If you were to imagine the ideal resort in paradise, this would be it

If you were to paint a picture in your mind of the ideal, romantic Fijian resort, what features would you include?

A clear lagoon brimming with colourful fish, perhaps. A generous curve of beach with pale sand. Overwater bungalows. Private dining options and private cabanas. A beachfront spa. Torch-lit bars serving well-crafted cocktails. Warm Fijian smiles and heartfelt service.

Likuliku Lagoon Resort in the Mamanuca group of islands fits the description perfectly. The adults-only resort has been open almost 19 years, so it has had time to get it right. It’s the benchmark of rustic luxury against which the newer resorts need to measure up.

Likuliku was the first resort in Fiji to feature overwater bures and it still has the only authentic bungalows on a natural lagoon. They’re understandably popular with honeymoon couples and are booked out several months ahead.

But the resort is not resting on its laurels. A $7 million revitalisation project, completed in late 2025, has given Likuliku a major refresh without disturbing its serene natural ambience.

The culinary experience has been enhanced with the addition of a fine dining concept restaurant and there’s a new conservation hub where guests can learn about initiatives such as the project to save the endangered Fiji crested iguana. (One of the resort’s resident reptiles, Ratu Malolo, is friendly enough to sit on your shoulder.)

Eleven of the 29 beachfront bures now have private plunge pools, making them an attractive option if you miss out on one of the coveted overwater ones. I’m happy as a clam in Deluxe Beachfront Bure 38, steps from the coral-strewn, soft-sand beach and tidal lagoon.

The bure has a deep plunge pool and a shaded day bed from which I can gaze at the remarkably clear lagoon and the volcanic shapes of islands in the distance.

Inside, the airy, traditional-style bure flows seamlessly from a generous sitting room to bedroom to a massive bathroom with indoor and outdoor showers. I can see the lagoon from every vantage point through expansive glass doors to the deck.

Likuliku and neighbouring Malolo Island Resort are both properties of Fijian-owned Ahura Resorts, which years ago snapped up two of the best locations in the Mamanuca group, also the location for luxury resorts Six Senses and Castaway Island. Many Likuliku honeymooners transition to family-friendly Malolo once they’ve had children.

It’s not all honeymooners on Likuliku when I visit. A good percentage of guests are older couples with anniversaries and special birthdays, although some don’t need an excuse. One couple has visited 26 times. Some have travelled from as far as Finland.

I can see why. The resort is a lovely blend of rustic and sophisticated, the refreshed contemporary decor symbiotic with the beauty of the island. The main restaurant, Fijiana, opens to the sea breeze and spills over multiple terraces, with intimate dining spots on the shore.

Masima Bar, a classic beach bar above the jetty, soon becomes a favourite for its view of the lagoon. The resort’s cultural activities, such as kava ceremonies and choral singing, such an important part of any Fijian visit, happen here.

Upstairs in the main building, Dua Tale Bar (meaning “one more” in Fijian) is a breezy hangout in the evening, serving signature cocktails for Saluwaki restaurant, which it adjoins. (Try a “Sakura” of Blue Turtle Gin, watermelon and rosé.)

Saluwaki is the jewel in the resort’s revitalisation. Overseen by group executive chef Gregory Llewellyn, the fine dining experience is available for guests staying three nights or more and limited to one visit per stay.

During my designated dinner, the skies flash with lightning, but it’s fun to watch nature’s show from the open-air terrace. The menu proposes a selection of 19 different small plates with an Asian fusion bent, from which the guests choose six. Options include handmade potato noodles with soft egg, miso-glazed yellowtail, steamed zucchini blossoms or a superb wagyu striploin on a hibachi grill.

Likuliku’s food across all the outlets is indulgent but always skews to healthy choices and is cooked with finesse, which is not always the case in Fiji. The weekly traditional Lovo includes a sensationally fresh sushi-sashimi station along with the juicy roast meats.

Lunch and dinner at Fijiana involve four-course set menus that change each day. Breakfast offers both buffet and a la carte. Poolside dining is more casual, serving up pizzas, salads and burgers. (The fish burgers are delectable.)

There’s a lot to do if you want to drag yourself away from the beautiful horizon pool or your cabana. Highlights include a private picnic on Mociu or “Honeymoon” island, an idyllic spot across the lagoon, and a boat trip hopping between the different islands of the Mamanucas.

It’s all very dreamy. You don’t even need to be on your honeymoon.

THE DETAILS

STAY
A Beachfront Bure costs from $FJ2747 ($1753) a night; an overwater bure from $FJ4015 a night. Tariff includes three gourmet meals a day and one dinner in Saluwaki. Land activities and non-motorised water activities are complimentary. See likulikulagoon.com

FLY
Fiji Airways flies directly to Nadi from Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Canberra, Cairns and Brisbane. See fijiairways.com

The writer was a guest of Likuliku Lagoon Resort.