Critics’ Pick of the Year: Ama

2 hours ago 2

A venue, hatted or not, that captures the moment, brings something special to our dining scene and is consistently on our critics’ hit-lists.

Surry Hills

Ama is a restaurant named for Rowena and Kate Chansiri’s Thai-Chinese grandmother, and grounded in memories of her beef noodle soup. The recipe, never recorded, was re-created by family in Bangkok and taken to Australia, where it became the breakout dish at the Chansiri’s suburban Kingsgrove cafe, Ickle.

Ama’s beef noodle soup.
Ama’s beef noodle soup.Jessica Hromas

Now, it’s served to ever-increasing lunch crowds in Surry Hills, alongside salted-plum cold brews and bowls of coconut milk flan drizzled in caramelised coffee molasses (using house-roasted specialty coffee, of course). And what could be more Sydney than that?

The Chansiri sisters are powerhouses of hands-on, women-led hospitality, and in sharing their warmth and family history with us, they demonstrate just how much the industry has to gain when everyone has a seat at the table.

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