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The gentle crackle of a log fire. A beautifully brisk breeze to blow away the cobwebs. The blinding purity of a cape of white snow. The splendour of icy glaciers, snow-capped mountains and glistening, frozen lakes. The simple pleasure of a steaming cup of hot chocolate.
As Australia heads towards summer, with the prospect of yet another year of record temperatures, it’s only natural to start craving what we don’t have.
And while many of us may loathe the dreariness of an Australian winter, with its lashing grey rain and chill temperatures in a country somehow never ready for the turn of the seasons, there are other places where it’s an absolute delight.
So, this summer, forget chasing more sun. Instead, as “cool-cations” increasingly take off, take your pick from some of the most invigorating experiences in a wintry world.
JAPAN, CROWD-FREE
One of the most fabulous experiences a wintertime traveller can ever have is sitting in a steamy onsen in the Hokkaido capital of Sapporo, gazing at a fresh blanket of pristine snow all around you, then sinking further into the bath. There’s something wickedly wondrous about being glowing-warm when everyone else is pale and cold.
And there’s an added benefit to visiting Japan in its winter when we’re sweating in our summer. Japan’s popularity among tourists is now at record highs, with almost 37 million visitors last year – up 16 per cent from its previous peak before the pandemic – and more than a million Australians are expected to drop by this year.
That means its main sights can be crowded in our autumn (cherry-blossom season) and our spring, while its summer can be unpleasantly hot.
But their winter has far fewer crowds, with Kyoto cool and even sunny, and few tourists blocking the views of traditionally clad women parading around its temples and shrines. Then there’s the chance to climb Mount Fuji, check into idyllic ski resorts that are still sufficiently buzzy, ski, explore snow-dusted cities, and have fun at festivals that are far less tourist-choked, like the Sapporo Snow Festival with all its towering ice and snow sculptures and onsens.
The verdict Japan has many wonders all year round, but increasingly winter is a good time to visit to skip the worst of those growing crowds.
Essentials Japan is a great place for independent travel, with fast trains and often free internal flights when Japanese airlines are used for the international leg. But for organised trips, Wendy Wu offers a great selection, with her 15-day Journey Through Japan including Sapporo, from $13,380 a person. See wendywutours.com.au
FROM THE DECK IN NORWAY
One of the best ways to see the Norwegian fjords is from a cruise ship, watching from the verandah as glorious scenery, draped in mist, drifts past. Mountainsides shine with snow and the pristine waters glitter invitingly – if only they weren’t so cold.
This region is stunning all year round with the intense blue of the sea contrasting with the green hillsides, the waterfalls pounding the rocks and the snow dripping from towering peaks. But it’s never as magical as it is in winter.
Even in the depths of midwinter, taking out a kayak to get even closer to all that aching beauty is another must on any visit.
Norway’s longest and deepest fjord, Sognefjord, is one of the wintry world’s most stunning waterways. The 204-kilometre stretch nicknamed “King of the Fjords” takes in towering mountainsides through folds of deep fog, shivering up from the cobalt blue water.
See centuries-old wooden churches dotted across the landscape and clusters of little villages clinging to the slopes as the sun starts to rise.
It was here, in the summers, that the Vikings farmed the land, and went off to storm the rest of Europe in winter. Before they left, they’d scale these spectacular mountains to round up their goats, then carry them down on their shoulders to store them in warm barns along the lower reaches to ensure they’d survive.
It was a harsh place to eke out a living but visiting as a tourist is an absolute delight. Nestled at the end of the fjord is the small village of Skjolden, a picturesque taking-off point for kayak adventures, hikes through the Jotunheimen National Park, a look at the Nigardsbreen Glacier and an e-bike ride to the majestic Asafossen waterfall. And don’t forget to try fabulous Norwegian salmon, cod and Rakfisk on traditional Lefse flatbread.
There may be only a few hours of daylight, but they feel a treasured treat, with everything tinged in an eerie-blue winter light.
