‘Not a look any male should wear’: The style rule designer Christopher Esber lives by

Each week, we quiz a prominent person about their style and the inspiration behind it. Ahead, designer Christopher Esber.

Christopher Esber has made a signature of wearing black, but says he has a passion for orange and purple garments, too.Credit: Tim Ashton

How would you describe your style? Low key, with a focus on luxurious textiles.

What’s the oldest thing in your wardrobe? A pair of navy Lanvin wool tuxedo trousers I’ve had for 20 years.

And the most recent addition? A pair of black running shoes.

What are the three essential items in your wardrobe? Vintage Levi’s 501s, a good black T-shirt – I have a high-low mix, from COS to John Elliott – and a cashmere knit; I like The Row, The Elder Statesman or make my own.

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What would you wear … on a first date? A button-down shirt – I make a lot of my own shirts – in mercerised cotton so it’s got a bit of drape with denim and a sneaker. … on a plane? A cashmere knit, comfortable trousers and a slide. … on the red carpet? A classic trouser and sharp blazer with a crew-neck knit or T-shirt – I like the contrast of something casual under tailoring – and a Church’s loafer.

What’s your favourite fashion era? From 1996 to 1998, when fashion was veering away from the very minimal and towards more playfulness in colour and textiles. It was the start of something exciting. The 2000s were peak excess, and it’s the merging of these two periods – the minimal playing off the excess – that I find interesting.

Who are your favourite designers? I respect Miuccia Prada – she had her own aesthetic and stayed true to that vision for so many decades. Nicolas Ghesquière from his time at Balenciaga is also very inspiring.

What’s your fragrance of choice? It depends on the day and the season. Fueguia’s “Patagonian” perfumes are incredible.

Any go-to jewellery? A Tiffany & Co chain with a diamond and a little evil eye in Murano glass.

Can you remember a favourite outfit from when you were a child? A pair of overalls with decorative coloured buttons when I was about four.

What was your first fashion moment? When Zendaya wore a piece of ours – a black cotton taffeta ball gown with a crystal-encrusted rope detail – on the red carpet at the 2019 People’s Choice Awards; people really noticed the brand.

What’s on your wish list? A distressed brown leather bomber jacket. It’s impossible to find, so I might have to make it myself. I often reach a point where something feels like a necessity and it’s easier to do it myself.

Do you wear much colour? I have a strange palette in my wardrobe. I wear a lot of brown, black and navy but I also love orange and purple. There’s probably too much purple. It’s such a hated colour, but I like it. I don’t know why I’m so drawn to it.

Esber’s “collapsible” Prada sneakers are a wardrobe staple.

Is there something you’d never wear? So many things. A really slim pant is not a look any male should wear, whether it’s in jean form or tailoring.

Is there a current trend you like? Trends are tedious. If you follow them, you never win, you’re always too late. I’ve been lucky when what we’ve been doing organically happens to turn into a trend, or becomes part of a trend. For example, we’ve been doing flip-flops for a while, and now it’s peak flip-flop era.

What shoes do you wear most often? A cobalt-blue collapsible sneaker from Prada.

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Who is your style icon? Chloë Sevigny. She’s got an off-kilter cool way of putting pieces together, and she’s been doing it for decades. Whatever she wears, it’s always exciting, sexy and a new way of doing something.

What do you wear on a typical working day? Wool trousers or denim with a T-shirt, bomber jacket and sneakers.

What’s your favourite off-duty, casual Sunday look? Shorts, a cashmere knit and slides.

The Christopher Esber collection for Specsavers is available now.

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