The warmth of the locals in this tropical Asian city is hard to beat

As the bells ring through the square, dozens of young, smiling families spill out of a church. It’s dusk and the tropical dewiness in the air is thick.

I’m looking at one of the oldest churches in the Philippines, the Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral, and I can’t help but feel captivated, the stained-glass windows drawing me closer.

I think back to how – less than 12 hours ago – a part of me had been worried. I had wondered if the pink sunset greeting us as we landed in the city of Cebu was deceiving. We’d all seen recent footage of how the Philippines had been hit by destructive weather. How would that affect my stay?

Cebu is the oldest city in the Philippines, and as you walk through it, you can’t help but feel privileged to be a small part of it, even for a short time.

We visit the Magellan Marker, and the Lapu-Lapu Monument a few blocks away, as part of our walking tour. Against a backdrop of a dark cloud, the statue of Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan towers above us, alongside the native leader Lapu-Lapu, who defeated Spanish soldiers in the 1521 Battle of Mactan.

As we walk, our phones light up with ominous weather warnings; however, our guide tells us not to worry.

We move through the bustling city to the Basilica del Santo Nino. When travelling, I try to visit places of worship to gain a greater understanding. Each time though, I grapple with the overwhelming sense I’m intruding on the most intimate parts of people’s lives. But warm smiles from a group of women welcomes me in.

Such is the nature of many Filipino people. Just weeks after Typhoon Kalmaegi devastated Cebu, in November 2025, killing and injuring hundreds, there is a sense of connection, that things will recover.

And locals seem to welcome travellers with open arms. Filipino warmth is hard to match.

As night falls, fruit of all colours lines the streets as we weave between traffic, the smell of ripe mango in the air. We stop at a local spot, just off Colon Street, the oldest national road in the Philippines built in 1565 during the Spanish colonial period.

A ginger cat paces along the bench near a woven basket of duck eggs, almost calling us in. Here is where my travel group dares to try balut - developing duck embryo. Sold with salt and vinegar, the boiled or steamed street food is eaten from the shell.

My companions gingerly break apart the top of the egg on the bench, before a hesitant taste test. To my shock, standing from the sidelines, it gets good reviews.

It is one of the many dishes regularly recommended by Filipinos, who love their food. Their first mention, if you ask anyone here, is lechon, the famous roasted pork dish. Then there are suggestions of taho (soy drink), sinigang (Filipino stew), puso (hanging rice). And my favourite, maja blanca, a Filipino-style coconut dessert.

Earlier in our four-night trip, we were treated to decadent lechon and 42-day applewood-roasted Peking duck at Mott 32, a Chinese restaurant in Nustar Resort Cebu with views out to Mactan Island.

The pace here in Cebu, while busy, is slower than that of the ever-growing Manila, locals say. Some joke they don’t even know the population of the nation’s capital. And many people who now call Cebu home speak of how congested Manila has become, and how they wanted to leave it.

Cebu, the “queen city of the south” with a population of about a million, enters as the alternative that seems to suit both business and family. Nustar, for example, hosted ministers for the ASEAN Tourism Forum conference earlier this year.

The city has the perfect mix of traditional and new, hotel executives say, and that ethos is noticeable in its food and urban developments.

Jetstar launched its first direct flights from Brisbane to Cebu in December 2025, having identified the Filipino city as a popular destination. Filipinos are the fifth-largest migrant community in Australia and the flights are expected to bridge a gap between Cebu and Queensland.

When we ask hotel executives whether Cebu could be a holiday alternative for Australians used to visiting Bali, there’s uncertainty. There is a heavy focus on attracting tourists from Korea, and a huge push for families to visit resorts. There’s a sense that Cebu is still finding its market.

There is, of course, more to the city than its historical monuments and burgeoning business district. The turquoise waters of the archipelago nation draw thousands of visitors each year and Cebuanos are most proud of their whale shark tours in Oslob, or the thrill of canyoning at Kawasan Falls.

Unfortunately on this trip, the multiple weather warnings that pop up on our phones steer us clear of any water adventures, and we make our way to Crimson Resort and Spa. Its private beach on the edge of Mactan Island looks out to the Hilutungan Channel.

It’s the perfect place to wind down after a busy trip – even if we aren’t able to get out on a boat. Considering schools had also been closed because of the weather, going out on a boat seemed reckless.

We opt for relaxing massages and laps of the infinity pool instead – complete with a foam party and a DJ on some days – and eat grilled watermelon from the Azure Beach Club.

By Saturday morning, we’re standing in Rowena Carpio’s garden. The horticulturalist ambles through rows of eggplant, beetroot, cherry tomatoes, papaya trees, and small pots of chives.

We’ve been allowed into one of three chef’s gardens at the six-hectare property, run by Carpio, where she plucks leaves of lemon basil and Thai mint for us to smell.

She explains the importance of sustainability, and how the produce is used in the resort’s restaurants, such as four-course meals at Michelin-recognised Spanish restaurant Enye, and decadent sushi and sashimi at Japanese restaurant Aka.

As Carpio looks up at a mulberry bush, her smile is one of a long love. For years, she has dealt with the unpredictability of mother nature, having brought many plants back to life.

But Carpio holds the same spirit of many people in Cebu: the resilience to protect the treasures of this tropical paradise.

It’s because of that essence that I’ll return to the Philippines, hopefully when there are less bad weather warnings popping up on my phone.

THE DETAILS

VISIT
Cebu’s historical sites can be seen on a full-day tour that includes a stop at a restaurant. See getyourguide.com

FLY
Jetstar operates a seasonal route to Cebu from Brisbane four times a week from October to May, with connections to other capitals. See jetstar.com/au

STAY
Nustar Resort Cebu has sea-view suites from PHP12,000 ($282). Crimson Resort & Spa has private pool villas from PHP22,000 ($516). See nustar.ph, crimsonhotel.com