2 weeks ago
3
September 3, 2025 — 12:00am
The airport
Helsinki International Airport (HEL), Finland
The flight
Finnair AY 6817 (operated by Iceland Air) from Helsinki to Reykjavik
The arrival
My flight arrives from Singapore at 5.30am. The airport is divided into two sections – one for passengers arriving from Schengen countries, and one for those arriving from non-Schengen countries. It’s a little confusing in practice. I arrive from non-Schengen Singapore and follow signs to our gate in the Schengen area. On the way, I spot the Finnair Lounge (I have access through my One World status) and try to enter, but I’m redirected to another lounge on the Schengen side. Eventually, I work out the direction and I’m channelled through immigration. There are few arrivals, so entry takes less than a couple of minutes. My passport is stamped and I go through the gate into the wonderful world of the Schengen half of the airport.
The look
Light, bright, beautiful and crafty, with parquet timber floors, hanging greenery, floor-to-ceiling windows and brightly coloured nooks and contemporary furniture.
Security
Helsinki airport has a useful website that allows you to check the queue time for security and immigration; it displays the estimated number of passengers per 30 minutes. The security process is similar to the new systems used in Australia. However, unlike in some Australian airports, laptops need to be taken out and screened separately.
Check-in
Because I am in transit, I skip the check-in process at this airport, having done it in Sydney. At the gate, there is an ominous scale to weigh hand luggage. There is an announcement advising those passengers with overweight carry-on to declare it for a free gate check. However, only one person does so, and bags are not weighed as we board.
Food + drink
There are good-looking cafes, bars and coffee bars, including Bubbles restaurant, Pier Zero across two levels, Bastard Burgers, Terracotta for Italian food, The Oak Barrel Irish Pub and a food court at gate 26. Water points are dotted throughout the terminal. Takeaway coffees are around €4 ($7.20), and sandwiches €6. My favourite is Relove Cafe, which sells high-end vintage clothing at Relove Second Hand, as well as homemade baked goods.
Retail therapy
Apart from the novel vintage clothing cafe, there are some interesting shops, including the obligatory Marimekko and Luhta Lifestyle Store, which sells all the hiking gear you forgot. Moomin Shop (there’s also a Moomin Cafe) has a selection of the cutest toys and the fascinating Ruohonjuuri pharmacy displays a tempting array of skincare products from small, local producers. There is a hair salon in the terminal if you need a haircut.
Passing time
I have a scheduled nine-hour layover at the airport, and it stretches closer to 10 hours. Luckily, I have access to Finnair’s Business Class Lounge, which is stylish and comfortable, although lacking anywhere to lie down.
I make occasional forays downstairs to look at the shops and stretch my legs. There is quite a hike to the end of the terminal. On one walk, I go as far as gate 12, where there is a small exchange library for books, which are mostly in Finnish, and where I discover a quiet area with day beds where people are happily catching up on sleep (if only I had known earlier). There are other areas with benches, work and charging stations and lounges which you can access for a fee. Wi-Fi throughout is free. The Space Hub is a paid-for private workspace like a space capsule. A children’s play area is at gate 20 and there’s a pet relief station for jet-setting pets at gate 21.
The verdict
I’d prefer a layover here to most airports I’ve visited. For a small airport, it’s beautiful, efficient, well-considered and has lots of quirky corners to explore.
Our rating out of five
★★★★
The writer was a guest of HX Hurtigruten Expeditions.
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