This coastal delight is just one hour from Tokyo, but feels a world away

A mere hour away from Tokyo, this charming coastal town is quickly climbing the ranks of must-visit destinations. You’ve likely seen pastel-hued images of adorable tram cars gliding alongside the sea, with Mount Fuji as a stunning backdrop, popping up on your social media feeds. But Kamakura has many more hidden treasures beyond these picturesque scenes.

Inspired by the enchanting tram photos I can’t seem to escape on social media, I’m visiting Kamakura on a day trip from Tokyo with Inside Japan, a unique travel company that tailors bespoke tours for busy, independent travellers. They take the hassle out of trip planning – your only job is to show up. And sometimes, even that can be tricky - like for me, a third-time visitor to Tokyo, who prides myself on being an expert in navigating the city’s labyrinthine transport system. Turns out, I’m not as savvy as I thought. After getting completely lost, I send a quick email to Inside Japan’s 24/7 concierge service and, thanks to their help, I’m back on track (albeit a bit late).

I’ve resisted the urge to do too much research on the town, leaving all the planning to Inside Japan. This way, my day is full of pleasant surprises. When I arrive, my guide is patiently waiting for me, an umbrella in hand, outside Hase-dera Temple. Danne, a Perth native living in Yokohama, works as a translator and will be translating the information from our Japanese guide.

But our guide isn’t just any ordinary guide. He’s a former television producer turned monk, and he delights in showing visitors around his new home. His stories are accompanied by a broad smile that mirrors the expressions of the large Jizo statues that greet us inside the temple.

Hase-dera is perched on a forested hill, and it feels particularly magical this morning as the rain softly pitter-patters against the leaves. The temple’s gardens are immaculate and said to represent heaven. I can only imagine how glorious they must look in June when its hydrangeas are in full bloom.

We follow our guide into a cave to escape the rain, a sacred space where people come to pray to 16 different gods, each representing an unusual aspect of life – ranging from alcohol consumption to traffic safety. Misaka-san, our guide, offers to light a candle for me, and I choose the god of “more money” – a popular choice, as evidenced by the number of molten candles left before it.

Climbing higher up the hillside, we come across a small army of tiny stone statues, each resembling a miniature human. They are carefully arranged in neat rows along a stone wall and nestled within a moss-covered garden, framed by gently flowing water. Every stone is inscribed with a name in Japanese, and it’s clear these statues hold deep significance. Misaka-san explains they were left by parents mourning the loss of a child, hoping for their rebirth into a joyful life. The moss, it is said, represents the nurturing of life.

Perhaps the best-kept secret of Hase-dera is the statue of Kannon. Housed in its own temple within the complex, this 9.18 metre gilded statue was discovered in the ocean, covered in barnacles. It’s thought to have drifted all the way from Nara Prefecture, where another Hase-dera temple is located. Misaka-san, ever enthusiastic, chants a Buddhist sutra for me and my wish for more money. As the chant ends, I silently wish I had asked for world peace instead.

We leave the temple and head to the cafe, which offers the best views in Kamakura. The town’s rooftops stretch out beneath us, with the ocean beyond, looking moody in the rain. The cafe serves a satisfying vegan mushroom pasta and matcha – perfect fuel for our afternoon exploring Kamakura’s other hidden treasures: a tranquil bamboo forest, home to a secluded tea house, a towering Great Buddha statue that survived the 1923 earthquake, and a lively shopping street where you can sample street food and sake.

At the end of the shopping street, we reach the tram station, where a final dose of “kawaii” awaits: a statue of a frog, symbolising a hope for visitors to return. So do I, little guy. So do I.

THE DETAILS

Fly
Qantas flies direct from Melbourne and Sydney to Tokyo daily, and from Brisbane three times a week.

Stay
Accommodation is organised by Inside Japan and I stayed at Groove Shinjuku, where rooms start at $340 per night.

The writer travelled as a guest of Inside Japan as part of their ‘Hidden Zen’ self-guided adventure.

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