NZ’s adventure capital is transforming into something else

Take a quick stroll through Queenstown and you might be forgiven for thinking nothing has changed in this beloved South Island getaway. The Southern Alps still dominate the horizon, fleece-clad locals still power-walk along the lakeshore in the early morning hours, and tourists still queue outside Fergburger, the cult hamburger joint.

But a subtle shift is under way. New Zealand’s adventure capital, known for catering to high-octane holidaymakers with a menu of paragliding and jetboating, skiing and mountain biking, is focusing on more gentle getaways via a swathe of new wellness experiences, sophisticated dining and luxe stays.

To make the most of this new Queenstown, it is essential to pack a swimsuit or two. It may be surprising that a place where temperatures rarely rise above temperate has several brand-new bathing experiences, but the al fresco onsen-style pools at Bathe by Aluume are wonderfully warming. There is a communal pool for the more social soakers as well as private pools for those who prefer a more secluded experience. And for those longing for a starlit session, the magnesium-enriched pools are open until 11pm.

Directly opposite, The Bathhouse offers a more elegant experience that includes a traditional sauna, a steam room and two infra-red saunas, as well as hot, cold and ambient pools.

And then there is the Watershed Floating Sauna on Lake Wakatipu, perfect for those who embrace extremity. After sweating it out, visitors cool off by jumping into the lake itself. Warning: those waters may look appealing, but they sit at a chilly 10 degrees all year round.

If you lean more towards luxury than cold lake plunges, Queenstown also has some new five-star openings. Just out of town, the Coronet Ridge Resort has a dramatic setting on the Shotover River and easy access to the ski fields, but it is ROKI Collection Queenstown, overlooking the lake, that dramatically dials up the town’s luxe levels, combining a classic luxury-lodge feel with an urban location.

Top lodge designer Virginia Fisher has given the interiors of this all-suite lodge a contemporary glamour, with gleaming surfaces of old-gold and mother-of-pearl in the public areas. Softer tones turn each suite into a cocoon: in mine, the soft blues and creams echo the colours of the cloud-scudded sky outside the window.

The service is immaculate from the moment you are picked up from the airport in a Land Rover Defender. House cars are available to drop you off at various activities, but there is plenty to keep you busy in-house, including a moody subterranean spa and two outstanding restaurants.

At fine-dining restaurant Elements, acclaimed chef Paul Froggatt’s imaginative degustation meals team the best seasonal produce with unexpected wine pairings. The more casual Terrace is the perfect setting for a long lunch overlooking the lake, although “casual” is a relative term. If you want a burger or a perfectly grilled piece of fish, they have you covered, but you can easily amp up the experience with a hit from the caviar trolley.

The region’s other don’t-miss culinary newcomer is Billy’s, the flagship restaurant at the nearby Ayrburn Estate, on the way out to Arrowtown. This 60-hectare farm is now the area’s go-to gourmet destination, home to a range of bars and restaurants, and even a local butcher.

Diners at Billy’s, which opened late last year within an old stone farmhouse, take their seats either in one of the opulently decorated rooms or in the light-filled glass conservatory. Whatever you order from the extensive modern Chinese menu, expect bold flavours with precise technique – and be sure to order some of the silky-skinned dumplings.

If you want to work off all that indulgence with a little exercise, another new venture is being eagerly awaited by locals. Opening later this year, the 32 kilometre Kawarau Gorge Cycle Trail will offer stunning views and two suspension bridge crossings as it winds its way along the river towards the Gibbston Valley. Depending on where you sit on the hardcore/softcore scale, once there, you can either stop and indulge in some wine tasting, or head on to connect with the Central Otago trails.

THE DETAILS

STAY
Sitting on the lakeshore near the heart of town. ROKI Collection Queenstown delivers luxury lodge vibes in the city centre. Rooms from $NZ1800 ($1475) a night, bed and breakfast. See roki-collection.com

FLY
Qantas, Virgin and Jetstar fly direct to Queenstown from Australian cities including Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane.

The writer travelled as a guest of Destination Queenstown (queenstown.co.nz) and Lake Wanaka Tourism (wanaka.co.nz).