This two-in-one rail journey is a fabulous way to see Spain

The train: Renfe, Spain

• The route Madrid to Jaen via Cordoba
• Distance 294 kilometres
• Operator Renfe (renfe.com)
• Class Standard (formerly known as Economy)
• Frequency Renfe has six departures daily to Cordoba, with five direct trains to Jaen

The journey

Madrid to Jaen, a total travel time of about four hours. The first leg is on the AVE fast train from Madrid to Cordoba, and I then have a 19-minute window to connect with the regional train to Jaen. However, before we leave the outskirts of Madrid the train comes to a standstill. Several announcements are made, and I’m emailed an update in English that there is a delay, but overall, it’s not looking good for my 4.12pm connection. Delays don’t normally bother me, but the next train is at 9pm, and after a long-haul flight from Sydney, those extra five hours count. Fortunately, they hold the train in Jaen for me and just one other passenger.

Boarding

Madrid Puerta de Atocha has the incredible bones of a once-grand European train station, but ongoing construction makes it feel rundown, grubby and cluttered. The station has some good food options and a handful of basic retail outlets. The station has a two-tier departure and arrival section, with passengers departing needing to enter their platform from the upper level. In Spain, all bags are scanned through security regardless of size, which causes bottlenecks. Once through, it’s largely standing room only until the platform is open, and a scrimmage as passengers jostle to get their tickets scanned at the top of the travelator and haul their luggage aboard.

The seat

Standard class, and after being squeezed into the 3-4-3 configuration of a Boeing 777 for the last 24 hours, the seating area feels enormous, with an 18-inch (46-centimetre) seat width, and 32 inches (80 centimetres) to the seat in front. One of the less user-friendly elements of the AVE is that seats are marked with Paseo and Ventana (aisle and window) rather than handy graphics. Using the free on-board Wi-Fi, I Google “ventana” to ensure I don’t make a window seat faux pas. In the end, the seat next to me remains empty.

Baggage

According to Renfe, passengers are allowed to carry three pieces of hand luggage, up to 25 kilograms. However, no one in a uniform takes any interest in what anyone is carrying once it has been through security. I stash my big suitcase at the end of the coach, and my backpack overhead.

Food and drink

My carriage is located by the restaurant car, which is a hive of activity and very social. For the duration of the journey it’s filled with people chatting, drinking beer and ordering jamon sandwiches, which the staff toast up under the grill. While they smell good, I opt for a simple packet of crisps cooked in local olive oil and a soft drink.

The price

Prices fluctuate, but if booked well in advance (months ahead), Standard class tickets will cost €40 to €70 ($70 to $125). Cost for this trip was €52.40 ($95). Closer to the dates, the ticket price can go as high as €120 ($210).

One more thing

Madrid’s Atocha station is grubby, but an easy walk to a handful of the city’s best art museums: standouts include the Reina Sofia (museoreinasofia.es/en), which features Picasso’s Guernica, and the classics at the Prado (museodelprado.es/). While there are no left luggage facilities at the station, I stash mine in a local neighbourhood baggage storage for a few euros and use the morning before my afternoon train to squeeze some serious culture into my stopover.

The verdict

Despite the initial delay, I enjoy both the shiny, fast-train experience and the slower, more worn-in regional train. The Andalusian countryside outside is gorgeous, and travelling by train is the best way to get a feel for the region.

Our rating out of five

★★★★

The writer travelled as a guest of Tourism Espana. See spain.info

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