This modern railway hub is a European architectural marvel

The station

Berlin Hauptbahnhof, Berlin, Germany

The journey

Berlin to Krakow, Poland, aboard the express train Galicja; a journey of seven hours.

The departure

In the heart of the German capital, Berlin Hauptbahnhof (“main station”) occupies the site of a 19th-century station demolished after World War II. With several levels of railway lines and platforms stacked above each other and underground, the station, which opened in 2006, resembles the illustrations you used to see depicting cities of the future. Its dynamic glass-and-steel architecture is the perfect setting for an international rail journey; and it’s also well-connected to the rest of Berlin’s transport, with platforms serving the city’s S-Bahn and U-Bahn trains. There are also tram and bus stops at the station’s ground level.

Safety + security

Berlin Hauptbahnhof is a generally safe space, though subject to the nuisances commonly found in European areas popular with tourists, such as pickpocketing and luggage theft. As always, stay alert. If needed, luggage lockers are available in the station, and cost from €2 ($3.30) for two hours’ storage.

Food + drink

The station is well catered, containing some 30 food outlets ranging from the usual fast food brands to sit-down restaurants. To cite a few of the more interesting examples: Vincent Vegan serves plant-based food, Fatih Servet Doner provides delicious Turkish dishes; Slice It makes pizza; and Gosch dishes up North German-style seafood. For my money though, you can’t go past German bakeries for good-quality inexpensive sandwiches and tasty pretzels, and there are several of these marvellous institutions within the station. I’ve just had a big hotel breakfast so I’m not hungry, but I grab a coffee from the station’s outlet of Einstein Kaffee, part of a popular Berlin chain.

Retail therapy

Berlin Hauptbahnhof houses over two dozen retail outlets, many catering for the needs of passing travellers, including grocery stores and pharmacies. Shops with more interesting stock include Tee-Handels-Kontor Bremen (trading in specialty tea); Tom Tailor (fashion); Tamaris (shoes); and Discover Berlin (souvenirs). Perhaps the most fun retailer is the Ampelmann Shop, which sells items bearing the image of the jaunty green hatted man who acts as the “walk” signal at many of the city’s traffic lights, an inheritance from communist-era East Berlin.

Passing time

The station is in a great location for sightseeing. If there’s time to spare before your train, stow your luggage in a locker then head south across the River Spree. It’s an easy 15-minute walk to admire the exterior of the Reichstag building, the home of the German parliament, and beyond that is the iconic Brandenburg Gate. I’m fond of stepping into the nearby swish Hotel Adlon Kempinksi for a beer in its beautiful lobby bar, enjoying gentle piano music while admiring the impressive elephant fountain at its centre. Why not follow my example?

Boarding

Digital departure boards are dotted around the station which is highly accessible, with lifts and escalators connecting levels and platforms. If you need assistance, service staff can be found roaming in their burgundy uniforms, and at a ticket office on level 1. There’s also a tourist information centre at ground level. About 20 minutes before the departure time for my train I head up to Platform 12, and it arrives right on time to enable its scheduled 8.52am departure.

The verdict

Berlin Hauptbahnhof is a stunning example of modern railway architecture, a 21st-century response to the grand 19th-century stations for which Europe is so famous. Light-filled and well-designed, it’s the ideal location from which to embark on a long-distance train journey.

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

The writer travelled courtesy of Eurail, Visit Berlin, and Visit Malopolska.