Kikanbo

This Tokyo-born ramen shop joins several other Japanese chains which have flocked to Melbourne, including Hakata Gensuke, Ippudo and Mensho. Dark, dramatic interiors – the walls lined with oni (Japanese demon) masks – and a thumping soundtrack of traditional drums offer a taste of what’s to come: devilishly spicy noodles built around chilli and sansho pepper, which brings a tongue-tingling sensation similar to Sichuan peppercorn.

Noodles are made in-house and served in a miso-based pork, chicken and fish broth that’s simmered for more than 10 hours until funky and complex. Spice levels are up to the diner. Each bowl is topped with slow-cooked barbecued pork belly, though the Melbourne shop also offers a soup of wagyu broth and Victorian Angus beef. Prepare to queue.

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