September 23, 2025 — 2:50pm
This breezy, youthful city has interest and liveliness far beyond its modest size, making it one of Canada’s most enjoyable ports of call.
Who goes there
Halifax, on Canada’s east coast, is visited by more than 320,000 cruise passengers a year, and the number is increasing. The cruise season runs between April and November. Cruise lines that visit include Holland America, Norwegian, Royal Caribbean, Silversea and Viking, as well as local small-ship company Pearl Seas Cruises. Virgin Voyages made its inaugural visit this year. Ships are generally sailing New England and Canada itineraries, especially around the autumn foliage season. Cruises usually sail between Quebec City or Montreal, and Boston or New York.
Sail on in
The provincial capital of Nova Scotia claims to have the world’s second-largest natural harbour and you should certainly be on deck for the arrival as your ship slips past McNab’s Island into an increasingly narrowing channel. You’ll be able to spot old fortifications such as York Redoubt and Prince of Wales Tower, and you dock just short of Georges Island National Historic Site, ringed in gun batteries.
Berth rites
Halifax Seaport is efficient and getting further upgrades this year to make it even easier to navigate. Ships usually tie up at Pier 20 or Pier 22, both of which have small cruise terminals. You’ll find restaurants and souvenir shops and can walk into downtown Halifax.
Going ashore
Halifax was a crucial naval base for the British Empire and a port through which a million immigrants arrived in Canada. Find out about the former at various 18th-century fortifications and in the Historic Properties district, and the latter at the Canadian Museum of Immigration right beside Halifax Seaport. The Art Gallery of Nova Scotia is small but presents a lot of Canadian art. Call in at Halifax Central Library, nominated as one of the world’s most beautiful libraries, to admire the architecture and layout.
Don’t miss
Halifax has a few interesting museums but the best is the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, a 20-minute walk up the harbour from your cruise dock. The museum covers the history of seafaring and shipbuilding from colonial days to the Titanic and World War II convoys, and is surprisingly absorbing. You’ll also learn about the connections of the local Mi’kmaw people to the sea.
Get active
You can kayak, boat and do Segway tours in Halifax, and the waterfront boardwalk runs for four kilometres. Also near the cruise terminal is Point Pleasant Park, which has 39 kilometres of tracks that take you past ocean views, through forest and to historic sites. Alternatively, the short but steep climb up from the waterfront to the Citadel ought to get your heart rate going.
Best bites
Considering its modest size, Halifax has a vibrant dining scene, good coffeehouses and breweries, and a fine farmer’s market if you’re in port on a Saturday. Walk along the waterfront to the Queen’s Marque area, and you’ll find restaurant choices such as Drift for seafood (with an emphasis on dishes from Canada’s Maritime provinces), Cafe Lunette for French bistro food, and Darya for eastern Mediterranean cuisine. Peacock Wine Bar has been listed among Canada’s best restaurants.
Further afield
With even the biggest ships calling into Halifax, carrying thousands of passengers to keep happy, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to shore excursions. Fishing village Peggy’s Cove is a popular choice, usually combined with Fairview Lawn Cemetery where 121 victims of the Titanic disaster were laid to rest. Other tours will take you to Nova Scotian towns such as Lunenburg and Mahone Bay, or into the Annapolis Valley to visit cellar doors.
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Brian Johnston seemed destined to become a travel writer: he is an Irishman born in Nigeria and raised in Switzerland, who has lived in Britain and China and now calls Australia home.