A cosy stay on Australia’s ‘edge of the world’

The hotel

Strahan Village, Strahan, Tasmania

Check-in

To add to the relief that you’ve made it to this remote town on the rugged Tasmanian west coast – most likely via the twisty road that loops through Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park – there’s hot chocolate available in the lobby to be consumed while you’re checking in. Reception is separated from the restaurant and most of the hillside rooms by a staircase with 77 steps, so make sure you ask all of your necessary questions before ascending.

Strahan Village looks over the wild waterfront of the port and is across the road from the Gordon River Cruise terminal, where touring boats depart daily. It’s on the bend of Strahan’s main street, with the cottage and terrace rooms at street level and others far enough up the hill that you won’t hear foot traffic. It also guarantees epic views of the moody, quick-changing Macquarie Harbour, the second-largest natural harbour in Australia after Victoria’s Port Phillip. In 2021, the property was acquired by NRMA, so members get a 10 per cent discount.

The look

The property is a tale of two time periods, with modern renovations recently completed in Harbourview rooms and the onsite restaurant, View 42. In these spaces, expect a sophisticated if minimal aesthetic with nods to the area’s marine history: white shiplap ceilings, carpet with patterns resembling raindrop ripples on the sea’s surface, timber-framed windows and sage green linen throws that match the beech myrtle gently swaying outside. The unrenovated rooms are a bit more rustic and outdated, albeit clean and well-appointed, with eclectic timber furniture and butter-yellow walls.

The room

My premium Harbourview room is one of the 37 upgraded during the 2023 renovation. After a day out in the intense Strahan wind, I’m delighted by the electric fireplace, which faces an oversized couch in a sunken lounge area next to a wide balcony with two chairs. The harbour is visible from almost every corner of the room, including the king bed. The spacious bathroom has a relaxing rain showerhead and a heated towel rack – a necessity in a town that’s regularly afflicted by the notorious Roaring 40s. There’s also a massive vanity area with an excessive number of drawers. Rooms are serviced every second day.

Food + drink

The onsite restaurant, View 42, and its bar look out all the way across Long Bay at the mouth of Macquarie Harbour. It’s where you’ll find a $65-a-person all-you-can-eat buffet packed with roast lamb and pork (and their applicable vegetable-forward partners), four kinds of salads, smoked salmon and grilled calamari, a DIY caesar salad station and a smorgasbord of desserts. The buffet transitions to a full breakfast offering in the morning ($32), with a huge pot of spiced porridge and all the fry-up trimmings as centrepieces. Down the road, The Coffee Shack serves up strong coffee from a Burnie roastery and banana-date bread.

Out + about

It’s only right that you head out on the harbour at some point during your stay; a half-day Gordon River Cruise (see gordonrivercruises.com.au) out to Sarah Island and Heritage Landing is essential. (NRMA members get a discount on that, too.) Back on shore, visit the longest-running play in Australia, The Ship That Never Was, or experience a sawmill demonstration at the Huon Pine Mill. Over in Lettes Bay, on Lettes Bay Road, a resident’s street-side honesty box is stacked with some of the best honey and jam in the area.

The verdict

A cosy, comfortable and generous stay on the edge of the world.

Essentials

Premium Harbourview room from $280 a night. The property has two accessible rooms. Strahan Village, 41 Esplanade, Strahan, Tasmania. Phone: 1300 061 836. See strahanvillage.com.au

Strahan Village is a 3½-hour drive from Launceston or a four-hour, 15-minute drive from Hobart. If visiting in summer, stay up to date with fire warnings on the TasALERT app.

The Ship That Never Was runs nightly. Book in advance. See roundearth.com.au

Our rating out of five

★★★★

Highlight

Spectacular views over Macquarie Harbour and heaps of space to spread out in privacy.

Lowlight

If the Harbourview rooms are booked, your room might have you going back in time.

The writer stayed as a guest of Outback Spirit as part of its Tasmanian Wilderness Explorer tour. See outbackspirittours.com.au