The secret delight of Athens that few tourists experience

In the old days, when I discovered Athens’ outdoor cinemas, the whir of film projectors competed with the drone of cicadas and traffic. Occasionally, the celluloid gave a jerk and my eyes, as if forced upwards, glanced beyond the screen to the illuminated glory of the Acropolis.

The backdrop wasn’t always grand. Sometimes I saw only rooftops, trees, or concrete apartment blocks whose residents slumped on balconies, enjoying the movies at awkward angles.

Marilyn Monroe sang, a young Marlon Brando smouldered, and chic French actors kissed and philosophised. An outdoor cinema in summer was such a happy place to be that I didn’t mind the drifting cigarette smoke and slinking cats.

I’ve been back to Athens a few times. No more ruins for me, but I always have time for another movie. The outdoor cinemas are still there. They’ve survived home videos, economic crises, the streaming age and COVID-19.

Indeed, outdoor cinemas are in vogue among young Athenians who give up their smartphones for an evening to soak up an enjoyably sociable, retro experience.

What’s not to like? The cinemas are as much a part of Athenians’ summer landscape as temples and tavernas. The oldest date back over a century. There are more than 60, each with its own personality.

This year, Time Out named the refurbished Cine Paris (Kidathineon 22) among the world’s greatest cinemas. It has a prime rooftop position that eyeballs the Parthenon, and smells of honeysuckle. You can sit and drink sour-cherry cocktails as the sun sets and the silver screen shimmers.

Another classic venue on the far side of the Acropolis is Cine Thisio, though its view isn’t quite as banging. Otherwise, look for cinemas on rooftops if you want outlooks. Mind you, one of my favourites, rooftop Cine Anesis (Kifissias 14), is sandwiched between apartment walls. You won’t see a view, but you can sit in a director’s chair, watch the latest blockbusters, and eat terrific ice creams.

Rooftop Cine Lais (Iera Odos 48) has more open outlooks. It is operated by the Greek Film Archive Foundation and shows Greek independent movies, some from as far back as the silent age. Among the finest is Cine Lila, in the northern neighbourhood of Ano Patisia.

The cinemas play a good mix of movies, but some have specialties, such as French cinema at Cine Dexameni (Plateia Dexamenis 7) in posh Kolonaki district. The most upmarket is a newcomer by the outdoor pool at Hotel Grande Bretagne. It screens Hollywood classics such as How to Steal a Million and Dial M for Murder accompanied by fancy finger food and Lycabettus Hill views.

But Athens’ open-air cinemas are seldom fancy. Many hunker in unglamorous neighbourhoods and feature only rows of folding chairs and food stands. They’re great communal events during which you can settle in among the locals.

You can buy orange juice, popcorn, spanakopita cheese pies and glasses of milky ouzo. In fact, you should: the cinemas have kept low ticket prices and the extras help keep them afloat.

You’ll love cinema-hopping in Athens. There are venues in courtyards, under ancient ruins and, in the case of Cine Alimos (Alimos 174), on a suburban seaside promenade that catches Aegean breezes and the rising moon. Some are in public parks. One of the best, Cine Aigli, is in downtown Zappeion Gardens and serves very classy cocktails.

Best of all might be Cine Zefyros (Troon 36). Chairs sit lopsided on the cobblestones of a courtyard hung with movie posters and old projection equipment. The screen is framed in bougainvillea. The movies are arthouse and independent, or else feature legendary directors from cinema’s golden age: Fellini, Rossellini, Hitchcock.

Zefyros hasn’t changed even as its once-drab surrounds have become a youthful hotspot crowded with bars and chatter-filled restaurants. I hope it never does. It’s a hidden corner of Athens magic that serves up flickering summer dreams.

THE DETAILS

SEE
Athens’ outdoor cinemas operate between May and later September, weather permitting. The Athens Open-Air Film Festival runs in July and August. All but children’s movies are shown in original languages with English and Greek subtitles. See thisisathens.org, aoaff.gr