October 20, 2025 — 10:00am
This southern city is modest in size but has a lively vibe, interesting history and a lovely setting amid big, beautiful landscapes.
Who goes there
Dunedin is a regular stop on New Zealand cruises, which usually originate in Auckland or across The Ditch in Sydney or Melbourne. You have your choice of cruise lines, from the likes of Royal Caribbean, Celebrity and Princess to Viking and Silversea. Expedition lines such as Aurora, Ponant and New Zealand company Heritage Expeditions also visit.
Sail on in
Dunedin sits at the end of 25-kilometre-long Otago Harbour, flanked on one side by the Otago Peninsula and entered through a narrow gap. Get up on deck for the arrival because the shoreline is so close you feel you could lean over the railings and pat a sheep. You may well see albatross swooping above. This is one of New Zealand’s loveliest harbours, although the arrival in workaday Port Chalmers is no great shakes.
Berth rites
Port Chalmers, 13 kilometres from Dunedin, isn’t the most convenient of places, so best plan out your day. The terminal is well-run by port and volunteer staff and has free Wi-Fi and tourist information. Shuttles will take you into town, depositing and picking you up at local landmark The Octagon. If you’re on a small ship you’re in luck, as small vessels can sail further up the bay and dock a kilometre from the city centre.
Going ashore
Dunedin has only 134,000 residents but its 25,000 university students give it an agreeable liveliness. Its architectural heritage, not to mention chilly winds, might remind you of Edinburgh. Check out the whimsical colonial-era train station with its stained glass and floor mosaics, then visit Toitu Otago Settlers Museum and Otago Peninsula Museum to fill in the history. You’ll also want to check out the street art that splashes the city centre with striking colour.
Don’t miss
Olveston Historic Home, built in 1906 for Dunedin businessman and philanthropist David Theomin and his family, is an impressive 35-room Edwardian mansion groaning with carved oak and packed with period furniture and knickknacks that include Japanese ceramics and historical weapons. You’ll get an upstairs-downstairs look that includes the servants’ quarters. Guides are very informative.
Get active
St Clair, a hop from central Dunedin, has a sweeping beach, fine promenade and coastal walks. Surfers will find reliable waves. The water is invigoratingly nippy, but you can also plunge into the saltwater swimming pool, which is nicely heated to revive your tingling extremities. Dunedin is surrounded by glorious hiking and cycling trails, among which the Otago Central Rail Trail offers 152 kilometres of cycle track.
Best bites
There’s a lot going on in Dunedin’s local food scene. Artisan producers sell chocolate, cheese, honey, coffee and more, and the town has plenty of restaurants and food trucks. Speight’s Brewery, established in 1876, is New Zealand’s oldest; you can tour the heritage building and enjoy a beer tasting afterwards. It is however only one of several breweries, and you can also visit No. 8 Distillery (gin and rum) and Dunedin Craft Distillers (gin and vodka).
Further afield
A popular excursion is to Lanarch Castle, an 1871 Gothic revival mansion in the hills beyond the city with gardens and magnificent views. Otago Peninsula is home to seals, sea lions, penguins and a breeding colony of royal albatross. Orokonui Ecosanctuary houses native creatures behind a predator-proof fence, including kiwis, bellbirds, skinks and the lizard-like tuatara. If you enjoy railways or picturesque scenery, another option is Taieri Gorge Railway, which takes you out of Dunedin into a narrow river gorge through 10 tunnels and over a spectacular viaduct.
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Brian Johnston seemed destined to become a travel writer: he is an Irishman born in Nigeria and raised in Switzerland, who has lived in Britain and China and now calls Australia home.