Beyond the ‘It’ bag: The new winter accessories rules are designed for everyone

For decades, “It” bags and statement shoes were highly polished badges of honour, wedged into every ensemble without consideration of colour or co-ordination because they were on trend. That expensive fever dream has come to an end, with sales of luxury bags dropping by 10 per cent since their peak in 2023 according to consultancy Bain & Company.

That doesn’t mean people have stopped buying handbags; “It” items are being replaced by pieces that coordinate and complete a look rather than commandeer attention and require a personal security guard.

Catherine, Princess of Wales, Taylor Swift and Victoria Beckham are all champions of co-ordinated dressing where accessories tonally match the rest of the outfit. At Royal Ascot, Catherine was a burst of marigold yellow in a Roksanda dress with a matching hat, while her Gianvito Rossi heels co-ordinated with an ivory Anya Hindmarch clutch.

On a Monday night out in New York, Swift took a more casual approach to co-ordination, with cognac-coloured Gucci heels matching her handbag and the trim of her two-tone polo shirt from model Gigi Hadid’s label, Guest in Residence.

In winter, it’s easy to accomplish cool contrasts rather than clashes, with black or burgundy bags complementing the season’s subdued palette. Don’t mistake the matchy-matchy mood for quiet luxury. There’s room for playfulness while working within the colour guidelines of your complete outfit. A touch of texture with a furry scarf, shoes or collar can add visual interest, even when executed in black or cool greys.

Sunglasses are another approach to making co-ordination cool, completing an outfit when executed in the same colour. It works for Anna Wintour, who is rarely seen with a handbag. Although Wintour did carry a clutch to this year’s Tony Awards. The bag’s floral print matched her dress perfectly.

How to match your accessories

Near enough is good enough
This is not a wedding in the ’80s. You do not need to dye your shoes to match you dress. Tones don’t need to be exact. Biscuits with browns, tan and cognac create a sophisticated blend.

Blend fabrics
The colour family might be the same, but your fabric story can stretch relationships between wools, shiny leathers and smooth cottons. The right combination will stop your careful coordination from straying into the dangerous territory of corporate uniforms.

Neutral territory
If you’re struggling to find accessories that give your tonal colour story a happy ending, shift genres by bringing in neutral pieces. Nude shoes and bags work with lighter colours and black is best with wintry items.

Go rogue
Now that you know the rules, follow your mood. One day, you might feel like adding a pop of colour, so go for it. Perhaps an old “It” bag will fit the bill.

Fashion director: Penny McCarthy. Hair: Keiren Street. Make-up: Linda Jefferyes. Fashion assistant: Jade Myriam. Model: Zhenya at Scoop Management.

Stockists: Christensen Copenhagen; Christopher Esber; Gucci; Scanlan Theodore; Sir; Yu Mei; Zara.

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