The gloves are off at this special-occasion restaurant, and that’s a good thing

What is the purpose of a luxury hotel restaurant? Should it be ambitious, a draw for accolades and food obsessives, a crown jewel for the property? Or should it cater primarily to the kind of wealthy travellers who stay in these types of hotels, who often aren’t looking for creativity and excitement but prefer straightforward luxury?

I suspect that these questions and conflicting responses are at the heart of the changing offering at Atria, the restaurant located on the 80th floor of the Ritz-Carlton building on the corner of Lonsdale and Spencer streets. Originally opened in 2023 with chef Mark Best as culinary adviser, Atria was an impressive project, from its menu that focused on Indigenous seasons and ingredients to its strong beverage program to its luxe decor, which was needed to match the stunning view of Melbourne laid out beyond the floor-to-ceiling windows.

There was a slight disconnect between the ambition of the offering and the style of service, which seemed to be rooted in corporate training over heartfelt professionalism. The servers wore weird white gloves and delivered rote monologues about every dish, but seemed anxious and unsteady. One night, I waited over an hour for food without anyone noticing.

A savoury cookie stuffed with gruyere custard.Jason South

Best stepped away from the project after a few months, and in June of this year Paul Lewis came on as executive chef. Lewis’ background is very much tied to the luxury hotel world, having worked as culinary director at one of the Maldives’ most exclusive resorts, among other brand and travel-focused gigs.

His new spring menu has nods to the Australiana that used to be the focus, but mostly in the procurement of ingredients and not the cooking itself, which is far more restrained and classical. Yes, there’s a wallaby tartare, and macadamia on the local pork, but there’s also steak with lobster bearnaise.

This is not to say there’s no creativity at play. Ruby slices of lightly cured tuna come daubed with a cream made from tuna bone and dashi, laying over pickled citrus and a subtle shiitake oil. A savoury cookie in the shape of a rose is filled with subtle (maybe too subtle) custard made from gruyere, and a lemon thyme gel.

Luxe indulgence: Dry-aged Great Ocean duck.Jason South

But the best dishes are more familiar. You’d be hard pressed to find a better cooked piece of duck than the one served here, its skin expertly rendered and crisped, served with pickled blackberry and a sauce of aniseed and myrtle. Alongside a pile of fat snappy asparagus bathed in a blackened lemon vinaigrette, it’s difficult to argue with this version of luxe indulgence.

Speaking of luxe indulgence, there’s a half rock lobster that costs $170 and is drenched in a mandarin, tomato and finger lime sauce that is so rich and opulent that I forgave the fact it was slightly undercooked and very hard to wrestle from its shell. Even so, the fresh sweetness shone through.

I’m not sure dessert is as evolved. A roasted strawberry tart felt a little flabby – the strawberries might have been better fresh, the white chocolate yoghurt cream they sat atop overwhelming and a bit cloying. As a small bite for a banquet it probably works.

Roasted strawberry tart with white chocolate yoghurt cream.Jason South

At the same time, the service has improved greatly. Gone are the weird white gloves; servers are well trained and allowed to show a little more personality. Sommelier James Er, who recently came on board from working in vineyards across Victoria, is a smart and thoughtful guide when discussing the 80-plus page wine list.

Atria is a good option for a special occasion for a parent or partner who just wants a nice view, a grand but relatively quiet room, and a well-cooked steak.

Atria is now delivering something slightly less interesting and probably far more appropriate for the space and the clientele it’s likely to attract. It feels intended for someone who knows good cooking and demands high quality but isn’t necessarily wanting to think too hard about dinner. For this reason, too, Atria is a good option for a certain type of special occasion – one for a parent or partner who just wants a nice view, a grand but relatively quiet room, and a well-cooked steak.

So, what is a fancy hotel restaurant supposed to do? It might be this. Good wine, smart cooking, points of interest for the more food-obsessed guests, familiar and well-executed luxury for the weary business traveller – and a stunning view for all of the above.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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