This ‘gloriously unique’ wine bar is the kind of casual excellence Melbourne does so well

I have a new favourite word, gifted by the chefs who run the restaurant Masala y Maiz in Mexico City. “Mestizaje” is the term they use to describe their food, which incorporates influence from Indian, Mexican and East African cuisines; it encompasses the mixing of migrant tastes and traditions, creating new foodways that exist in more than one cultural context.

If we might borrow the word, mestizaje is the most exciting thing happening in Australia’s rapidly evolving culinary identity. And no restaurant better embodies the term than Manze, the four-year-old room in North Melbourne where chef Nagesh Seethiah serves the food of Mauritius.

Mauritius itself is a fine example of mestizaje – the small island nation’s population is descended from India, Africa, China and Europe, and its food is a reflection of that diversity. Seethiah takes that food and deftly puts it in a Melbourne context, making it snacky, wine-friendly, and adding ingredients from our own Australian pantry.

Apart from being gloriously unique – and I don’t use that word lightly – Manze has become both a draw to North Melbourne and a centre of community for the neighbourhood. As such, it’s hard to view Boire, the new wine bar Seethiah and co-owner Osman Faruqi opened directly across the street in August, as anything other than an extension of Manze. (Boire means “drink” in Mauritian; Manze means “eat”).

When it opened, Seethiah envisioned Manze as a wine bar, somewhere you might stop in for a glass and a few bites, but demand and logistics necessitated a more bookings-driven, organised approach. Boire is that original idea come to life, a classic narrow shopfront that feels lived-in and decidedly Manze-ish, with one large communal table, stools on the footpath, a pared-back food preparation area that barely even qualifies as a kitchen, and walls lined with wine.

There are a few cocktails – including an excellent martini – a few things to eat, and rather than providing a by-the-bottle wine list, you’re encouraged to browse the shelves and fridge, where you might have to dig around to see what’s on offer. Alternatively, you can ask Seethiah what he’s got – he loves wine, is happy to talk about it, and the setup is built for engagement: what do you like, what do you want to spend? We’ve got just the thing.

It’s possible to cobble together a full meal for two people here, but only by ordering the entire menu. It’s much more geared towards snacking: olives with turmeric and the pert sting of garlic; the beloved taro fritters from across the street sitting in a pool of zingy hot sauce.

There’s always some sort of raw fish situation. Recently, it’s been a sweet, fleshy Tasmania trumpeter, its light pink flesh brightened by sauce l’ail – a snappy Mauritian garlic sauce – and kumquat.

Seethiah is making beautiful use of this season’s asparagus, pairing them with house-made yoghurt and slivers of green almond. Quail is given a glossy lacquer of fermented pineapple underpinned by smoked chilli, its sticky glazed surface giving way to rosy tender meat.

During lunch hours, the options are simple: chicken sandwich or egg sandwich. You can add raw oysters if you want, or those taro fritters, but the main event is a round, crackly, soft in the centre roll, with charcoal chicken and pickled red onion, or egg salad, pickled beetroot, and green chilli mayo.

If Manze feels like North Melbourne’s best dinner party, Boire feels like its kitchen table and front porch. I’d want to hang out here just for the sunlight streaming in through antique windows, the connection to the street outside, and the company. That there are fun and delicious things to eat and drink feels like a bonus. It’s a wonderful expression of community, of the casual excellence of Melbourne dining, and yes, of the particular magic of mestizaje.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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