3 weeks ago
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As the beloved wine bar on Rathdowne Street prepares to move to its new home in spring, it’s hired a gun chef who brings classical French training and bold ideas to a much bigger space.
Long-standing wine bar Gerald’s has been a fixture of Carlton North for close to 20 years, amassing fans for its sharp drinks, louche style and charming Old World feel. Food, while part of the package, has typically been simple and drink-friendly plates such as Caprese salad, grilled fish and braised beef cheek.
That looks set to change when the bar moves to new, much larger premises on Lygon Street in Carlton North this spring.
Matt Podbury, former chef-owner of hatted bistro La Cachette in Geelong, will head up the kitchen, bringing serious French technique to his new gig. Podbury has worked at Michelin-starred Lyle’s in London, Captain Moonlite in Anglesea and Smith St Bistrot in Collingwood.
As well as a dining room, he’ll oversee a bar, private dining and events at Gerald’s 2.0.
The kitchen will buy whole animals, including fish, and break them down in-house to get the most out of each. Sauces will feature strongly. The venue is hiring a pastry chef as well as six other chef roles.
Podbury was born in Geelong and his first venue – which he ran with his partner, sister and father – was awarded a chef’s hat every year from 2022 until it closed in August 2024.
He and his partner, Joanna Karlin (also a chef), changed the menu every three weeks, serving modern bistronomy-inspired dishes such as roast chicken and mashed potato lightened with whey; mackerel with horseradish cream; and vanilla flan with blood orange marmalade.
Gerald Diffey and Mario Di Ienno opened Gerald’s in 2006 in Rathdowne Village, and it’s gone on to win many awards, including from The Age Good Food Guide.
Reviewing the bar in 2024, The Age’s chief critic Besha Rodell wrote, “Institutions like this are priceless, unrankable, above the fray. I can’t imagine Melbourne without Gerald’s, and I hope I never have to”.
Gerald’s forthcoming home was occupied from 2004 to 2024 by Italian providore Enoteca Sileno, but the site is perhaps best remembered as the Rising Sun Hotel, closely linked with Carlton Football Club and, later, Melbourne’s live music scene.
October is the advertised opening date of the new Gerald’s and building works are underway. Until then, the bar continues to trade at its current location on Rathdowne Street.
Podbury and the Gerald’s team declined to comment.
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