1 month ago
12
The lodge: Suyian Lodge, Kenya
Check-in
Entering this imposing, stone-clad lodge through enormous wooden doors, and walking through to the layered terrace with its seemingly infinite views to the horizon, it occurs to me that I may have peaked a little too early in my first visit to Africa. Suyian Lodge, the latest luxury property from &Beyond, known for their impressive approach to sustainability, has been built on a privately held 18,000-hectare conservancy in Laikipia, a 45-minute flight north from Nairobi’s domestic airport. Set under a ridge on the escarpment, the lodge sits seamlessly in the landscape, its fluid lines, organic materials and rooftop planting belying its newness.
The conservancy, managed in partnership with global charity Space for Giants, borders four others (so animals move freely across unfenced areas). It’s home to ‘northern game’ such as gerenuk, Grevy’s zebra and reticulated giraffes as well as many more (one writer noted 70 different types on our outings). “Suyian”, meanwhile, means African wild dog in the local Samburu language – it’s a rare species found here alongside the elusive black leopard (despite our guide Denzol Thungutho’s concerted efforts, the leopard was the only animal we didn’t manage to spot).
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The design
The design of the main lodge and 14 suites is a collaboration between Cape Town-based Nicholas Plewman Architects, who specialise in remote and sensitive environments, and London and New York-based Michaelis Boyd Architects, who “prioritise nature as the cornerstone of every project”. As with another &Beyond property I visited in Bhutan, it’s all about treading lightly on the land and creating an unmistakable sense of place. Here, the granite outcrops, or kopjes, in front of the lodge inspired the extensive use of stone throughout, with suites that look from the outside like three big boulders (think a highly sophisticated Flintstones approach with a lot more landscaping, and plunge pools).
Inside the main building are a large and comfortable lounge with open fires (the temperature drops substantially in the evening), indoor/outdoor bar and restaurant, chef’s kitchen, a cellar room for private dinners, a library, an interactive map room showcasing local artefacts, and a shop full of beautiful Kenyan jewellery, homewares and gifts (I now have a soapstone wild dog on my coffee table at home). Outside is a courtyard with sunken fire pit and a pizza oven that provided welcome (pre-dinner) slices of margherita when we returned hungry from a sunset game drive. Separately there’s a main pool with alfresco dining area, a gym, yoga deck and a wellness centre with two treatment rooms, a steam room and cold plunge pool.
The look
Designers Fox Browne Creative, known for their bespoke approach and a 30-year relationship with &Beyond, have created an understated but indulgent feel, using an earthy palette and tactile materials such as leather, wood, wool and linen. The principles of Japanese wabi-sabi design – finding beauty in imperfection and impermanence – have been interpreted for the Kenyan location, with stone flooring, weathered timber furniture, local ceramics, richly coloured rugs and bronze details. The result is organic, fluid and luxurious.
The room
With almost 200 square metres of space including a private terrace with pool and outdoor shower, you could swing a very large panther in here. It’s so expansive, in fact, that I find myself constantly running late for meals or game drives, too busy trawling through three indoor areas (lounge, bedroom and bathroom – not to mention the entryway with its gumboots and sunhats, and the heartily stocked kitchen/cocktail nook) to find where I’ve left my bag, sunglasses or phone.
It’s all soothing, curved lines, including the spherical sleeping area with its floor-to-ceiling embroidered mosquito curtain, and the open-sided circular shower. The level of design detail is exceptional, from locally crafted raffia lamp shades and occasional tables down to the handmade red and blue beaded rings (to indicate hot or cold water) on the bronze taps.
In keeping with &Beyond’s sustainable approach, there’s no air-conditioning, just ceiling fans; along with the space and privacy of each suite, the overall effect is complete serenity. In fact, a favourite moment of the trip is an early morning outdoor shower, followed by a tranquil cup of tea on the terrace as the sun rises higher and the temperature begins to climb from its chilly start.
Food + drink
Expecting limited options in the middle of northern Kenya, I’m completely blown away by the food. Breakfasts (including a surprise “boma” one set up secretly by the staff in the middle of a field during a morning game drive), are lush affairs. Expect smoked trout and cream cheese omelette, African-spiced shakshuka or caramel banana pancakes.
Lunches are often served share-style; huge platters of salads and meats brought to the table on large trays, a signature &Beyond flourish. Impossible to detail the endless choices here but there might be sweetcorn fritters with tomato relish, sticky pork belly and roasted carrots with tahini yoghurt. The Ranchers Dinner set up in the homely chef’s kitchen (complete with Aga) is an array of roast chicken, lamb and local Suyian beef, with side dishes including kachumbari (tomato and onion salad) and mboga (vegetable) pilau. Seasonal ingredients are sourced from the nearby highlands and the lodge’s herb garden; everything tastes fresh, delicious and indulgent. Dessert is a comforting South African classic: malva pudding with amarula custard.
Out + about
The days assume a consistent rhythm: a sunrise game drive, a return to the lodge for breakfast, time to relax by the pool or in your suite during the heat of the day (while the animals are mostly sleeping), then a sunset game drive, sundowners and dinner. I’ve come from &Beyond’s Bateleur Camp in the Masai Mara, where tourism is long-established and the animals unconcerned about vehicles. Here we have to go more cautiously and the animals keep their distance, so a game drive feels like something of a treasure hunt, with less frequent sightings that are almost more thrilling as a result.
Because Suyian is a private conservancy, game walks, horseback safaris and night drives are all allowed (unlike in other national parks, which close at 6pm). We saddle up at the nearby stables and enjoy a gentle walk across the plateau (one of our group is not deemed competent enough to be let off a lead the entire way, which gives us plenty of laughs at her expense), but accomplished riders could have a less genteel ride. Later, back on the lodge’s spa deck, some hardy types try the cold plunge after the steam room. There are “Iced VoVo” references for one white-haired, pink-skinned writer as he emerges from the glacial water for the first time, but he seems converted by his icy baptism.
A visit to a remote village with traditional tribal dancing – the men in vibrant shukas with spears, the women wearing flat, beaded neckpieces, the kids exuberant – is a stirring highlight. There are more than 23 ethnic groups in the region, with major communities including the Kikuyu, who farm crops, and semi-nomadic pastoralists like the Samburu.
On our last evening, the lodge staff (from 14 different tribes) decide to put on “Swahili Night”, including us in an enchanting song and dance performance around the outdoor fire pit (just to be clear, it’s the smoke causing my eyes to water, not their warm embrace of us); then proudly preparing local dishes such as samaki kari (fish curry) and ngombe mishikaki (beef skewers) for our final dinner. Food has rarely tasted so good.
The verdict
I can’t put it any better than &Beyond’s CEO, Josh Kent: “What sets Suyian apart is not just what it offers, but how it feels. Suyian is our love letter to Kenya’s wild north — raw, remarkable and quietly transformative.” I hope I’m lucky enough to return one day.
Essentials
Prices per person from $US1500 ($2300) per night inclusive of accommodation, three meals daily, drinks, two safari activities per day (game drive and/or nature walk), and transfer to and from the airstrip. Maximum 31 guests at any time.
See andbeyond.com
Our score out of five
★★★★½
Highlight
The sense of space and peace combined with joyful staff who couldn’t do enough for us.
Lowlight
The elevated position of the lodge means that it can get a little windy at times.
The writer was a guest of &Beyond.
