Noisy and unsophisticated, but this Chinese bullet train beats flying

2 weeks ago 3

Justine Costigan

September 4, 2025 — 5:00am

The train: China Railway

The route Shanghai Hongqiao to Hong Kong West Kowloon
Distance 1632 km
Operator China Railway
Class First class
Frequency Daily from Shanghai Hongqiao station at 13.53. An overnight option departs at 20.15 on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

High-speed train at the platform of Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station.

The journey

Shanghai to Hong Kong on China Railway’s high-speed service, with a scheduled time of eight hours and three minutes in a 12-car G99 bullet train, hitting a top speed of 300km/h on the mainland.

Boarding

After a few days successfully navigating Shanghai’s efficient metro, I assume boarding an international train will be a breeze, but it’s a stressful beginning. I have an e-ticket, but China Highlights, one of several online booking platforms for foreigners, recommends getting a print-out too, so I join the queue at the ticket booth. After 20 minutes it’s finally my turn, and the officer tells me I don’t need a paper ticket after all.

I’ve now lost my early arrival advantage and have to run to the boarding gates. I find the right departure gate and take a spot at the end of the line, the minutes ticking by. When it’s finally my turn to scan my ticket, a red light flashes. The attendant looks at my ticket then sends me to another gate. This time my ticket is accepted, and I head down the escalator to the platform, clock the Hong Kong Kowloon sign, then walk/run past 10 carriages to first class. When I finally get to my seat it’s two minutes to departure.

The seat

First class is, strangely, a class below business class on the train.

The fast train’s most luxurious tickets are in business class, where spacious leather seats recline to a bed, and the ticket includes personal service, food and drinks, a screen and free Wi-Fi. This class sells out quickly, so I’m in the next class down, oddly named first class. The spotless carriage has a comfortable reclining seat with footrest, pull-out table, and USB and standard power points in a 2-2 configuration. Second class has a similar look and feel with 3-2 seating.

Baggage

I’m a convert to carry-on only, so my small bag easily fits in the space above my seat, but there’s also plenty of room in the luggage storage at the end of the carriage. I keep my small backpack under the seat in front of me.

Food and drink

The carriage attendant hands out complimentary bottles of water and a cute snack box with packets of crackers, spicy nuts and two types of sausage. A woman selling beautifully presented figs, strawberries and apples passes through every hour. At about 7pm other passengers are ordering meals. The options are noodles or rice. When they arrive I recognise the kind of instant noodles my kids used to eat after school. They’re hot, salty, soupy and hit the spot.

One more thing…

Future forward… Hong Kong West Kowloon Station.

The journey starts out peacefully but as the hours pass it becomes more boisterous. Additional passengers join the carriage and no one has their ear buds in, so there’s a cacophony of children’s video games, social media videos, loud conversation and some loud throat clearing and coughing. It’s not the hushed, sophisticated service I anticipated, but there are loads of scenery-and-people-watching possibilities.