Brisbane’s best places to eat and drink

7 hours ago 3

This story is part of Traveller’s Destination Guide to Brisbane.

What you’ve heard about Brisbane’s food and drink scene is true. The Queensland capital is in the midst of an almighty post-pandemic, pre-Olympic boom, and that extends to its restaurants and bars, bakeries and cafes, which have never been more dynamic. From fragrant modern Mexican and Italian occasion dining to some of the best wood-fired food in the country, Brisbane has you covered – you just need to know where to look.

Central

A precisely designed CBD love letter to Hong Kong
From the creators of Rick Shores and Southside (a cracking pan-Asian eatery that’s well worth checking out) comes Central, a brilliant Hong Kong-style restaurant hidden down a stairwell in the guts of the CBD. The design from award-winning J.AR Office is one of a kind, with the best seats in the house on the back wall, looking down into the kitchen as the chefs punch out plates of wagyu chow fun, lychee wood-smoked duck and Shandong crispy chicken. Arguably Brisbane’s hottest restaurant right now.
340 Queen Street, Brisbane. Phone: (07) 3543 9588. See centralbne.com.au

Sushi Room

Elevated Japanese on the ground floor of The Calile
South-east Queensland has had a comparative advantage in sushi restaurants ever since the influx of Japanese investment to the region in the late 1980s. Sushi Room is arguably the best of the modern bunch, chef Shimpei Raikuni exhibiting an astonishing attention to detail over plates of alfonsino and flathead nigiri, and kagoshima rib eye cooked on the hibachi. The restaurant’s 1960s neo-futurist inspired fit-out with its imported 9.3-metre solid hinoki timber counter is the ideal setting for this kind of theatre. Owner Simon Gloftis’ neighbouring Hellenika and SK Steak & Oyster are also excellent.
G7-9 The Calile Hotel, 48 James Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: (07) 3741 5976. See st-albans.com.au

Otto

A classic Italian diner from Sydney finds a new home on the river
The first southern restaurant group to seriously tackle Brisbane’s modern dining scene, Fink took its winsome waterside restaurant Otto to town in 2016 and managed to create something that’s arguably superior to the Sydney original. Chef Will Cowper’s Amalfi-inspired seafood pasta is the focus here – including an unctuous signature champagne lobster spaghettini – but don’t ignore its cracking Rangers Valley beef program. The location, on the river at South Bank, with views straight across to the CBD, is the perfect stage for such fabulous occasion dining.
Shop 1, River Quay, Sidon Street. Phone: (07) 3835 2888. See ottoristorante.com.au/brisbane

Happy Boy

A modern institution a short walk from James Street
Brothers Cameron and Jordan Votan channelled their childhood love of the humble suburban Chinese restaurant to create this rambunctious, keenly priced eatery, which packs out with diners seven nights a week. But what looks simple is, in fact, sophisticated: the menu draws its inspiration from all corners of China, and is matched by a brilliant wine list that presents some of Australia’s best small growers. The restaurant’s neighbouring sister venues – Snack Man and Petite – are also essential. All are just a short stroll from hip James Street.
Under fairy-lit trees, East Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: 0413 246 890. See happyboy.com.au

Agnes

A wood-fired star in a heritage-listed warehouse
Brisbane’s best restaurant? Take a straw poll of local diners and most will tell you it’s Agnes. Wood-fired dining is everywhere now but rarely this considered or precise, chef-owner Ben Williamson and head chef Ryan Carlson tapping the best local, seasonal produce and transforming it over a dramatic open hearth. The heritage-listed setting in a late 19th-century warehouse accounts for the rest of the charm. If you dine at just one Brisbane restaurant, make it Agnes.
22 Agnes Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: (07) 3067 9087. See anyday.com.au/agnes-venue-page

Essa

A James Street local’s pick
A hidden, low-key antidote to the surrounding glamour of James Street, Essa is where those in the know go for their midweek date nights. Chef Phil Marchant is a master at getting out of the way of his seasonal produce – you might eat wood-fired bugs with bay leaf butter and sea herbs, or barbecue spatchcock chicken with mortadella and beluga lentils. Most will chase a table in the moodily detailed dining room, but at the counter opposite the wood fire, watching the chefs in action, is the regulars’ tip. Match it with a drink either before or after at neighbouring Nixon Room.
181 Robertson Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: (07) 3177 1011. See essa.restaurant

Greca

Generous, fast-paced Greek food on the river
Brisbane’s busiest restaurant? Greca is in with a decent shout. It doesn’t matter when you visit, always book ahead. Homey, fast-paced Greek food – think luscious saganaki, oven-baked lamb shoulder and whole barbecue trout – is given a contemporary touch-up in this lively taverna-style eatery at Howard Smith Wharves. Where to sit? On the deck overlooking the river is best, with prime views of the city’s financial district. The Barthelmes Group’s neighbouring sister venue, Yoko, is excellent also.
Howard Smith Wharf Precinct, 3/5 Boundary Street, Brisbane. Phone: (07) 3839 1203. See greca.com.au

Stanley

Elevated Cantonese from a top chef
The king of Brisbane’s Cantonese restaurants, Stanley occupies the heritage-listed former Water Police headquarters at buzzy Howard Smith Wharves. Star chef Louis Tikaram taps his local roots to present exceptional seasonal produce cooked with vibrant Cantonese flavours. You might order soy-poached chicken with Cantonese five spice roast duck, or wok-tossed typhoon shelter mud crab. Hit the restaurant early in the evening to catch the best of the riverside sunset, before heading upstairs for knockoffs at Stans, its vinyl-spinning, cocktail-slinging sister bar.
5 Boundary Street, Brisbane City. Phone: (07) 3558 9418. See stanleyrestaurant.com.au

