, a show-stopping opera and a concert hall that looks like the Sydney Opera House encased in a crescent moon – plus an up-and-coming fine dining scene. As above, try to get off the beaten track, though. As one of Spain’s busiest cruise ship terminals, overtourism is an issue. 7 out of 10 See visittenerife.es
A CORUNA
Population 249,255
Jutting out into the Atlantic on Spain’s north-western corner, A Coruna is a bit like a salty old sea dog who’s had a much-needed bath. It’s a hit with gastronomes who come for the seafood (the local speciality, paprika-laced octopus, in particular), art lovers who come to wander the medieval lanes of the Old Town and see the house where Picasso spent several years as a child (now a museum), and surfers. 7 out of 10 See coruna.gal
VIGO
Population 292,374
Vigo is supposedly Spain’s rainiest city, but don’t hold that against it. What Galicia’s largest settlement doesn’t have in year-round sunshine, it more than makes up for in spectacular beaches (for the drier, warmer months, of course), Romanesque churches and plazas lined with pavement cafes. As a major fishing port, the seafood is superb, and you’ll get a warm welcome from Vigoans, who tend to be less buttoned up than some of their neighbours inland. 7 out of 10 See turismodevigo.org/en
LAS PALMAS
Population 383,516
Like Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Las Palmas tends to get ignored, overshadowed by the Canaries’ reputation as a fly-and-flop beach destination. Those who do decide to give it a chance discover an Old Town (the Vegueta neighbourhood) teeming with bars and restaurants that are fast garnering the city a reputation as a foodie hotspot, a 15th-century cathedral, excellent museums and friendly locals. 7 out of 10 See grancanaria.com/turismo/en/
ZARAGOZA
Population 691,037
While Spain’s greatest-hits cities hog the limelight, Zaragoza often gets overlooked. It may not have a beach nor the show-stopping grandeur of San Sebastian, but it has got a stonking cathedral – perhaps the country’s finest – with frescoes by Goya. The star of the show, though, is the Old Town (aka “El Tubo”), where bars vie with each other to see who can create the most innovative, tantalising pintxos. 7 out of 10 See zaragoza.es
THE WELL-WORTH-A-VISITS
MALAGA
Population 592,346
For years, Malaga languished in the reputational doldrums, considered little more than an airport gateway to the Costa del Sol. Over the past few years, however, it has been reincarnated as a cultural getaway par excellence. The Picasso Museum celebrates the city’s most famous son, while its second-most famous, actor Antonio Banderas, now owns several restaurants and bars. There is wonderful food elsewhere, plus a Roman amphitheatre and a beach. 8 out of 10 See visita.malaga.eu/en/
PALMA DE MALLORCA
Population 415,940
If you fancy a quieter, smaller version of Barcelona, Palma is just the ticket. It’s got a monumental Gothic cathedral complete with Gaudi-designed stained-glass windows, a leafy Rambla boulevard, hip hotels, fabulous fine dining and excellent art museums. Yes, there are anti-tourism demonstrations, and the summer months are best swerved, but unless you’re stepping off a cruise ship and clogging up the city centre without spending a euro, you’ll be welcome. 8 out 10 See visitpalma.com/en/
OVIEDO
Population 220,027
Charmed by Oviedo’s magnificent medieval plazas, gothic cathedral and chi-chi confectioners selling beautifully packaged bonbons, US movie director Woody Allen famously featured the city in his 2008 feature Vicky Cristina Barcelona, starring Penelope Cruz, Scarlett Johansson and Rebecca Hall. The film showed anyone who didn’t know already just how delightful this small and walkable city – the capital of the Asturias region – is. The locals were so pleased, they erected a statue of Allen. 8 out of 10 See visitoviedo.info
GRANADA
Population 233,532
Granada’s spectacular Alhambra is, understandably, one of Andalusia’s, and indeed Spain’s, most visited sights – and you’d be mad to go to the city without seeing it. But Granada isn’t just about history. Venture out into the area around the city’s acclaimed university, and you can wander streets filled with hip boutiques selling second-hand clothes and vinyl records, as well as bars offering craft beers. The botanical gardens are also crying out to be explored. 8 out of 10 See turismo.granada.org/en
VITORIA-GASTEIZ
Population 257,407