The verdict Norway has glorious winter landscapes, but it’s still pretty mild in the depths of the season due to the Gulf Stream.
Essentials Cruise company Holland America runs several cruises around the Norwegian fjords, often coupling them with Scotland’s Shetlands or Orkneys. A seven-day Norwegian Fjords & Scotland cruise is from $2079 a person. See hollandamerica.com
ICE-COOL IN THE ARCTIC
Head to the absolute north for the ultimate winter treat, one that’s at its best when we’re besieged by the cold and drizzle. June to September is the ideal time to visit as the sea ice breaks up, enabling you to travel further and see more with milder temperatures and a lot more wildlife on show.
The scenery is the greatest show in town, with more of those fabulous fjords plus massive glaciers, mountains and more, and more massive icebergs than you’d think possible. This ice-bound world is simply spectacular and brings home how critical it may be if everything, one day, melts and is no more.
The sights of the indigenous Inuit, and the wildlife, who survive this frozen world are thrilling. Lumbering polar bears, as if from another age, giant walrus, whales, reindeer, fiendishly furry musk ox, the snow-white Arctic fox … it’s reassuring to be on board a ship or a Zodiac to keep your distance.
There’s always the chance to catch the ghoulish green, and sometimes pink, blue and red, Northern Lights, too.
The verdict The perfect antidote to a gloomy Australian winter, or warm spring. Once seen, never forgotten.
Essentials The 13-day Viking expedition cruise Into The Northwest Passage takes in key sights such as the majestic landscapes of the Arctic Circle and Inuit towns with colourful wooden houses, and costs from $21,195. See vikingcruises.com.au
FESTIVE IN PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC
If there’s anything to get you into a fun Christmassy mood in the middle of our blazing summer, it’s jetting off to the Czech capital, Prague, and staying at (good king) Wenceslas Square.
It’s the city’s most important square – a former horse market in the Middle Ages – that has hosted all the big moments in the country’s history, when the Nazis marched in, the Soviet Red Army marched them out, the Soviets were forced to quit, and the jubilant celebration when the Czech Republic finally became free of them all.
Prague has an incredibly rich multi-layered history and there’s nothing like learning about it on a walking tour to all the major monuments, sights and Cold War remnants when there’s a distinct chill in the air, an atmospheric soft sprinkling of snow on the ground, and no gangs of young men on stag brawls.
If you catch the city’s famed Christmas markets in late November to early January, that adds yet another dimension to both Wenceslas Square and Old Town Square. Then, surrounded by grand, glowing architectural marvels, they’re colonised by dozens of wooden stalls, festooned with fairy lights; the perfect places, and time, to drink mulled wine, eat fried carp and braided sweet bread, and buy some traditionally made toys for kids back home.
The verdict Prague is one of the world’s most beautiful cities, with splendid buildings, awe-inspiring antiquities and, in winter, far fewer bawdy tourists to spoil the mood.
Essentials Catch a flight or a train in and take a walking tour with an expert (PhD and MA-level) guide, insightcities.com Hotels such as the Novotel Praha Wenceslas Square, close to all the major attractions, from $386 a night. See accor.com
STARRY NIGHTS ON NEW ZEALAND’S SOUTH ISLAND
Winter in New Zealand’s the South Island is unutterably romantic – magical snowy vistas, the shimmering Fox Glacier with a ruff of lush green rainforest at its base, clear skies for wishing on the stars and not too many other people.
It’s a time when it’s cheaper to visit, as well, and there tend to be lots of activities like skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing and even dogsledding, or spotting wildlife such as Fiordland crested penguins and dolphins. All can then be followed by hearty meals in gorgeous spots like Queenstown or Wanaka, relaxing in the glow of a real fire at a good hotel or rental apartment, with marshmallows to toast.
Not far away is Kaikoura, with baby seals playing in the creeks and waterfalls, and whales swimming past on their annual migration.
