It’s easy to find dumplings in the CBD. But this ‘smashing’ new spot is doing things differently

It’s easy to find dumplings in Melbourne. That queue? They’re waiting for dumplings. Those deft fingers? They’re folding dumplings. This appetite? I’ll satisfy it with dumplings.

In a busy landscape, Hoppy Dumpling is doing something different: it’s the fast-casual Chinese dumpling joint reimagined with an eye on contemporary Aussie pubs.

The shopfront setting is a bit swank, with gold-rimmed, faux-marble tables ringed by comfy armchairs. A long wall of fridges is stacked with local and imported craft beer (and so-cringe-they’re-trending cans, such as XXXX). A shelf ringing the walls is lined with empty wine and whisky bottles, signalling big nights and happy conversations.

Along with bottomless pu’er tea, there’s strawberry matcha and cold-brew coffee with salted cream topping, like you’d find in next-wave cafes. The condiment station has a basket of free, help-yourself prawn crackers: you’ll need willpower.

I’m not sure there’s another place in Melbourne where you can pair hazy IPA with xiao long bao.

The bathroom amenities include cotton buds and dental-floss picks. Everything is a little extra. That’s not to say it’s fancy: there’s sport on TV and ordering is via QR codes, though helpful and friendly staff are on hand to talk through queries. The pricing is keen. And you can come as you are: solo, with kids or a bunch of mates.

A glassed kitchen makes it easy to see that everything is made from scratch. Ingredients are high-quality and the dumpling skins are crafted from a bespoke flour mix that allows for translucent wrappers that are strong enough to hold their fillings and have a pleasant snap when you bite them.

It’s all winners among the 15 types of steamed, fried and boiled dumplings, but we can focus on xiao long bao as they’re always a good test. The famous Shanghainese pork dumplings are folded with an aspic jelly that melts when steamed, turning them soupy when hot. These are an exquisite example of the genre, the liquid element rich but clean, the meat filling pert and perfectly seasoned.

Beyond dumplings, dan dan noodles are a spicy winner, braised lettuce is delicate yet crunchy, and the shredded potato is my new favourite shoestring fry.

Open since September, this is owner Tianxiang Zhao’s first restaurant (he’s also a cherry farmer in Tasmania). The place was designed to solve a particular problem of his: he loved pubs for craft beer, he visited restaurants for dumplings, but it was hard to combine his two passions under one roof.

Originally from Jilin in China’s north-east, Zhao has a nostalgic connection with dumplings, not only because he often made them with his family but also because of the way they look. For example, the lacy batter fringing the wagyu pan-fried dumplings recalls Jilin’s winter snowflakes.

Hoppy’s dumplings also express Zhao’s love for Melbourne’s diverse tapestry: there are vegetarian parcels, a version with chicken and corn you’d never find back home, and some with prawn because it’s the perfect protein for those seeking that gym body.

With Lunar New Year starting on February 17, it’s an auspicious time to fill a table with tasty dumpling morsels, celebrating togetherness and calling in good fortune for the Year of the Fire Horse. Maybe you’ll also be toasting your luck in finding a smashing new dumpling restaurant.

This review was originally published in Good Weekend magazine.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.