Another contender for the title of Most Enticing Spanish City You’ve Probably Never Heard Of, sustainability-minded Vitoria lies inland, in the shadow of its better-known Basque Country neighbours: San Sebastian to the north and Bilbao to the north-west. It may not boast beaches, but it makes up for it elsewhere, not least in a beautiful medieval Old Town lording it over the rest of the city from a hilltop. The pintxos bars are as good as any in San Sebastian, but with nowhere near as many tourists. 8 out of 10 See vitoria-gasteiz.org
VALLADOLID
Population 299,816
Unlike nearby Segovia and Salamanca, which both regularly top lists of Spain’s most glorious cities, Valladolid rarely gets much of a look in, despite being larger, arguably grander and only an hour by high-speed train from Madrid. It definitely deserves consideration for a city break. Although previously the capital of Spain – not once but twice in the 15th and 16th centuries – Valladolid wears its history relatively lightly, but it’s wonderfully elegant, with several fine renaissance squares. The tapas is also reliably good. 8 out of 10 See turismocastillayleon.com/en
VALENCIA
Population 824,340
Despite 2024’s catastrophic floods, Valencia is once again very much open for business and, indeed, tourism. A few years ago it was Santiago Calatrava’s space-age City of Arts and Sciences that put Valencia on the tourist map; now it’s the city’s commitment to sustainability, with green routes, cycle lanes and other initiatives at every turn. The city has always had exceptional food, or if you’re a sports fan, 2027 will see the opening of a new 20,000-seat stadium. 8 out of 10 See visitvalencia.com/en
MADRID
Population 3,422,416
Madrid is the relatively new kid on the block when it comes to regal cities, at least compared to the grand southern giants of Seville, Cordoba and Granada. Named as Spain’s capital only in the relatively recent 16th century thanks to its location bang in the middle of Spain, the Madrilenos have made up for lost time with magnificent Hapsburgian palaces, grand plazas and one of the world’s greatest art collections in the Prado. I could go on to mention the food, but need I say more? Probably not. 8 out of 10 See esmadrid.com/en
CORDOBA
Population: 324,902
If you just visit Cordoba for the day, you will be missing out. You don’t need me to tell you about the extraordinary, monumental Mezquita cathedral, nor the Jewish quarter, which is one of the best preserved in Europe. Where the coachloads don’t go, however, is to the courtyard-filled, old silversmiths neighbourhood of Azerquia. If you can, visit in May when there’s a kind of open-house event for gardens and patios, so you can admire the bougainvillea and geraniums in all their fuchsia and crimson glory. 8 out of 10 See turismodecordoba.org
SANTANDER
Population: 173,635
This ferry port often gets written off as little more than a slow travel entry point to Spain, with relatively few British visitors choosing to linger. They are usually deterred by the largely unlovely and modern city centre, but Spaniards from elsewhere in the country see it differently, thanks to Santander’s wide, sandy beaches, lively surfing scene and top-notch food; the unfussy seafood restaurants in the Barrio Pesquero fishing district are almost worth the trip alone. It has first-rate contemporary architecture too: the Renzo Piano-designed Centro Botin cultural centre looms over the waterfront like a giant 1960s alarm clock sawn in half. 7 out of 10
See turismo.santander.es/en
BILBAO
Population: 344,127
The titanium swirls of Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum on the banks of the river Nervion famously planted industrial Bilbao on the international tourist map, and the city has never looked back. It may have more grit and industry than nearby San Sebastián, further east along Spain’s Basque coast, but you’ll also find fantastic food, especially in the Old Town, plus Goyas, El Grecos and Gauguins at the impressive Museum of Fine Arts. 8 out of 10 See bilbaoturismo.net
ALICANTE
Population 355,608
Alicante often gets bad press, dismissed as little more than an airport drop-off to neighbouring resorts such as Benidorm. That is to do it a disservice. Holidaying Madrileños cottoned on long ago that Alicante is small and walkable and has a rather lovely Old Town complete with excellent food – not least the rice dishes that the region of Valencia is famous for. The 13th-century castle, baroque church and plentiful beaches aren’t bad either. 8 out of 10 See alicanteturismo.com/en/
THE ABSOLUTE-MUST-VISITS
SAN SEBASTIAN
Population 187,849
The perfect Spanish city? This jewel in the Basque Country’s crown was a favourite holiday hotspot with Spain’s royalty at the beginning of the 20th century, due partly to its sweeping sandy beaches, somewhat cool sea breezes and Belle Epoque architecture, but mainly because it’s absolutely ravishing.
