Can’t afford the Orient Express? This train offers a taste of its decadence

It’s rare that I board a train with an 8.45am departure that features generously cushioned armchairs, their upholstery richly decorated with a purple floral design. However, this isn’t a standard commuter service but the British Pullman: a luxurious, art deco-styled train run by Belmond, the operators of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.

Art deco delight.

The British Pullman used to carry passengers from London to the coast for the UK leg of the modern Orient Express journey, until post-Brexit complications derailed that option. But this lovely train still runs regular excursions across England – so I’m joining its Historic Oxford itinerary to the city of dreaming spires.

Champagne tastes.

Having sipped an early morning aperitif in the dedicated lounge on platform 2 of London Victoria, we passengers are delighted to see a succession of gleaming brown-and-cream Pullman carriages slide into place.

The British Pullman is largely a 1920s train, with a string of historic carriages. My carriage, Minerva, was built in 1927 and used on both the Devon Belle and the Golden Arrow boat train. The interior is perfect: a harmonious collection of decorative wood panelling, gleaming brass fittings and elegant lampshades. Adding to the class are our stewards Fatima and James, outfitted in snappy white jackets with broad black lapels. Pairs of comfortable armchairs face each other across tables bearing white tablecloths, tasteful crockery and silverware, and small vases of flowers.

Scenic delights en route to Oxford.

The train departs, crossing the Thames near the former Battersea Power Station, and our food starts to arrive. Somehow, the train contrives to take almost three hours to reach Oxford (usually an hour by rail), so we can enjoy a leisurely meal on the way. A peach Bellini cocktail starts the ball rolling, followed by pastries and the Battersea Breakfast Bowl. James tells me this combination of fresh berries, granola, yoghurt and tangerine syrup contains some ingredients grown by chefs at the train’s depot near that location.

As we head westward beyond the urban sprawl we’re served smoked salmon with caviar, a poached egg and Hollandaise sauce. As I enjoy this dish I spot station names through the window – Staines, Martins Heron, Winnersh Triangle – and wonder what those places are like. At Sunningdale I recall a connection with Agatha Christie. This was where the author once lived, with her golf-mad first husband.

Arriving at Oxford Parkway station, we’re bused to the city centre for a tour led by local guide Kate. It takes just an hour but gives a good overview of key buildings within Oxford’s higgledy-piggledy layout, in which colleges, university facilities and shops are jumbled together in a very English manner.

Deco detailing.

After the tour I make my way through narrow alleys to the Turf Tavern, a hugely atmospheric old pub built just outside the city wall. It’s a delightful collection of small, cosy, low-ceilinged rooms and a scattering of outdoor tables, more like a fairy-tale medieval tavern than anything I could imagine. I order a burger and a beer, basking in the history and good cheer.

I had thought of taking another tour but the weather refuses to deliver the sunny skies and warm temperatures promised in the forecast. I head to another pub, the King’s Arms. Settling into a side room with old leather sofas, I join students drinking, chatting and reading nearby. This is a mellow way to pass the afternoon; I feel suddenly very Oxfordian and highly reluctant to leave.

To dine for … Dinner service.

But there’s a train to catch, so I stroll to Oxford’s main station to reunite with the British Pullman. As we trundle back to London we’re served a delicious three-course meal of Cornish hake, Kentish lamb and glazed lemon tart, with hand-rolled truffles accompanying the after-dinner coffee – a civilised way to ease back into the hectic real world after a charming day away.

THE DETAILS

RIDE
Historic Oxford excursion on the British Pullman from £615 ($1264) a passenger, see belmond.com

FLY
Emirates flies to London via Dubai, see emirates.com

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