If you prefer to stay on the North Island, Rotorua becomes even more desirable in winter with the hot mud pools warming the soul as well as the body, and the sulphur fumes becoming much more bearable. Plus the rugby season will be kicking off in earnest.
The verdict New Zealand is a great all-year-round destination but is an outstanding winter warmer. And, unlike Australia, they heat their hotels and public spaces properly.
Essentials There are plenty of flights to Queenstown with Jetstar, Virgin Australia or Qantas, and hotels, like the Kamana Lakehouse, tend to be cheaper in winter, from $NZ256 ($225.85) a person. Make sure you catch an All Blacks game or, at the very least, visit the All Blacks Experience in Auckland, an immersive event where you learn about their history, triumphs and tragedies and have a chance to kick a goal (impossible!). See kamana.co.nz; experienceallblacks.com
STAR IN FROZEN, ANTARCTICA
The White Continent is in a world of its own, with the thickest of ice caps and the coldest temperatures on the globe. While the Arctic is like a frozen sea on the top of the world, the Antarctic is a vast, mysterious land mass on the bottom, the home of constant scientific exploration.
It’s also, of course, penguin central, with eight of the world’s 17 penguin species who are constantly scrabbling over the ice and snow in vast numbers, while blue whales, humpbacks and orcas cleave through the waters.
In the sky, there’ll be albatrosses and shearwaters – the petrels or “mutton birds” kept many newcomers alive on Sydney’s second colony of Norfolk Island when crops failed.
The verdict Of course, we’re on thinner ice environmentally all the time, but some of the icebergs here are up to 400 metres thick and are the largest moving objects on Earth.
Essentials Aurora Expeditions’ 12-day Spirit of Antarctica cruise includes a Drake Passage Crossing, Zodiac excursions, a polar plunge and a Cape Horn sailing, with lots of expert-led lectures and excursions to better appreciate the area. From $16,061 a person. See aurora-expeditions.com
COPENHAGEN, DENMARK, HEART OF HYGGE
There can be something transformational about snow. In the warmer months, the Danish capital, Copenhagen, doesn’t look terribly special. But in the winter, a carpet of snow somehow adds a note of enchantment to its storybook appeal.
It’s all those turreted castles, the coloured houses, Tivoli Gardens, the vibrant Christmas markets, the warm light spilling out of the shops and the open-air ice-skating rinks. The Danes do seem to do the juxtaposition of hot and cold extremely well: “embracing the chill”, they call it, complemented by the cosy contentment of “hygge”.
Join people ice-swimming in the harbour, then grab a hot chocolate for the afterglow. You can go for a long walk in the snow but follow it up with a lounge in a hot tub under the stars in one of the city’s many spas. And a wander around the royal palaces and ancient castles can be bookended by a fabulously hearty meal in a restaurant scene lauded by the world – think Noma.
In winter, the iconic Little Mermaid sculpture may look cold enough to freeze her brass tail off, but Australians can’t help but be warmed by the thought of one of their own commoners now ruling as Queen Mary.
The verdict Copenhagen can get cold and dark and windy in the winter, but it also becomes markedly cheaper, less crowded and more fun.
Essentials There are regular flights to Copenhagen with several airlines like Thai, via Bangkok, Emirates, via Dubai, and Virgin and Qatar via Doha. Bunnik tours offers a 22-day Scandinavian Discovery tour exploring Copenhagen, Stockholm, Bergen and Helsinki. From $19,495 a person. See Bunniktours.com.au
HOME COMFORTS IN HOBART, TASMANIA
Hobart can be cold, but it also has one of the most fabulous winter festivals in the world. Dark Mofo, created by the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), is an inspired addition to the city, and has helped, since its introduction in 2013, to put it even more on the world map.
The annual mid-winter arts and culture festival is a thrilling kaleidoscope of colour, music, food and late-night partying, and there’s nothing quite like it, and nowhere quite like its home city.
Its celebration of the winter solstice takes many forms, from headline-catching art installations and live music, to a huge winter feast, late-night partying and that infamous sunrise naked swim in the Derwent River.
