This business class has one of the worst seats – and one of the best meals

The airline: Garuda Indonesia

• Route Jakarta to Melbourne, flight GA716
• Frequency Four non-stop flights a week (other days via Bali)
• Aircraft Airbus A330-200
• Class Business; seat 8G, aisle
• Flight time 6 hours 20 minutes (delayed five minutes, which technically counts as ‘on time’)

Checking in

Garuda offers some of the best business class airfares between Australia and Indonesia, so I bring low expectations as a first timer. The opening hurdle doesn’t fill me with confidence: online check-in won’t even deliver my boarding pass, but staff at priority check-in get that sorted. Garuda runs its own lounge at Soekarno–Hatta International Airport. It’s drab – I needn’t have rushed from the hotel.

Baggage

Pack 40 kilograms total (maximum 32 kilograms in a single bag) for business class, plus 15 kilograms for SkyTeam Elite and 20 kilograms for SkyTeam Elite Plus. Cabin baggage is a tight seven kilograms, but laptop bags, handbags, baby strollers and a long list of other items are excluded from that limit.

Loyalty scheme

GarudaMiles. As a SkyTeam Alliance member, Garuda can be also booked through programs like Virgin Atlantic Flying Club – a points partner of American Express in Australia. I spend 60,000 Flying Club points plus $US76.30 ($117) to book this flight. I’ve found my first bargain already, during school holidays to boot.

The seat

I’m channelling my inner Cher as I step aboard, turning back time to see a dated 2-2-2 seating layout. Garuda has a newer business class cabin on some of its A330s, but tonight’s flight draws the short straw. I sit in the centre (8G) to secure direct aisle access without any neighbourly interruptions. The seatbelt sign retires for the night, and so do I – for a solid five-hour snooze. My 183-centimetre frame is a perfect fit for the 74-inch (188-centimetre) bed, but the 21-inch (53-centimetre) cushion width is barely roomier than economy class. It dawns on me: this is the business class seat Qatar Airways had, two generations before Qsuite (and Qsuite launched in 2017).

Entertainment + tech

The entertainment system is clunky with very little content. There’s about a dozen new release movies and some other limited pickings. There’s an over-representation of horror films – not desirable ahead of a peaceful sleep. There’s AC power plus one USB-A socket. Perhaps that’s a cue to come prepared with your own device, as there’s no Wi-Fi on Garuda’s Airbus A330s either.

Service

What Garuda lacks in flashiness, it makes up for in service. We’re departing after midnight, so breakfast orders are confirmed before we leave the gate. While ordering, I make a passing comment that “I’ll try to get some sleep until then”. That same flight attendant wakes me to dine just one hour before landing, when most others have already eaten. Bliss.

Food

The blueberry pancakes are a real hit, served with strawberry compote, almond flakes and maple syrup. I can’t remember the last time I was excited by an airline breakfast like this, even in first class – but this dish is exceptional. It’s preceded by a well presented fruit plate with yoghurt and pastries. The onboard espresso machine is a godsend, and I make time for a second latte before landing.

Sustainability

Indonesia’s government – the majority owner of Garuda – voluntarily participates in an aviation scheme promoting carbon neutral growth (IOSA CORSIA). At the time of travel, GarudaMiles members could also redeem miles towards tree planting efforts in Duri Kosambi.

One more thing

Garuda offers surprise collectible trinkets on selected business class flights from Jakarta. A boxed souvenir plate arrives unprompted.

The price

From about $4700 return, business class Melbourne to Jakarta.**

The verdict

There’s something to be said about enjoying some of the best inflight food while sitting in one of the worst long-haul business class seats. But at the right price, I’d fly Garuda again – especially using points.

Our rating out of five

★★½

The writer flew at his own expense.

*For more information about air travel and sustainability, see iata.org

**Fares are based on those available for travel three months from the time of publication and subject to change.