A luxurious journey shows there’s no limit to the wonders of our neighbour

As we hover above the surface of Franz Josef Glacier, a fellow passenger points out a dark object in the distance. It looks like a bird sitting on the surface of the ice, or perhaps a rock; but then I realise with a shock that it’s another helicopter, much farther away than I’d imagined.

My sense of scale is completely out of whack in this strange frozen land – it seems an environment created not for humans, but for gods.

We land gently on the icefield at the head of the glacier, about 2000 metres above seal level, and step out onto the white expanse with its crunchy, granular ice contained by rocky crags. Our group is exhilarated, even amazed, to find ourselves in such a place.

New Zealand’s South Island, however, is crammed with such natural marvels, and this is just the second morning of the 13-day Sir Edmund Hillary Explorer Rail and Coach Tour, operated by Pounamu Tourism Group. The operator has close ties with the family of the legendary mountaineer, and we’ll be hearing more about that link once we reach Aoraki Mount Cook.

That’s several days and many modes of transport away. Though modern trains and coaches predominate, tour participants can also – depending on the excursions they choose – ride aboard a helicopter, a steam train, a steamship, a cruise boat, a jet boat, a ski plane, a tram, a quad bike and a ferry. It’s like an extended version of the movie Planes, Trains and Automobiles, but in a Kiwi accent and with spectacular scenery en route.

Christchurch to Greymouth

The tour began the day before at Christchurch railway station. The morning is dark and misty as our group of 69 people (mostly from Australia, with smatterings from the US and other countries) boards the TranzAlpine train.

As we roll out of the city, I get talking to Thom from Mississippi and Dennis from Canberra, both travelling solo. We swap tales about the great train trips we’ve experienced, and then suddenly the mist clears and we pass through a new world of blue skies, green fields and mountains looming in the distance.

Over the next few hours, the train slips through tunnels and across lofty bridges as the surrounding landscape becomes more rugged. After Arthur’s Pass, we roll down to Greymouth and the lush green landscape of the west coast.

Queenstown

After the helicopter flight from Franz Josef, a coach takes us to Queenstown. It’s a long day on the road, though on the “red coach” (we’re split across two vehicles), guide Dianne and driver Shayne act as a comedy duo that keeps us entertained and informed.

Our lunch stop is at Haast for a buffet meal. There will be many buffets on this trip (I consume a lot of pumpkin soup and butter chicken as a result), but Haast’s Hard Antler Bar stands out for its excellent shepherd’s pie. The drive is punctuated with scenic stops, such as the one at Thunder Creek Falls.

The highlight of the following day is a voyage on the steamboat TSS Earnslaw, which has sailed the waters of Lake Wakatipu for more than a century. Powered by coal, with its hissing engine visible from within, it heads gracefully across the lake to the historic farmstead at Walter Peak and a barbecue lunch.

Queenstown to Te Anau

In Kingston, south of Queenstown, we board the Kingston Flyer steam train, pulled by a gleaming black locomotive with red, gold and white trim. As it chugs past mountains and pastures along a heritage line, it is a lovely thing to behold. The carriages are charmingly historic; the first-class compartment is off an open-air walkway, a good spot from which to take photos without pesky reflections.

On the water from Te Anau

Te Anau is the base for either a voyage on to Milford Sound or, via an optional upgrade, Doubtful Sound. I opt for the latter, and it’s a multi-stage adventure. A boat takes our group first across Lake Manapouri, followed by a bus through rainforest over Wilmot Pass to the shores of Doubtful Sound. Here, a larger vessel heads out on the water for two and a half hours.

We’re deep into Fiordland National Park, its gorgeous landscape seemingly untouched by humans. Our vessel sails slowly along to the edge of the Tasman Sea, close by rocky islands dotted with seals. Later, the captain switches off the motor and invites us to take in the silence. It’s a special, calm moment.

Te Anau to Dunedin

There’s another long day aboard the coach that includes a visit to the Croydon Aviation Heritage Museum in Mandeville. The museum’s associated heritage railway owns K92, a steam locomotive that once pulled express passenger services between Christchurch and Dunedin and was then sunk in a local river to provide a barrier to erosion. After being dug out in 1985, it was gradually restored to its current gleaming state.

The interior of the adjacent aviation museum is equally impressive, packed with historic aircraft. I’m particularly taken with the replica of a 1910 aircraft built by local man Bert Pither, re-created a century later to see if it could really fly (it could).

Dunedin to Taieri Gorge

Dunedin is home to New Zealand’s most impressive railway station. Built in 1906 in the Flemish Renaissance style, it’s a tasteful riot of ceramic tiles, stained-glass windows, decorative mosaic floors and ornamental gardens. From here, Dunedin Railways runs rail excursions to Taieri Gorge.

We roll out of the city into green countryside, then pass through tunnels and over a high viaduct to reach the gorge. Our train then hugs steep wooded hillsides, with the Taieri River way below us. As we rattle onward, the gorge is highlighted with rocky outcrops. At the terminus, Pukerangi, we take in views and browse craft items made by locals, before returning the way we came.

In the afternoon, I join an add-on excursion to the Victorian-era mansion known as Larnach Castle (the creation of an Australian-born businessman who made good). It includes a tour of lavish period interiors, along with an excellent high tea.

Dunedin to Aoraki Mount Cook

The other Dunedin Railways route takes us north along the Pacific coast to the coastal town of Oamaru. It’s a delight, crammed with heritage buildings from its boom era in the 19th century. We have time to wander the Victorian Precinct, which plays host to an annual steampunk festival.

A few hours on the road then delivers us to Aoraki Mount Cook, New Zealand’s highest peak, standing at 3724 metres. On entering my room at the Hermitage Hotel, I’m stopped dead by the view: the room is orientated towards the snow-capped mountain, framed perfectly by the big window. The hotels on this tour are generally of a similar type – big, comfortable, group-friendly – but the Hermitage stands out for its quality and style.

In the evening of the next day, after an excellent dinner (the Hermitage’s buffet is also a cut above the rest), we assemble at the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre for an address by Sarah Hillary. The mountaineer’s daughter speaks movingly of her father and of the Himalayan Trust he founded. This is followed in the same venue by an optional planetarium show, with emphasis on the southern skies.

Christchurch to Wellington

Back in Christchurch, there’s a chartered tour aboard the city’s tourist tram; then the next day, our group boards the Coastal Pacific train north to Kaikoura, passing between ocean and mountains. There are add-on options of a whale-watching cruise or a 4WD tour of a farm, but I stay in town to enjoy the seaside vibe.

The following day combines memorable transport with eye-catching scenery as the Coastal Pacific takes us onwards to Picton, where we board the InterIslander ferry to Wellington. I spend time on the top deck as we pass through the Marlborough Sounds on a calm sunny day, admiring the sloping green grandeur.

There’ll be a tour to the national museum Te Papa on the final day, but otherwise this fascinating two-week tour draws to a close. On reflection, it seems there’s no limit to the wonders New Zealand can reveal – and no end, either, to the fascinating means of transport that take us to its splendid scenery.

THE DETAILS

TOUR
In 2026-27, the Sir Edmund Hillary Explorer Rail & Coach Tour will cover a 14-day itinerary, from $NZ8995 ($8340) a person. All accommodation is included, along with most meals and excursions. Additional excursions are available. Shorter itineraries are also offered in low season. See siredmundhillaryexplorer.com

FLY
Air New Zealand flies to Christchurch. See airnewzealand.com.au