Out-of-the-way Brisbane stay is worth discovering

4 hours ago 2

Jim Darby

The hotel: Spicers Balfour Brisbane

Evening light in the courtyard of the Balfour Kitchen & Bar.

Check-in

As Brisbane motors along towards the 2032 Olympics, the gentrification of its inner suburbs also motors along at pace. They’re a bit of a pair, New Farm and “The Valley” or Fortitude Valley, with old homes getting fancy facelifts and new ones making a smart appearance. Restaurants and bars are popping up here and there, smart boutiques line the hipper streets. Tucked in among it all at Balfour Street, New Farm, is a boutique hotel in the Spicers stable known as Spicers Balfour Brisbane. There’s a warm welcome at reception which comes with the low-down on the locality. No need for keys – you get your codes and are shown to your room.

The entrance to Spicers Balfour Brisbane.
And the entrance to the art deco-style residence, Simla.

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The look

There’s a dual personality here, but as much as they contrast, the two sides complement each other well. Reception, the Balfour Kitchen & Bar, rooftop bar and some of the guest rooms are in a Queenslander-style building with a welcoming courtyard and breezy terrace at 37 Balfour Street. A few doors down at number 17 is a beautiful art deco-style residence called Simla, with king rooms and suites in various configurations. Both venues are tucked in behind the kind of lush and healthy greenery you expect of subtropical Brisbane.

The room

Inside a king suite at Simla.

We’re in art deco Simla and the suite, number 14, faces the street with a sun room and leadlight windows to see it all through. Along with a desk, coffee table and armchairs, the sunroom has a kitchenette, fridge, mini bar and coffee making facilities. The bathroom is huge, and in deco style, comes with subway-style tiles and a freestanding bath with shiny freestanding plumbing. Slightly, and thankfully, out of the era is a big walk-in shower. The bed is a king, or king singles if you prefer, and has teardrop-shaped pendant lights hanging from the ceiling either side of the bed. Storage and hanging space are adequate.

Food + drink

The rooftop bar with the Story Bridge lit purple in the distance.

Breakfast is served in the shade on the deck at the Balfour Kitchen & Bar with seasonal fruit for starters and then eggs and accompaniments to your liking, or avocado toast or maybe mushrooms. The chef bakes all the bread in house and it’s delicious. We also had dinner on the deck – the chef’s focaccia with whipped butter for starters, with a crisp crust and fluffy interior. The set menu included scallops for entree and wagyu beef for main, and one of the sides outshone even the excellent beef – a butternut squash cooked with a light tempura-style batter. The finishing touch was a dark chocolate and peppermint roulade with vanilla bean ice cream. Good food in a fine setting. There’s also a rooftop bar for drinks with a view (all the way to the colourful Story Bridge) and a library for some quiet contemplation.

Out + about

Boardwalk along the river from Howard Smith Wharves to New Farm.Courtney Kruk

There are shops around the corner for essentials, but there are many Brisbane highlights just a short walk away. Wander 10 to 15 minutes one way and you have Fortitude Valley’s James Street, home to swish boutiques and some very good restaurants – we had lunch at The Green for inspired Lebanese food, fresh and full of flavour. Head off another way, through a small park with big-city views, and an elevator will take you down to river level and the Howard Smith Wharves for Felons Brewing, Italian restaurants and plenty of room to move. There are river walks either way, or jump on the ferry here and take yourself on the cheapest river tour around – 50 cents a ride.

The verdict

Here, you’re removed from the city chaos but close enough to everything a big riverside city offers. Intimate, but luxurious this is a sublime boutique Brisbane stay, delivered with Spicers’ signature relaxed, but professional, hospitality.

Essentials

Rooms from $299 a night, 37 Balfour Street, New Farm. Phone 1300 597 540; see spicersretreats.com

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

Highlight
I’m a huge fan of the art deco period in architecture – here they’ve done it admirable justice.

Lowlight
A room safe is a handy item for your valuables – I like one that’s big enough for a laptop, but these are about paperback size.

The writer was a guest of Spicers Balfour Brisbane.

Jim DarbyJim Darby is a senior producer for Traveller and the author of White Gold, a history of Australia in winter sports.Connect via X or email.

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