Port guide: Tallinn, Estonia

This venerable trading city has one of Northern Europe’s most intact fortified old towns, but you’ll enjoy the contemporary buzz too.

Who goes there

Estonia’s attractive capital, easily accessible from port, makes it a staple stop on evermore popular Baltic cruises, and just about every mainstream cruise line – from budget to premium and luxury – calls in. While some Baltic cruises depart from ports such as Copenhagen and Stockholm, or occasionally Bergen or Oslo, many (especially those operated by bigger ships) homeport further afield in Amsterdam and especially Southampton, one of Europe’s busiest ports.

Sail on in

You have to be an early bird to enjoy sail-ins, since dawn in summer cracks over the Baltic before 5am, bringing you gently awake and having you ready for an early coffee on the deck in time for Tallinn to loom on the horizon. Warehouses and cranes stand on the foreshore, but behind rises the World Heritage old town in a heap of elegant spires, towers and rooftops. Consider it a pleasing, rather than exciting, arrival.

Berth rites

A new terminal sits on the waterfront, but you probably won’t pass through any of its buildings, as you may well disembark onto a concrete quay that leads straight to the area for coach-excursion and shuttle-bus pickups. You could walk into the old town, but if a free shuttle is offered hop on board: it saves a tedious 15-minute walk through the port and carparks.

Going ashore

Tallinn, formerly known as Reval, has Danish, Swedish, German and Russian influences, all reflected in the architecture (and cuisine) of one of Europe’s most intact old towns with a medieval core that sits atop a baroque outer ring. Get walking and enjoy the heritage. The two best churches are St Mary’s, which dangles with medieval coats-of-arms, and Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, ornate with Russian Orthodox decoration. KUMU art museum is excellent and focuses on Estonian works. To see how modern Estonians live, head to lively Rotermann Quarter and its repurposed factories.

Don’t miss

The Estonian Open-Air Museum is one of the best of its kind, bringing together 80 historical buildings relocated from across the country, such as a tavern, church, school, fire station, windmill and farmhouses. Staff in traditional costume demonstrate old crafts such as blacksmithing, and plenty of entertainment and activities will suit children. You can try traditional Estonian dishes too. You can get there on bus 21 from the train station.

Get active

Despite the unpredictable Baltic weather, Tallinn is a rather outdoorsy, active city with many cycle paths and outdoor gym equipment put to good use by passing joggers and children. You’d have to be a lover of cold-water swimming to appreciate the beaches, however. A 50-minute walk takes you to arty seaside neighbourhood Põhja-Tallinn via the Beeta Promenade.

Retail therapy

Tallinn’s old town isn’t yet overrun by tacky souvenir shops. Many of the attractive little boutiques sell genuine local items such as clothes from Estonian fashion designers, hand-knitted woollens, candles, and pots of honey and berry jams. As elsewhere in the Baltic, you’ll find plenty of amber jewellery, but Estonia itself has no natural amber. Good news for shoppers: Estonia uses the euro.

Further afield

Some cruise lines offer over 20 shore excursions from Tallinn, so you aren’t short of options. Consider skipping the old-town tours, as you can easily explore yourself, and take a half-day tour instead beyond the city. Among options are visits to Soviet-era bunkers, the Malusi Islands to spot seals, and Lahemaa National Park for hiking. History buffs will want to head to the Viimsi Peninsula for the open-air museum and Estonian War Museum.

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