Coffee Anthology

The yardstick for Brisbane specialty coffee
Rated as the eighth-best coffee shop in the world, Coffee Anthology’s Adam Wang has built his reputation on a laser-focused eye for detail when presenting the best roasters from around the country. Like any coffee spot worth its weight in beans, the brew is available as espresso, filter or batch. Anthology shares its smart city digs behind a refurbished heritage facade with two sister venues: grab a flaky croissant from The Whisk and takeaway your coffee to nearby City Botanic Gardens, or settle in at Fika for one of the best brunches in the CBD.
155 Charlotte Street, Brisbane City. See intersectionfd.com.au

Baja

A lively frontrunner for the city’s best Mexican
Australia’s evolution of Mexican cuisine into something more authentic took a moment to reach Brisbane, but owner-operator Daniel Quinn took the initiative with this freewheeling, brightly detailed restaurant. The food is all braised brisket and carnitas tacos, reef fish aguachile, and charred and pickled sweet corn, the drinks anchored by a list of tequila and mezcal mostly sourced from smaller, independent agave farms in Mexico. The perfect starting point for a night out in party precinct Fortitude Valley.
211 Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: (07) 3625 0069. See bajamodernmexican.com

Exhibition

Essential omakase in a subterranean CBD space
Tim Scott moved on from the acclaimed Joy (also fabulous, if you can nab a booking) to open this precise, Japanese influenced restaurant in the heart of the CBD. Head down the stairs into a moody, subterranean bolthole as Scott channels his vivid creativity into an experience designed to showcase the best local produce (the restaurant’s co-owner is Michael Nguyen of Thai Hoa Grocer – one of the best suppliers of fresh produce in the city). A must-do, particularly when combined with a cocktail from natty Dr Gimlette upstairs.
Basement 2/109 Edward Street, Brisbane. See exhibitionrestaurant.com

Milquetoast

Brilliant wines and British food in a rumpus room-like space
Find the moody laneway opposite the newly opened InterContinental Hotel on Elizabeth Street and you’ve found Milquetoast, which occupies an old garage behind a roller door. Billed as a wine bar first, Milquetoast co-owner James Horsfall has compiled a 70(ish)-bottle list that focuses on small producers, while venue manager Aidan Perkins manages a cocktail list that focuses on higher end spirits. For food, chef Jack Burgess cooks a surprisingly innovative menu that drills down on a revitalised interest in British food. Treat this as a two-hander with rock bar Alice, across the laneway.
Laneway/199 Elizabeth Street, Brisbane. Phone: 0420 740 514. See milquetoastwinebar.com.au

RDA

Peerless French technique meets Australian produce at RDA

Peerless French technique meets Australian produce
Chef-patron Dan Arnold (RDA is short for Restaurant Dan Arnold) has taken years of training in Gallic kitchens and applied them to local produce presented over either a three-course, five-course or “carte blanche” (chef’s selection) menu. It’s often breathtaking stuff that will reward seasoned diners, but is just as appealing to those on a date night. Head to Arnold’s La Cache a Vin in Spring Hill if you’re chasing something more provincial in style.
10/959 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: (07) 3189 2735. See restaurantdanarnold.com

Rothwell’s

Trans-Atlantic dining in sumptuous digs
Inspired by restaurants such as The Wolseley in London, and Musso & Frank Grill in Los Angeles, Rothwell’s is a favourite among the power lunchers from the nearby financial district, but at night dims the lights to welcome occasion diners drawn by chef Ben Russell’s (formerly Aria Brisbane) European-inspired menu. The heritage space, with its sumptuous booths and reams of marble, is the perfect place to celebrate over generous pastas and meat dishes, while knocking back a few martinis (served with a sidecar on ice). Co-owner Dan Clark also operates 1889 Enoteca in Woolloongabba if you’re after Roman comfort food accompanied by an award-winning wine list.
235 Edward Street, Brisbane. Phone: (07) 3038 1169. See rothwellsbrisbane.com.au

Florence

A picture-perfect excuse to explore Brisbane’s bucolic suburbs
Florence occupies an old weatherboard shopfront in bucolic Camp Hill, about 10 minutes from the city. Generous breakfasts and brunches in the cafe’s light-filled dining room are the go here, but it’s worth visiting just for a coffee before hitting up nearby Camp Hill Antique Centre for something to take home with you.
54 Martha Street, Camp Hill. Phone: 0436 469 611. See florence-cafe.com

Naldham House Brasserie

A slick linchpin in a heritage dining precinct
From Dap & Co (Andrew Baturo, Denis Sheahan and Splendour in the Grass creator Paul Piticco) comes this heritage-listed diner, that has hatted chef Doug Kyte (formerly Grill Americano in Melbourne) in the kitchen. Expect a menu of elevated Euro-inspired comfort food in a dining room decked out in a kaleidoscope of patterns from crack designer Anna Spiro. The linchpin in a three-level mini dining precinct, and upstairs you’ll find cocktail bar Club Felix and The Fifty Six, a brilliant new Cantonese restaurant.
33 Felix Street, Brisbane. Phone: (07) 3187 7815. See naldhamhouse.com.au

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