My dolphin swim overseas was horrible. I tried it again in Australia

3 hours ago 1

Craig Platt

It was 2016, and I was staying at a luxury hotel in Mauritius when one of the local experiences caught my eye – swimming with wild dolphins. It sounded great, so I signed up and, early the next morning, a small boat took my partner and me on the short journey to the local bay where the animals resided.

But upon arrival, I was dismayed to see the bay crowded with dozens of other boats, all packed with tourists aiming to do the same thing we were. What followed was a disturbing experience where the boats would locate the pod, rush to get ahead of it and the tourists would jump in the water, en masse, and attempt to get close. Then they would all climb back into the boats, overtake the dolphins again and the same thing was repeated. It wasn’t pleasant for me or, as far as I could tell, for the dolphins.

Boarding the boat in Rockingham, near Perth.Tourism Australia

Back in Australia, I’ve decided to give dolphin swimming another shot. This time it’s going to be different. I’m in Perth and heading to Shoalwater Bay at Rockingham, about 45 minutes south of the city. Here just one operator, Perth Wildlife Encounters, is licensed to run dolphin swims.

It’s a bright, sunny morning as I join a group of other visitors heading down the nearby jetty, where our transport awaits for our 8am departure.

Perth Wildlife Encounters’ story begins in 1989, when founder Terry Howson, at just 23, became interested in Rockingham’s local pod, swimming with them off his family’s small boat. Over time, the dolphins grew more interested in Howson, and eventually he began sharing his experience with others. Since then, the business has won numerous tourism awards and grown to include other wildlife experiences in the area.

Ready to enter the water.Tourism Australia

We float in two groups, towed by guides using aqua scooters.

But the main attraction remains the dolphins. Soon we’re on board, fitted with wetsuits and receiving a briefing. Though there’s no guarantee we’ll find the dolphins, our guide, Jackson, is confident they’re here, somewhere. They live in a “fission-fusion” society, we’re told, meaning pod structures are not permanent – groups separate, merge, and then separate again regularly.

It doesn’t take long before a small pod is spotted. But after closely observing them through binoculars, Jackson determines they’re feeding and doesn’t want to disturb them. Already the contrast with my previous swim experience is apparent.

The key, we’re told, is not to chase them, but for the dolphins to come to us. The animals make the choice. Sure enough, a few minutes later, another pod is spotted and some break away, heading towards our boat.

We’re split into four groups, colour-coded by the straps on our wetsuits. Within each group, we’re given a number that determines the order we’ll get in the water. To keep the situation controlled, we’re instructed to hold on to the strap of the person in front and simply float. The leader of our group, one of the crew, will use an aqua scooter to tow us along in a chain.

The dolphins are curious and playful.

After the swim, the dolphins ride the wake of the boat.Tourism Australia

My turn arrives. Snorkel and flippers on, I gently jump into the water, following the person in front. As it happens, we don’t really need the flippers or the scooter’s tow. We aren’t chasing anyone. The dolphins swim around and under us, interacting with another crew member who dives deeper under the water using another scooter. The animals look like they’re having as much fun as we are, clicking, blowing bubbles and twisting under the water.

Our group gets in and out several times, with our leader changing the order so everyone gets a turn near the front. After our fill of swimming, we fill up on lunch with sandwiches, fruit, salad and antipasto served on board.

We may be done with the dolphins, but they aren’t done with us. The captain revs the engine to speed up and a dozen or so chase after us, riding our wake. We watch with delight as they surf the waves behind us, leaping into the air and occasionally flipping onto their sides to create a large splash.

It’s a lesson that engaging in animal tourism responsibly is possible, provided the animals are respected. They can even enjoy it.

The details

The dolphin swim operates daily, weather and minimum bookings permitting. It costs $299 per person if you meet the boat in Rockingham at 8am. Transfers from Perth can be arranged at extra cost. The dolphin swim is closed over winter, but wildlife cruises still operate. See dolphins.com.au

The writer travelled as a guest of Tourism WA.

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Craig Platt is the digital editor of Traveller and has had responsibility for the travel content on the Sydney Morning Herald, The Age, Brisbane Times and WAtoday digital products since 2007. He has worked in journalism for more than 25 years. Craig has a strong interest in aviation and airlines, as well as wildlife tourism and (increasingly) family travel. He has visited every continent, including once visiting six of the seven in a single year (he missed Africa).