The wealthy, overlooked Paris neighbourhood that’s surprisingly affordable

Paris is the city of love, but it’s also the city of compromise. First-timers stretch their budgets to stay near the major sights, while repeat visitors skip a few landmarks to live the more local experience in neighbourhoods like Le Marais. For me, the challenge is finding an apartment large enough for five people, yet close enough to the sights to please a 10-year-old whose list includes the Eiffel Tower, climbing the Arc de Triomphe and many, many baguettes.

So we compromise and land in a three-bedroom Airbnb in the 16th arrondissement, a wealthy, leafy part of Paris no one tells you about, which might explain why I feel like I’ve accidentally gatecrashed a neighbourhood party I wasn’t invited to.

On our first night, we stumble across Chez Emile, a neighbourhood bistro with a red awning, locals smoking at tiny tables, and the Eiffel Tower glinting in the background like it’s part of the decor. Strangely, it isn’t busy, given the view and the time – 9pm. A waiter flicks a fresh white cloth across three outdoor tables, and we order steak frites and duck confit, both €21 ($35), and both reasons to love the 16th.

The arrondissement stretches from the Arc de Triomphe to the Jardins du Trocadéro, hugging the River Seine and wrapping around Bois de Boulogne, a large park with lakes and trails. The neighbourhood, with fashion houses, grand Haussmann facades and wealthy residents, is known for its “old money” character. But beneath the polish of grand avenues and the Porsches lining the street, there’s a down-to-earth village vibe.

That feeling intensifies when walking around Passy on a Saturday morning. Its narrow, twisting streets feature covered markets and gourmet shops that display fruit and tinned fish like Hermès bags. One standout is La Grande Épicerie de Paris, a multi-level food hall where my godfather, an avid cook, acts like a kid in a candy store. He swoons over French mustards, gets lost in a room devoted to artisanal juices and syrups, and inspects tins in the foie gras section.

On the cobblestone street of Rue de l’Annonciation, there is an open-air market with more reasonably priced produce, where locals stroll with netted bags full of baguettes, fresh fruit and vegetables. However, there are also upmarket specialty shops, like Caviar Latian, a deli selling caviar tins and blinis with caviar and a glass of vodka to enjoy on site and, in the surrounding streets, there are luxury watch shops, designer boutiques and perfumeries.

The 16th is sometimes dismissed as “boring” for tourists, which is probably why it rarely makes “best neighbourhoods in Paris” lists. But it’s a matter of compromise. Sure, it’s quieter and more residential, but it’s also home to museums and galleries.

There’s the Musée Marmottan-Monet, a small museum that houses the world’s largest collection of Claude Monet’s paintings, donated by his son Michel, while the Palais de Tokyo and the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris sit side by side, offering a double hit of contemporary and modern art. A short walk from the Eiffel Tower is Le M. Musée du Vin, a wine museum inside former limestone quarries once used by 16th- and 17th-century friars from the Convent of Passy to store their barrels. You can book a tasting, stay for lunch, or sip a glass at the wine bar.

Taking up much of the arrondissement is Bois de Boulogne, the so-called “lungs of Paris,” where you’ll find locals jogging, biking and picnicking. Twice the size of New York’s Central Park, there are horse riding trails, ponds, waterfalls, hiking paths, rowboats for hire, Michelin restaurants (Le Pré Catelan and La Grande Cascade), and Roland Garros, home of the French Open. Art lovers should visit the Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton, the rooftop views from which are a highlight.

The 16th reveals itself in layers. Grand avenues and Michelin-starred restaurants, yes, but also quiet streets, gourmet markets and parks. We stop at Belen, an Argentinian-French bakery, for morning coffee and pastries, grab our daily baguettes from Bechu, and imagine the “well-off” residents in the art nouveau apartments. By the time we leave, we are all in agreement: “I think I could live here.”

THE DETAILS

FLY
Qantas flies to Paris via Singapore. See qantas.com.au

STAY
If splurging, stay at Brach Paris, a chic design hotel with Eiffel Tower views. Rooms from $1000 a night. See brachparis.com . Airbnb lists one- to three-bedroom apartments, starting from $250 a night, some with discounts on week-long stays. See airbnb.com.au

EAT
Bistro Chez Emile takes reservations. See bistro-chezemile.fr

PARK
Bois de Boulogne is impossible to explore in a single day. Focus on the Jardin d’Acclimatation, a family-friendly park with 42 rides and attractions, including electric boat rides. Book online in advance for cheaper tickets. See jardindacclimatation.fr/fr

The writer travelled at her own expense.