Giant resort is the size of a suburb, but it will still win your heart

The hotel

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa

Check-in

An evening arrival, a long flight and a tedious drive from Phuket add up to frazzled nerves, but the moment we step into the grand lobby, anxiety evaporates. Check-in is completed on one of the lobby sofas rather than at the reception desk. Aromatic tea and chilled facecloths further restore our spirits. With 424 rooms and villas, this JW Marriott property is the size of a small suburb but feels more like an oasis, with lush gardens and two enormous swimming pools. Well-trained staff are the component that keeps this place ticking over like a Swiss timepiece with grace, charm and patience.

The look

Fresh from a major redevelopment, which added 127 rooms and villas, the resort gracefully blends traditional Thai design with the comforts of a five-star international destination. The distinctive peaked tiled roofs give the reception building a whimsical air. The six distinct accommodation wings are linked by extensive waterways – a key feature – and the gardens are tended by an army of sweepers. Despite its sprawling size, the property feels surprisingly intimate, especially at night, when the walkways are subtly lit under a dreamy tropical sky.

The room

Having ample space is a priority when you’re spending 10 days in a resort with a boisterous young boy. Our Deluxe Room With Lagoon Pool Access met the brief perfectly with a vast king bed, good-sized bathroom, separate sitting area and ample storage. A small private balcony provided access to the resort’s famous canal-style waterway – and views of the aquatic play zone. The room itself is a blend of Asian and European elements, with a sober colour scheme of white, fawn and grey with dark lacquered flooring. A few well-chosen Thai artefacts, including discreet wall hangings, provide a sense of place. Since we arrived during the rainy season, the room’s air-conditioning and ceiling fans proved invaluable, as did the small fridge and coffee and tea-making facilities. There was ample free bottled water and the room was serviced daily.

Food + drink

With 11 restaurants, bars and casual dining experiences on site, JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa lives up to its billing as “a destination within a destination”. In addition to its four signature restaurants – Olive (Italian), Ta-Krai (Thai), Sakura (Japanese) and Drift (Mediterranean & Middle Eastern) – the resort offers themed culinary nights, cooking classes and private barbecues. Begin your day at the impressive breakfast buffet overlooking the Andaman Sea. For lunch, wander down to the Beach Bar or grab a quick snack at The Deli, while Drift Beach Bar is the ideal setting for a sundowner, complete with tropical breezes and lapping surf.

Out + about

If you can drag yourself away from the resort pool, this region offers plenty of distractions such as snorkelling expeditions to Koh Tapu (James Bond Island), bamboo rafting at Kiang Koo Creek and visits to Takua Pa Old Town. For the more adventurous there are regular Muay Thai bouts at the Khao Lak Boxing Stadium. The resort offers guided bike tours to a local Buddhist temple and various nature-based excursions or golf getaways. Better still, hire a reliable, English-speaking cab driver. Ours organised all our shopping trips and excursions, including a visit to the local elephant home. The resort is around three kilometres north of Khao Lak village but the dining there is mediocre – a much better option is Pam’s Restaurant, which serves authentic regional cuisine under the watchful eye of its owner. We ate there twice and still reminisce about the food.

The verdict

Even if you are not a fan of larger properties, this beachfront resort will win your heart. The service and food are faultless and there is a huge range of activities. For such a high-quality resort, the tariff is surprisingly modest.

Essentials

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa, 41/12 Moo 3 Khuk Khak, Takua Pa District, Phang Nga, Thailand, 82220; Deluxe rooms from $253 a night. See marriott.com.

Our score out of five

★★★★1/2

Highlight

For me, throwing open the doors of the room each morning and plunging into the pool. For my wife, the treatments at Quan Spa.

Lowlight

The one-hour drive from Phuket airport is tedious, especially after a flight from Australia, but can’t be avoided.

The writer and family stayed at their own expense.