During World War I, Maurice Ravel, Leon Trotsky and Mata Hari visited; these days it is movie stars who flock there, particularly during its annual film festival. For food, it’s impossible to beat, with one of the world’s highest concentrations of Michelin-starred restaurants and first-rate pintxos bars galore. Don’t even think about visiting in the summer if you want to enjoy them in peace – San Sebastian gets busy in peak season. 10 out 10 See sansebastianturismoa.eus/en/
BARCELONA
Population 1,686,208
Don’t be put off by headline-grabbing anti-tourism protests. You can enjoy almost everything Barcelona does best without setting foot in the busiest tourist hotspots. Walk five minutes north-west of leafy Passeig de Gracia, away from the epic queues outside Gaudi’s masterpieces, and you will find tree-lined boulevards teeming with ravishing art nouveau architecture and superb bars and restaurants. All with nary a tourist in sight. 10 out of 10 See barcelonaturisme.com
See Traveller’s comprehensive Barcelona travel guide here.
JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA
Population 212,730
If the siren call of Andalusia’s gypsy culture is luring you to Spain with its gutsy laments and dramatic dances, forget overcrowded Seville and head to Jerez. The city may be most famous as Spain’s sherry capital – and you can barely walk a block without stumbling upon wonderful sherry-producing bodegas, each one more impressive than the last – but Jerez is also the place for fabulously authentic flamenco and the very best classic Andalusian fried fish. 9 out of 10 See turismojerez.com/en/
SEVILLE
Population 686,741
My late mother-in-law was from Seville and never tired of telling anyone who would listen that it was the most beautiful city in the world. Many would agree, and not just the Sevillanos. Most tourists, when they aren’t feasting in some of the country’s best tapas bars, flock to Seville’s orange-tree-laden patios, Giralda Tower and glorious Alcazar Palace, but wander beyond the centre into areas such as the Alameda and Macarena and you will discover the real buzz of Andalusian life. 9 out of 10 See visitasevilla.es/en/
THE VISIT-ONLY-IF-YOU-MUSTS
GIJON
Population 267,706
Gijon, as an industrial city, may not win any beauty contests, but its beaches are as wide and sandy as you could want. Not for nothing do many Spaniards, especially Andalusians, flock there in the summer months, but you’ll seldom hear a word of English. It also has the obligatory web of cobbled streets in its Old Town, the area of Cimadevilla and 17th-century palacios, while its Asturian cider is almost worth the visit alone. 6 out of 10 See gijon.es/en/
ELCHE
Population 235,580
Day-trippers from the Costa Blanca’s more popular beach resorts flock to Elche to ogle its lush UNESCO-listed palm tree forest, right in the middle of the town. They usually depart soon after having done so, meaning you can stay longer and enjoy the city’s botanical gardens, Gothic Basilica and medieval fortress at your leisure. 6 out of 10 See visitelche.com/en/
MURCIA
Population 471,982
Like many of Spain’s great cities, Murcia wears its history on its sleeve, with 13th-century Moorish courtyards, a 14th-century cathedral and baroque churches around almost every corner. Unlike better-known Granada or Seville, though, tourists are fewer and farther between. And in case you think its historical centre could leave it feeling fusty, you would be wrong. Murcia is a university town, so its excellent bars, restaurants and pavement cafes are filled with students rather than tourists.
6 out 10
See turismodemurcia.es/en/
CARTAGENA
Population 216,961
Named after the ancient city of Carthage, this was a major port city during the Roman Empire and still is, albeit a little down at heel. Cartagena is on its way back up, however, and, as well as an excellently preserved Roman amphitheatre, the small-town centre has ornate art nouveau facades and doorways and a Michelin-starred restaurant.
5 out of 10
See turismo.cartagena.es
TERRASSA
Population 224,114
Terrassa is a commuter town for nearby Barcelona. Look out for the spattering of medieval and Romanesque churches, a reconstructed gothic cathedral, another textile and fashion museum and an impressive, Gaudi-inspired tourist office. There’s an acclaimed jazz festival too.
5 out of 10
See visitaterrassa.cat
SABADELL
Population 215,760
Under an hour’s drive north of Barcelona, heading inland, this sleeper town for commuters to the Catalan capital is not without its own claims to fame. It’s still big on industry with modern, Salford-style, mirrored-glass high rises, but also art nouveau architecture, a textiles museum and the obligatory gothic church.
4 out of 10
See visitsabadell.com/en/
CASTELLON DE LA PLANA
Population 179,861
Castellon de la what? This can certainly be considered one of the more obscure cities on the list. The city sits on the little-known Costa de Azahar, between Barcelona to the north and Valencia to the south, and is not without its charms. As well as grand, 19th-century squares, it’s got an impressive but unusual cathedral which boasts a 17th-century bell tower that stands a few metres away from the main structure, as if the builders forgot it was supposed to be part of the same project.
4 out of 10
See castellonturismo.com/en/
Eddi Fiegel, a fluent Spanish speaker, lived in Barcelona for several years. This edited article originally appeared in the Telegraph UK.
