Lessons from Europe’s birthplace of wine (and hangovers)

Given that Georgia is the birthplace of wine, one might also argue it’s the birthplace of hangovers.

It sure felt that way when I was there because it became impossible to tell when one hangover finished and the next was about to begin.

The problem is that Georgians are ferociously hospitable. It doesn’t matter where you go in the shadow of the Caucasus Mountains, someone will inevitably try to get you drunk. They love sharing their culture and their culture is nothing if not deeply rooted in food, wine and religion.

This guide will help you with the basics of drinking in Georgia and save you from praying to any porcelain gods while you’re there.

Let’s start with the wine. In Georgia, it’s more than a drink, it’s part of a family’s history. Many Georgians I spoke to made wine in their family: a vine trellis to them is a Hills Hoist to us. Go outside the capital, Tbilisi, and nearly every home’s yard is festooned with growing grapes.

Given that the country is full of winemakers, it stands to reason that the wine there is exceptional. Not only is it exceptional but the pours are exceptionally generous, and be warned that a casual “two glasses of wine with dinner” can often mean drinking more than half a bottle.

Then you have a drink called chacha, and while it might sound like an exotic dance, it’s actually a gateway to hell. It’s a pomace brandy that tastes like it cleans combustion engines and the next day it will make you feel like something crawled into your head and died.

Know that whenever you order a shot of chacha, it is never just one shot of chacha; it’s three. The first one you pay for, the second is free and the third will be sent over by a random table of Georgians who have the erroneous belief that anything less than three shots isn’t enough.

Like any other rapidly developing country, you’ll find no shortage of cocktail and craft beer bars in the city. But if you want to experience the true essence of their drinking culture, then you have to go to a supra.

The word supra translates to “tablecloth” and is essentially a Georgian feast for friends and family to mark special occasions. They’re steeped in tradition and these traditions are enforced by a toastmaster called a tamada (a tyrannical master of ceremonies who ensures all guests are well lubricated).

Tamadas are chosen by hosts for their eloquence and their ability to handle industrial quantities of alcohol without appearing to be drunk. And for good reason, too, as some of these supras can have upwards of 50 toasts, many of which involve drinking bolo mde (“until the end”) of your glass.

These toasts are about some serious things, too, so it’s important to finish your drink if the tamada calls for it. Things like family, old spirits and those who have passed on. There are toasts to peace and to the future of children but no toast is more important than the toast to God, which is always the first toast at any supra.

And while there is a joke in there somewhere about toasting to Jesus before you get too drunk, know that the only thing Georgians take more seriously than their wine is their religion.

These supras are not typically tourist attractions. Some tours can give you the supra experience but the best supras are the ones you share with locals. This means making friends or staying at a family-run guest house, where you can experience a supra without it having a touristic nature.

If you are lucky enough to attend a supra and the tamada lets you make a toast, know that your toast should come from the heart, and you should treat the occasion with the respect and veneration that these ancient traditions deserve.

In the spirit of this, I’d like to make a toast to Georgia. For welcoming me into the country, sharing in its traditions and leaving me with hazy memories that will last for much longer than any of my hangovers ever could.

THE DETAILS

FLY
Qatar Airways offers flights to Tbilisi, with a connection in Doha. See qatarairways.com

EAT + DRINK
If you want to experience a supra, check the tours at DADI wine bar and shop. It not only sells exceptional wines but hosts tours and wine events, many of which involve a supra. See dadi.wine

Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter

Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.