Even by Japan’s high standards, this scenic train is exceptional

The train: Kintetsu Shimakaze, Japan

• Route Osaka-Namba to Toba (Ise-Shima)
• Distance 152 kilometres
• Operator Kintetsu
• Class Premium express
• Frequency Osaka to Ise-Shima, return, Wednesday to Monday; Kyoto to Ise-Shima, return, Thursday to Tuesday; Nagoya to Ise-Shima, return, Friday to Wednesday.

The journey

Osaka-Namba Station to Toba Station, a key jumping-off point for Ise-Shima National Park and Japan’s most sacred shrine, Ise Jingu. I’m onboard the Kintetsu Shimakaze (“Island Wind”) premium sightseeing express train heading to Kashikojima, with a scheduled duration of just under two hours at speeds up to 130mh/h (most of the journey is much slower than the top speed). This popular train is a show pony, not a workhorse, designed for sightseeing with ultra-comfortable, leather reclining seats, observation cars, large windows, an upscale dining car and luxurious private compartments.

Boarding

Osaka-Namba Station is enormous, encompassing several distinct stations. However, it’s also well-signposted, so I simply pay attention and follow the signs to the platform. I’ve pre-booked my premium express ticket on the Kintetsu website and have an assigned seat number. At the station, I purchase an additional basic fare ticket for 2770 yen ($24.40) from a vending machine (both tickets are required for this journey). The station has many cafes, bakeries, takeaway food and convenience stores. The train arrives right on time, in typical Japanese fashion.

The seat

I’m in car 2, seat 1C, a window seat facing in the direction of travel. It’s a 2-1 configuration, with 1C adjacent to 1B, and 1A on its own. Guests travelling in groups of three or four have the option to face each other by turning around one set of the B-C seats.

This is the most luxurious train seat I’ve ever seen in Japan. It feels more like I’m flying international business class: spacious and opulent in a soft leather that looks either pale green or yellow, depending on the light. There are buttons to move the headrest and footrest, an automatic recline, and a massage function built into the seat back. Every detail has been carefully considered: the fold-down tray table is adjustable, there’s a coat hook and handbag hook, each seat has its own power outlet and a button to control window blinds. There’s fast, free Wi-Fi, plus a Shimakaze Channel that livestreams the driver’s view.

Baggage

Passengers may bring up to two pieces of luggage free of charge, provided they weigh no more than 30 kilograms each and total dimensions of each don’t exceed 250 centimetres. There are free secure lockers, spacious overhead racks and integrated luggage storage spaces in every carriage.

Food + drink

The two-level cafe car is the heart of the refreshment action, designed to showcase the flavours of the Ise-Shima region. Counter seating offers panoramic views, while comfortable lounges allow for kicking back with a cuppa. Local dishes on the menu include Matsusaka beef curry (a prestigious wagyu brand), Ise lobster miso soup and a Shimakaze bento box featuring seasonal ingredients. As we’re in Japan, there’s also excellent beer, sake and hot tea available.

One more thing …

In-seat service is offered from a cart piled high with fresh bento boxes, coffee, cold drinks and souvenirs.

The price

¥7730 ($68) for premium or ¥5150 ($45) for a basic fare. Kintetsu is a private railway company, so the Japan Rail (JR) Pass isn’t valid on the Shimakaze sightseeing route. Book premium tickets online and in advance during peak seasons and on weekends. See kintetsu.co.jp

The verdict

This is a train you should ride at least once to the most sacred shrine region in Japan. My one complaint? I only wish the ride was hours longer.

Our rating out of five