The city remains lovely to see in winter, with snow on the peak of Kynanyi, overlooking the city, and cool, fresh temperatures.
The verdict A beautiful time to visit one of our national treasures, with all its historic buildings. Dark Mofo is a bonus.
Essentials There are plenty of flights in and out of Hobart, with Jetstar, Virgin Australia and Qantas. The Spirit of Tasmania ferry travels overnight between Geelong in Victoria and Devonport, Tasmania, and during the day September to April. Dark Mofo 2026 will take place in June, but the exact dates are yet to be released. See Darkmofo.net.au; Discovertasmania.com.au; Spiritoftasmania.com.au
LIKE CLOCKWORK IN GERMANY
Germany does winter so well, you sometimes wonder why anyone would visit in summer.
There’s an embarrassment of riches when it comes to choosing where to go for the cold season, with so many centres for winter sports, festive markets and lovely landscapes.
One frosty favourite, however, is the beautifully preserved Medieval old Bavarian town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, with its cobbled pathways, fabulously leaning old buildings still with timber frames, and magical clock tower. It has one of the world’s most beautiful Christmas markets, and is the home of the Christmas Museum – a shop that claims to have the largest selection of Christmas ornaments in the world.
Also in Bavaria, Nuremberg maintains it has one of the oldest Christmas markets with lots of traditional foods like Bratwurst and gingerbread and lashings of beer, while Dresden’s is also special – and old. Then there’s Berlin, Munich … so kuhl, both literally and figuratively.
The verdict Prepare for an overdose of Christmas fairytale sentimentality, done with style.
Essentials A nine-day guided tour of Christmas markets with Insight Vacations takes in markets in Germany, France and Austria, and includes plenty of free time to explore. From $4527 a person. See Insightvacations.com
OH CANADA
With the right warm clothing (down, fleece and synthetics), Canada can be a marvellous mecca for winter warriors. It’s a feast for the eyes, with snow-capped mountains, icy lakes, frozen waterfalls and frosted forests, as well as a thrilling base for all sorts of winter sports, like skiing and snowboarding, serviced by excellent resorts.
There can be big temperature changes between regions. Northern and eastern Canada are particularly cold while British Columbia is much milder.
But there’s often a great festive atmosphere around Christmas in the country, especially in Toronto, Vancouver and Quebec City, with lots of events and seasonal festivals.
The verdict It’s a big country with a big heart, and plenty to do. And the warmth of welcome manages to melt much of the winter chill.
Essentials A 22-day APT Rockies Odyssey and Alaska Cruise tour includes a Rocky Mountaineer rail journey, a cruise through the Inside Passage and two nights at the luxurious Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Cost $16,995 a person. See aptouring.com destinationcanada.com
AND THE FIVE WORST PLACES TO VISIT IN THEIR WINTER
Ireland’s west coast Yes, it can be pretty, yes, it can have few other tourists, but be prepared for bitterly cold temperatures, lashing rain and blustery wind.
Beijing, China The city can be so cold, windy and sometimes seems to be entirely populated by people with bad colds who splutter and sniffle and cough so constantly, you feel obliged to wear a mask.
Death Valley, California, US This desert area can surprise with sudden flash floods after storms in the surrounding mountains and can become dangerously cold in winter.
Edinburgh, Scotland The castle is splendid in all seasons but in winter, will you be able to see it through the fog? Biting winds come straight off the North Sea and there’s often heavy rain, too, which have seen the Hogmanay celebrations frequently cancelled.
Oymyakon, Russia This town in the north-east of the country is often named the coldest inhabited place on Earth, with the winter temperatures as low as minus 67.7 degrees which may put you off. Not to mention the ongoing war with Ukraine.
The writer travelled as a guest of Holland America hollandamerica.com, went on an Insight tour in Prague insightcities.com and stayed at the Novotel Praha Wenceslas Square, Prague. See accor.com
